Welsh costume doll D11

number: D11

D11 Brecon doll 016a D11 reverse

Brecon Museum : 740.2`

Costume: hat, cap, shawl, gown, apron, skirt, underskirt, chemise, socks, shoes, separate sleeves and carrying a pocket, basket, knitting and an umbrella.

Body: bisque head, leather body, bisque lower arms and lower legs

Hat: silk plush

Cap: net with lace trim

General observations: The gown is of broad red stripes on a dark-blue background and is tied at the back. It has short sleeves which have a black ribbon at the end, which is folded up, very much like an adult costume.

This might have been made for a competition (like the one from Ceredigion Museum, dated 1937) or for a display – there are metal pins projecting through the shoes.

Height : about 40 cms

Date: probably early to mid 20th century

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Doll with bisque head, leather body, bisque lower arms and lower legs, wearing hat, cap, shawl, bedgown, apron, skirt, underskirt, chemise, socks, shoes, separate sleeves, carrying a basket and knitting and an umbrella?.

item : Hat
number : D11.1
component : Whole
construction : Tall hat with tapered crown, hatband, and elastic chin strap. Main construction with adhesive
measurements : height of crown 8 cm, Circumference of crown base 17.5cm, circumfrence of crown top 10cm, Circumference of brim 38cm, depth of brim 3.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Black plush, adhered to stiffening material
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain? with napped pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not analsyed
twist weft : not analysed
fibre – warp : cotton?
fibre – warp : cotton?
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
colour – other : black pile
finish : napped
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stiffening Material
construction : Cardboard – visible in crown sides, crown top and edge of brim

component : Tape
construction : Bias cut tape used to secure cardboard together – a small section visible at brim/crown joint.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton?
fibre – warp : cotton?
colour – warp : cream
colour – weft : cream
finish : starched
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : difficcult to access – possibly linen?

component : Hatband
construction : Ribbed ribbon – black
measurements : 2.2cm wide
pattern : ribbed
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : not counted
twist weft : Z,2S,2I
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Handstitching to secure cross over ends of hat band to body of hat.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : cross stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton?
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Elastic chin strap
construction : Black elastic – perished, sewn and stuck to hat – later addition

component : Stitching
construction : Used to attach elastic – later addition
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not identified
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton?
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Adhesive
construction : Animal glue? Used to secure hatband stitching and elastic in place – later addition

item : Cap
number : D11.2
component : Whole
construction : Cap made of hexagonal mesh net with emboirdered sprigs. Made in one piece, gathered at crown and pleated into back of neck. Trimmed with lace and pale blue ribbon around back frill and bows at front sides. Secured to doll’s head with a hat pin (?)

component : Fabric 1
construction : Lace – hexagonal mesh with flower sprigs
pattern : hexagonal mesh
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : machine
twist yarn : ?
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Embroidery
construction : Flower sprigs embroidered in thick cotton thread onto lace mesh
pattern : flowers
technique 1 : embroidered
technique 2 : satin stitch
twist yarn : ?
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Lace
construction : Lace trim around whole cap
measurements : 2cm wide
pattern : repeating
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : machine?
twist yarn : ?
material – other : cotton
colour – other : cream
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Pale blue silk ribbon with picot edging, also used to tie under chin – very fragmentary
measurements : 0.7cm wide
pattern : with picot edge
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : pale blue
colour – weft : pale blue
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used in construction and for sewing on ribbons –
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not identified
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : cotton
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Apron
number : D11.3
component : Whole
construction : Apron of black and white check fabric made in one piece, hemmed on all sides with 1cm wide horizontal tuck 4cm from lower edge, pleated into waist which is bound with black silk ribbon to form waistband and ties tied in bow at front RHS. All hand stitched
measurements : height 21cm width at hem 17cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Black and white check fabric
pattern : check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12 in black wool, white not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12 in black wool, white not counted
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : black wool, white cotton
fibre – warp : black wool, white cotton
colour – warp : Repeat – 12 black wool, 2 white cotton, 12 black wool, 4 white cotton
colour – weft : Repeat – 15 black wool, 6 white, 2 black, 2 white, 2 black, 6 white, 15 black, 2 white, 2 black, 2 white, 2 black 2 white.
general observations : have assumed warp is hanging vertically – difficult to distinguish.

component : Waistband Tape
construction : Wide ribbon used as waistband and ties
measurements : 3.5cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
twist yarn : ?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching
construction : not identified

item : Shawl
number : D11.4
component : Whole
construction : Light brown triangular shoulder shawl crossed right over left at front and tucked into apron waistband. Pinned to doll body. Tasselled border applied around 2 short sides. Two pins into body of doll at CB lower point and one pin running horizontally at back of neck used to hold folds in place.
measurements : approximately 30cm square

component : Fabric 1
construction : Main fabric of shawl – light brown
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill, left
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 36
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : light brown
colour – weft : light brown
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : very fine twill weave wool – good quality.

component : Braid
construction : brocade woven braid in green and pink
measurements : 2.5cm wide
pattern : floral
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : complex, brocade
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : 19
twist warp : ?
twist weft : made of of many z spun threads to form a thick weft yarn
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : green and pink
colour – weft : green
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : very degraded and not fully analysed

component : Fringe
construction : brown knotted fringe applied around edge – not fully analysed
material – other : silk
colour – other : brown
general observations : not fully analysed

component : Stitching 1
construction : running stitch holding fringe and braid in place
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z
material – other : silk
colour – other : biege
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Skirt
number : D11.5
component : Whole
construction : Striped skirt made in two sections – front and back A-line cut, machine stitched side seams pressed open and flat. Hand stitched tuck 4cm from hem, hem hand stitched, no waistband – just stitched to petticoat underneath. Sewn pleats into waist – opening to waist not visible. Hem 1.8cm, machine sewn. Hole cut in skirt at front left just below waist.
measurements : CB 22cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Weft-striped fabric used for whole skirt. The pink in the weft stripe is a fancy boucle yarn.
pattern : weft stripe / banded
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 10
thread count picks / rows per cm : c.10
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : navy blue wool, pink wool, white cotton
colour – warp : navy blue
colour – weft : weft stripe repeat navy blue (1.5cm), 3 pink, 4 white cotton, 3 pink, navy blue (1.5cm), 6 pink.
finish : raised but not calendered like bedgown.
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : raised surface prevents counting of blue weft

component : Stitching 1
construction : Assume machine sewing and threads same as bedgown.
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Bedgown
number : D11.6
component : Whole
construction : Bedgown made up 2 bodice fronts overlapping at CF right over left, shoulder seams on shoulder, CF cut on straight grain but angled to overlap. Pinned in place. Long set-in sleeves but turned back to elbow, cuffs bound with black ribbon. Back bodice cut in one piece. Bodices sewn over the skirt part with rough oversew stitch. Back skirt panels made of two pieces with front edges cut on straight grain and CB cut on cross – as an A -line. Front corners pinned together a CB with one pin. CB seam machine stitched pressed open and flat. CB waist – inverted box pleat into waist
measurements : CB 34cm, CB skirt 21cm, each back skirt panel 19cm wide at hem

component : Fabric 1
construction : Weft-striped heavy flannel
pattern : striped, banded
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : c.8
thread count picks / rows per cm : c.8
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool black and red. White cotton almost invisible stripe.
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : repeat – black (1.2cm), 4 red, 2 black, 2 red, 2 black, 4 red, black (1.2cm), 1 cream, 2 red, 2 black, 2 red, 1 cream
finish : fulled, raised, and calenderd/pressed.
microscopic analysis? : yes – cotton
general observations : fulling prevents counting of black weft

component : Fabric 2
construction : used to bind cuffs
measurements : 1cm wide visible
pattern : cut on cross
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Appears to be a bias cut strip – from larger piece of cloth.

component : Stitching 1
construction : machine stitching at CB, and to attach silk bindings to turned back cuffs
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : hand stitching to attach bedgown skirt to back bodice
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over sewing
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Sleeves
number : D11.7
component : Whole
construction : Pair of sleeves from elbow to cuff, pleats into elbow, top edge folded over to face and hemmed at upper edge, cuffs trimmed with black ribbon and black ribbon bows at elbow.
measurements : c. 7cm long outside arm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Green/khaki flannel, balanced weave
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill right
thread count ends / wales per cm : c28
thread count picks / rows per cm : c28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : khaki
colour – weft : khaki
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : cannot tell which is warp direction – balanced weave.

component : Ribbon
construction : used to bind cuffs – not fully analysed, appears to be plain weave with supplementary thicker warp to give vertical stripe.

component : Stitching 1
construction : not analysed

item : Underskirt
number : D11.8
component : Whole
construction : Underskirt of one piece – side seam at RHS, hem 1.5cm. Pleated into waist although cannot access top to see if there is a waistband – assume not if compared with skirt.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Weft-striped flannel / linsey wolsey, banded.
pattern : stripe, banded
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 14
thread count picks / rows per cm : variable due to thickness of weft
twist warp : Z
twist weft : red – Z,2S, blue Z, white cotton Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : blue and red – wool, white cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : repeat – 18 blue, 2 white, 3 red, 2 white, 2 blue, 2 white, 2 red, 2 white, 2 blue, 2 white, 3 red, 2 white, 18 blue, 6 white, 18 blue, 2 white, 2 red, 2 white, 2 blue, 2 white, 2 red, 2 white, 18 blue, 6 white, 18 blue.
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Assume same as bedgown
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Chemise
number : D11.9
component : Whole
construction : Chemise of plain cotton, only visible at neckline, construction unclear – not analysed

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain weave cotton
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
twist yarn : ?
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Pocket
number : D11.10
component : Whole
construction : Pocket hanging on ties – explains hole cut in left side of front skirt. Hangs between skirt and underskirt
measurements : 10 x 7 cm

component : Fabric
construction : cream cotton calico used for whole
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Tape
construction : Length of tape used to tie pocket around the waist.
measurements : c.1.5 cm wide
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : not analysed – plain india style tape.

item : Stockings
number : D11.11
component : Whole
construction : Pair of black knitted stockings with 3 white stripes around the top, just below a band of ribbing. Shaped by decreasing down the CB to form calf shape. Toe not visible
measurements : c 10 cm long

component : Knitting
construction : Black knitting with rib around top and 3 single row stripes. Decreasing down CB.
pattern : stripes around top
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : stocking and 1/1 ribbed around top
thread count ends / wales per cm : 4
thread count picks / rows per cm : 7
twist yarn : ?
material – other : wool
colour – other : black and white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Shoes
number : D11.12
component : Whole
construction : Black patent shoes with round toe. Upper cut in one piece with one seam at CB heel, silver-coloured metal buckle, silk bows, and tied to doll with cord wound around the ankle.
measurements : 5.5cm length

component : Uppers
construction : Black patent fabric with plain weave cotton ground – not analysed. Small cut piece of this fabric underneath buckle.
pattern : shiny
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : cotton?
fibre – warp : cotton?
material – other : pitch-like coating
colour – warp : ?
colour – weft : ?
colour – other : black, gloss
finish : coated
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Tape
construction : Narrrow tape or strip cut from larger piece, used to bind top edge of upper – or could it be the main upper fabric turned back on itself? – more analysis needed
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : cotton?
fibre – warp : cotton?
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
finish : unidentified coating
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Buckle
construction : Metal buckle at CF

component : Ribbon
construction : Silk ribbon formed into a bow at CF on top of buckle
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Seam up centre back, hand sewn? Not accessible. And stitches used to attach buckle and bow, not analysed.

component : Laces
construction : A cord used to attach shoe to body. Middle of cord attached to inside of shoe then wound around ankle several times and tied.
twist yarn : Z plyed
material – other : cotton?
colour – other : brown

item : Knitting and needles
number : D11.13
component : Whole
construction : Piece of circular knitting on three needles with ball of wool attached to one needle

item : Knitting and needles
number : D11.13
component : Knitting
construction : Circular knitting in grey and white – not analysed

item : Knitting and needles
number : D11.13
component : Needles
construction : 3 metal needles – size?

item : Basket
number : D11.14
component : Whole
construction : Small round basket with looped handle on LH arm, stitched to sleeve. Basket contains small piece of carded wool

item : Umbrella
number : D11.15
component : Whole
construction : Umbrella made of black cotton, machine stitched, gathered and bound to a wooden stick with black thread. Sewn to bedgown

component : Fabric
construction : Black cotton – not analsysed

component : Stick
construction : Wood – stick, the size of a cocktail stick with bend end to form a handle

component : Stitching
construction : Machine stitched – assume same as all machine stitching in D11, plus some hand sewing to attach to bedgown.
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch

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