Welsh costume doll D12

number : D12

D12.3 bedgown front d12.5 chemise

Hereford Museum: 3289

Costume: Set of clothing including hat, apron, skirt, chemise, bedgown, shawl, neckerchief, shoes, stockings.

Body: None.

Hat: silk plush

General observations: The bedgown is a very simple rectangular construction, gathered at the neck and with triangular gores sewn into the armpits.

Provenance and history: Given to the donor’s mother when a child by a Welsh woman.

Date: mid to late 19th century ?

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Set of clothing including: hat, apron, skirt, chemise, bedgown, shawl, neckerchief, shoes, stockings. No body.

item : Hat
number : D12.1
component : Whole
construction : Slightly tapered stove-pipe with flat crown, hatband with bow, brim finished in narrow tape, woven lining (fabric 2).
measurements : Height of crown: 9cm; circumference of crown tip: 24cm; circumference of crown base: 28cm; Depth of brim: 4cm.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Outer covering of plush
pattern : None
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : Plain weave with pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : 40 approx.
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26 approx.
twist warp : not identified
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : silk?
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : black pile
finish : brushed

component : Fabric 2
construction : Lining, made in two pieces: crown tip & crown sides. Side piece seamed and hemmed, and gathered slightly into crown tip. Hem contains drawstring. Not fixed to interior of hat.
measurements : Crown tip circumference: 23cm. Height of crown sides: 7.5cm
pattern : windowpane check featuring weft silk sateen stripes and warp twill stripes on a plain weave ground.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/1 warp-faced left hand twill; 6 end weft-faced sateen
thread count ends / wales per cm : 34
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool, silk
fibre – warp : wool, silk
colour – warp : Warp stripe repeat: 10 red wool, 10 black wool, 4 green wool, 10 black wool, 10 red wool, 10 black wool, 4 white silk, 190 black wool
colour – weft : Weft stripe repeat: 10 red silk, 10 brown wool, 4 green silk, 10 brown wool, 10 red silk, 10 brown wool, 4 white silk, 134 brown wool
finish : glazed
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : stitching
construction : Hand running stitch at seams and hem on lining
technique 1 : Hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

component : drawstring cord
construction : Cord inserted through hem of lining, with loose ends intended for drawing and tying.
technique 1 : plait?
thread count ends / wales per cm :
twist yarn : Z,6Z
material – other : bast
colour – other : undyed
finish : glazed

component : Stiffening Material
construction : Buckram used to stiffen brim and lower part of the vertical sides, onto which the plush is adhered.
pattern : None
technique 1 : woven
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : stiffened with adhesive, probably animal-based
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed

component : Stiffening Material 2
construction : Card used to stiffen brim, crown and tip, adhered onto interior side of buckram
pattern : None
material – other : card/paper
colour – other : blue

component : Hatband
construction : Decorative, shaped band/ribbon, adhered around base of crown, tied with a bow
measurements : 2.7cm wide at widest points
pattern : repeating floral design
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : stamped velvet with adhered quatrefoil motif in centre of each flower
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : not identified
twist weft : not identified
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : black pile
finish : embossed & with applied decoration

component : Binding tape
construction : Narrow tape/braid binding edge of brim
measurements : 0.5cm
pattern : None
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not identified
twist weft : not identified
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black

component : Stitching
construction : Hand slip-stitching securing binding tape to brim
technique 1 : Hand sewn
technique 2 : slip-stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Apron
number : D12.2
component : Whole
construction : Check pattern wool apron made from one rectangular piece of cloth, selvages down both sides, horizontal 2cm pleat across entire width; gathered into narrow waistband/ties. Hemmed lower edge.
measurements : CF 32cm, width at hem 57.2cm, waist 13cm, ties 54cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Blue/green/brown/white check flannel
measurements : 1.5cm check repeat
pattern : check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/1 left hand twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 22
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : Warp repeat: 8 white, 12 brown, 8 white, 12 blue
colour – weft : Weft repeat: 6 white, 12 blue, 6 white, 12 green
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 2
construction : A narrow green tape, doubled at waist to secure apron skirt, with tie extensions.
measurements : 1.3 x 54cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill herringbone
thread count ends / wales per cm : 38
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26
twist warp : Z,2S
twist weft : Z,2S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : olive green
colour – weft : olive green
finish : glazed
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Hand sewn with slip/running stitches throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip and running stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Bedgown
number : D12.3
component : Whole
construction : CF opening bedgown in linsey-wolsey formed as follows: four rectangles make up front, two either side. Back formed from one rectangle. Sleeves are each one rectangle, with inserted diamond-shaped gussets underarm. Two further gussets inserted on shoulders at neck. Neck gathered into self-fabric binding. Front neck opening is secured with a circular brass pin with six green glass ‘gems’. French seams.
measurements : CF 47cm. Width at hem 87.5cm. Neck edge to sleeve end 15cm.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red and brown weft stripe linsey-wolsey hanging vertically. The selvage has been used creatively to form a horizontal feature across the front.
measurements : 6mm repeat
pattern : 2mm red stripe, 4mm brown stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 11
thread count picks / rows per cm : 17
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : Linen
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : weft repeat: 2 red, 6 brown
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : Occasional flaws in the weave e.g. the weft sequence has 3 red instead of 2. At the selvage 3 ends of blue wool are visible.

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand sewn throughout with slip stitching; probable hand-spun yarn
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : Linen
colour – other : undyed
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : very similar to yarn used for warp.

component : Stitching 2
construction : Hand sewn slip stitching around sleeve ends; machine-spun yarn, probably repair.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : possibly mercerised
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Skirt
number : D12.4
component : Whole
construction : Skirt made from two pieces of linsey-wolsey, with CF and CB seams, slashed at waist side for access; gathered into waistband/ties. Bound lower edge with narrow tape as waistband (not hemmed). 1.6cm decorative horizontal pleat towards lower edge. French seams.
measurements : CB/CF 33cm; hem circumference 109.5cm; waistband inc. ties: 70cm
general observations : Construction & materials used almost identical to D12.3

component : Fabric 1
construction : Brown/red/blue/white weft stripe linsey-wolsey hanging vertically
measurements : 1.3cm repeat
pattern : 1mm red, 5mm brown, 1mm blue, 2mm white, 1mm blue, 5mm brown stripe repeat.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : bast
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : weft repeat: 2 red, 6 brown, 2 blue, 4 white, 2 blue, 6 brown.
general observations : Frequent flaws in the weft direction

component : Waistband tape
construction : Narrow braid used at waist and lower edge as binding.
measurements : 2cm wide
pattern : herringbone
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill herringbone
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : Z,2S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand-sewn throughout with slip-stitching inc. seams, these also finished with herringbone stitch.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch & herringbone stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : bast
colour – other : undyed
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Stitching used to secure braid to lower edge
technique 1 : Hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : light brown
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Chemise
number : D12.5
component : Whole
construction : White cotton short-sleeved shift-style chemise made in two pieces, front and back. Boat neck.
measurements : CF 38.5cm; CB 39.5cm; neck edge to sleeve end 7cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : white cotton
pattern : None
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 23
thread count picks / rows per cm : 27
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : bleached white
colour – weft : bleached white
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand stitched throughout
technique 1 : Hand sewn
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Shawl
number : D12.6
component : Whole
construction : A rectangle of flannel with fringe on two sides
measurements : 35x35cm inc. fringe

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red and white check flannel, cut from a larger piece, with check pattern in centre and check/stripe pattern on two sides. Fringe has been plaited.
measurements : 1.2cm check repeat through body of fabric; 8cm stripe/check pattern on fringed edges, producing a houndstooth check where these intersect
pattern : check/stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : (14 red, 4 white, 14 r, (4w, 4r) x 5, 4w,) x2, then 20r, 4w repeated.
colour – weft : (14 red, 4 white, 14 r, (4w, 4r) x 5, 4w,) x2, then 20r, 4w repeated.
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Neckerchief
number : D12.7
component : Whole
construction : Rectangle of printed cotton, with selvage on one side and three hemmed edges.
measurements : 38 x 31cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Two-colour purple on white print in a small floral design
pattern : floral
technique 1 : printed on woven cloth
technique 2 : plain weave
thread count ends / wales per cm : 34
thread count picks / rows per cm : 34
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
colour – other : 2 shades of purple in the print
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Hand slip-stitching around hems
technique 1 : Hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Stockings
number : D12.8
component : Whole
construction : Two fully-fashioned stockings with turned heels, knitted in stocking stitch with a 1/1 rib at the top.
measurements : Top to toe 20cm; circumference around top 14cm.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Unpatterned, knitted
pattern : None
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : stocking stitch, 1/1 rib
thread count ends / wales per cm : 4.5
thread count picks / rows per cm : 5.5
twist yarn : S,2Z
material – other : wool
colour – other : white
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Shoes
number : D12.9
component : Whole
construction : Polished leather shoes with square toes, leather soles, lined, finished with narrow tape piping, replacement cords pass through eyelets finished with button thread. Stamped inside with maker’s mark, difficult to decipher. Also stamped on sole with Irish trefoil and other symbols.
measurements : Sole: 9cm

component : Upper
construction : Black polished leather
pattern : shiny
material – other : leather
colour – other : black
finish : polished
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 1
construction : lining
pattern : None
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill herringbone
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not identified
twist weft : not identified
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 2
construction : lining, sole
pattern : None
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : satin
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not identified
twist weft : not identified
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 3
construction : Tape edging
measurements : 5mm wide
pattern : None
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : repp
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : Z
twist weft : not identified
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
microscopic analysis? : no

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