Welsh costume doll D10

number : D10

D10 Front D10 reverse

Private collection

Costume: tall hat, cap, gown, skirt, petticoat, chemise, drawers, stockings and shoes. Carrying a baby in a red shawl.

Body: Composition doll with sleeping eyes

Hat: silk plush with wool crêpe under the brim

Cap: lace

Height: 40cm

General observations: This has a good Cardiganshire / Carmarthenshire type of gown in fabric very similar to that used for adult costume.

Date: mid 19th century?

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Composition doll dressed in tall hat, cap, bedgown, skirt, petticoat, chemise, drawers, stockings and shoes. Carrying a baby in a red shawl. Sleeping eyes.
measurements : approx 40cm tall

item : Hat
number : D10.1
component : Whole
construction : Black tall hat with slightly tapered crown, wide brim, covered in black plush, underside of brim covered in black wool crêpe. Glued and stitched construction. No hatband.
measurements : height of crown 8 cm, Circumference of crown base 19cm, circumfrence of crown top 14cm, Circumference of brim 41.5cm, depth of brim 4cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plush – long pile, used to cover crown sides and top and upper side of brim
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain weave ground with pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : black/brown
colour – weft : black/brown
colour – other : black pile
finish : brushed
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : assumed same as other plush fabrics found.

component : Fabric 2
construction : Black wook crêpe, used to line under brim
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/1 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : fulled and raised?
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : fine wool – assumed wool. Same as skirt

component : Stiffening Material 2
construction : Buckram used to form shape and visible inside hat crown.
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill left
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : starch/glue
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
colour – other : brown glue/starch
finish : starched
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : not analysed

component : Stiffening Material 2
construction : The brim is stiffened with cardboard/stiff paper – only visible from the x-ray – has a printed pattern and lettering.

component : Stitching 1
construction : Black stitching used to sew vertical seam in buckram crown side and top
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over-sewing
twist yarn : S,6Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : assumed cotton

component : Stitching 2
construction : Handstitching used to sew black crepe lining of brim to plush just under the edge of the brim
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not identified
twist yarn : S plyed
material – other : cotton
colour – other : dark brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : assumed cotton

component : Hat Pin
construction : Glass headed ferrous hat pin with blue surface to the metal. Used to attach hat through the hair
measurements : c.8 cm long
technique 1 : forged?
colour – other : blue surface to steel
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : more info on pin construction needed

item : Cap
number : D10.2
component : Whole
construction : Lace cap with with lace frills at sides and around back with inserted blue ribbon loops, blue ribbon bow at CB
measurements : CB to CF 13.5cm

component : Lace 1
construction : Fine hexagonal mesh with sprigs – assume machine made. Used to make main body of cap
pattern : sprigged
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : machine?
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed/white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Lace 2
construction : Narrow lace used to trim edges of main cap. Flat, ungathered across crown, double frill at sides and single frill at back
measurements : max. 2cm wide
pattern : scalloped edge, geometric pattern
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : bobbin?
twist yarn : not analysed
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white/undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Blue ribbon used for CB bow and looped ribbon between double rows of lace at sides
measurements : 1cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 80
thread count picks / rows per cm : 76
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : pale blue
colour – weft : pale blue
colour – other : n.a
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Very similar to others

component : Stitching
construction : Double thread used in hand running stitch around edge of cap
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Shawl
number : D10.3
component : Whole
construction : Red long nursing shawl used to wrap and secure baby to doll. Made from one piece of cloth with cut unfinished edges. Selvedge down visible short edge. Ends sewn to bedgown underneath to hold in place.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red flannel
measurements : width 13cm, length estimated at 80cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 13
thread count picks / rows per cm : 17
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Note – warp count is less than weft – a thicker warp than weft.

component : Stitching
construction : used to attach ends of shawl to bedgown – over- sewing stitch
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over-sewing
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : assume unmercerised cotton

item : Baby gown
number : D10.4
component : Whole
construction : Gown made up of one piece of plain cotton with one vertical CB(?) seam. All machine stitched. Trimmed with lace – same as on the cap D10.2 lace2.
measurements : c.24cm long, cricumference at hem – 23cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain cotton lawn
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
twist yarn : not analysed
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Badly discoloured at front and exposed areas – protected under shawl.

component : Lace trim
construction : Lace around hem – same as lace frill on cap D10.2
measurements : max. 2cm wide
pattern : scalloped edge, geometric pattern
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : bobbin?
twist yarn : not analysed
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white/undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Machine stitched throughout (except gathering stitch around neck
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight
twist yarn : S plyed
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white/undyed
finish : none?

item : Baby petticoat
number : D10.5
component : Whole
construction : Woollen petticoat made in one piece with CB seam. Cut scalloped hem. CB seam made with running stitch then pressed to one side and finished in herringbone stitch.
measurements : c. 18cm long, circumference at hem 14cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Wool flannel
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 14
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : loomstate
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Running stitch and herringbone stitch up CB
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running and herringbone stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : same as on cap

item : Baby’s cap
number : D10.6
component : Whole
construction : Baby’s cap made of one piece of black velvet wrapped around head, secured under chin with z plyed thread

component : Fabric 1
construction : Black velvet
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain? With pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
fibre – warp : silk?
fibre – warp : silk?
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
colour – other : black pile
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : not fully analysed.

component : Stitching
construction : Under chin stitching
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not identified
twist yarn : S plyed
material – other : cotton
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : ”

item : Apron
number : D10.7
component : Whole
construction : Apron of one piece of cloth, hem and sides machine stitched, with 0.5cm horizontal tuck, 2cm from hem. Gathered into waistband of same fabric. Waistband has short ties which are stitched to bedgown at side back. Selvedge down right hand side
measurements : length 17cm, width at hem 20.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Woven cotton
pattern : check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z (both white and brown)
twist weft : S (white), Z (brown)
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white and brown,
colour – weft : white and brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching1
construction : Machine stitching at hems and sides,
technique 2 : machine sewn
thread count ends / wales per cm : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching1
construction : Hand stitched (running stitch) tuck and waistband.
technique 2 : hand sewn
thread count ends / wales per cm : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Bedgown
number : D10.8
component : Whole
construction : Bedgown made up of back bodice in one piece, two front bodice with 1.5cm overlap at CF. Slight V neck line but high. Long sleeves and back skirt which starts at side, made in one piece gathered into bodice at waist. Corners of back tail/skirt tied together at CB with black silk ribbon. Machine and hand stitched.
measurements : neck to waist at CB 10cm, Waist to hem CB 19

component : Fabric 1
construction : Wool flannel
pattern : Warp stripe made up of 8 black ends, 2 red ends.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 9
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : black and red
colour – weft : black
finish : loomstate
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine stitching – quite tight and small stitches
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Used to tie corners of tail to CB
measurements : 1.8cm wide
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Skirt
number : D10.9
component : Whole
construction : Skirt made of one piece of black cloth with CB seam, gathered at waist – no waistband, all machine stitched, except for running/gathering stitch at waist
measurements : CB – 19cm, circumference at hem – 46cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Black fine wool crêpe used for whole
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/1 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : fulled and raised
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Assumed wool – same as hat brim lining.

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine stiching for general construction
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : S,3Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Running and gathering stitch at waist
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running and gathering stitch
twist yarn : S,3Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Underskirt
number : D10.10
component : Whole
construction : Flannel underskirt made in one piece with CB flat seam (machine stitched), hem is one turn and herringbone stitched. Selvedge at CB seam
measurements : CB – 17cm, circumference at hem

component : Fabric 1
construction : Cream wool flannel
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 13
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : cream
colour – weft : cream
finish : fulled but not raised
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine stitching
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Herringbone at hem
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : herringbone
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 3
construction : Thick thread used for running stitch to gather waist
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : S,3Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : cream
finish : lustrous
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Chemise
number : D10.11
component : Whole
construction : Plain cotton chemised, ‘A’ line cut. Machine stitched throughout with flat seams at sides and machine stitched hem

component : Fabric
construction : Plain cotton – same as baby’s gown?
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
twist yarn : not analysed
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Machine stitching to all seams and hem
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Drawers
number : D10.12
component : Whole
construction : Pair of drawers, gathered and secured to just below knee

component : Fabric
construction : Plain cotton – same as baby’s gown?
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
twist yarn : not analysed
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Machine stitching throughout
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Shoes
number : D10.13
component : Whole
construction : Pair of black canvas shoes with orange soles, brass eyelets at sides, ‘silver’ buckles at CF.
measurements : ?

component : Fabric 1
construction : Twill weave black cotton canvas
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : starched?
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Leather
construction : leather soles

item : Basket
number : D10.15
component : Whole
construction : Small round basket containing piece of cotton cloth as in baby robe, chemise and drawers, folded and secured to bottom of basket.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain cotton – same as baby’s gown?
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
twist yarn : not analysed
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Stockings
number : D10.13
component : Whole
construction : Black stockings with CB seam

component : Fabric
construction : Cotton? fine knitted jersey fabric
technique 1 : knitted, machine
technique 2 : stocking
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
twist yarn : ?
fibre – warp : ?
fibre – warp : ?
material – other : cotton?
colour – other : black
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : very fine cotton knit – could almost be silk? But too dull , not lustrous enough.

item : Neckerchief
number : D10.16
component : Whole
construction : Plain neckerchief tucked around neck and into top of bodice

component : Fabric 1
construction : Fine silk
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no