Welsh costume doll 2

D2 Male doll

D1 pair

Pembrokeshire Museum, no catalogue number

Summary

This is one of a pair, male and female, both in a display case.

Costume: wearing hat, coat, waistcoat, breeches, stockings and shoes. He is partner to D1.

Body: Wooden painted head with rounded chest in stuffed cloth body. The neck is broken. Earthenware lower arms and hands

Height: c.52cm (including hat and shoes)

General observations: Male Welsh costume dolls are extremely rare. The clothes of this example are similar to the few descriptions and illustrations that survive of Welsh men. Men from all classes wore a similar style of best clothes throughout England and Wales (jacket, waistcoat, breeches, stockings and tall hat). It is likely that the fabric of Welsh men’s clothes was locally produced wool. The bright coloured waistcoat and blue socks might be typical. The hat is probably proportionately too large for this doll: it is made of woven fabric but an adult hat would have been of felt or covered in silk (the hat of the woman’s in this couple is covered in silk).

Date: late 19th century? The cuffs and trouser waistband tape are machine stitched.

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Male Doll wearing hat, coat, waistcoat, breeches, stockings and shoes. He is partner to D1. Wooden painted head with rounded chest in stuffed cloth body. The neck is broken. Earthenware lower arms and hands
measurments : Height c.52cm (including hat and shoes)

item : Hat
number : D2.1
component : Whole
construction : Tall hat with slightly tapered crown, ribbon hatband with buckle. Binding to edge of brim. Attached to head with corroded pin – not removed so inside not examined.
measurments : Height of crown 7cm, Circumference of crown tip 18cm, Circumference of crown base 21.5cm, Circumference of brim 38cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Outer covering of black fabric.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : c.18
thread count picks / rows per cm : c.12
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – weft : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : raised/napped
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Similar fabric to D1 red petticoat D1.6 fabric 1- thread count difficult to establish due to brushed finish and accessibility – have compared with D1.6

component : Stiffening material
construction : Miliner’s Buckram?
technique 1 : ?
technique 2 : ?
material – other : mixed / cellulose?
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Not visible

component : Hatband
construction : Ribbon folded along its length to 1.5cm wide, tied as hatband with false bow at right hand side secured with two pronged buckle
measurments : 2.5cm wide (1″)
pattern : ribbed
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 60?
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18, 2 threads per pick
twist warp : I ?
twist weft : Z,4S
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – weft : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Ribbon
construction : Ribbon used to bind edge of brim, folded around edge of brim and stitched in place through fabric 1 and stiffening
measurments : 1cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 50?
thread count picks / rows per cm : 15
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – weft : silk?
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Hand stitched throughout – visible at seam of vertical crown sides
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch and oversewing
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Inner Hatband
construction : Leather hatband stitched around inside of crown. Only just visible.
measurments : ?
material – other : leather
colour – other : brown/natural
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Could be a complete lining – hat is quite tight onto head removal might dislodge hair

component : Tape
construction : Misc. tape stuck to back of head – may have been part of hat?
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – weft : cotton
colour – warp : black/brown
colour – weft : black/brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : not sure what this is – not fully analysed.

component : Buckle
construction : Two-pronged buckle
measurments : 1.4 x 1.4cm
technique 1 : forged?
material – other : iron
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Coat
number : D2.2
component : Whole
construction : Double-breasted cut-away coat. 4 brass buttons down both fronts, collar, long set in sleeves turned back at cuff, front and back self-lined, pocket flaps to side, 3 brass buttons to back waist, one button on each tail sewn through pleats. Tails separate from waist but pinned together at lower centre back, machine stitched
measurments : Centre back 25cm, centre back to waist/top of tails 10cm, sleeve seam 14cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Brown flannel / linsey-wolsey.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : twill – herringbone
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 14-16
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – weft : wool
colour – warp : beige
colour – weft : brown
finish : fulled and raised
microscopic analysis? : none
general observations : Same as Fabric 1 In D 1.4 but with beige warp not grey/blue

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine stitching in all seams and top stitching around collar and down both fronts.
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black/navy
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : machine stitching is plain straight stitch with separate upper and lower threads.

component : Stitching 2
construction : Hand herringbone stitch down right hand CB hem of tail, same thread used to stitch on buttons
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : herringbone and to sew on buttons
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black/navy
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Buttons
construction : Flat brass buttons with brass looped shanks
measurements : 1.5cm diameter, shank – 0.5cm high
material – other : brass

component : Stiffening
construction : Both fronts stiffened – unknown identification and extent of this material
pattern : ?
technique 1 : ?
technique 2 : ?
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
twist yarn : ?
fibre – warp : ?
fibre – weft : ?
material – other : ?
colour – warp : ?
colour – weft : ?
colour – other : ?
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Waistcoat
number : D2.3
component : Whole
construction : Single breasted waistcoat with 5 buttons, stand up collar, false pocket flaps. Pinned closed and through to body

component : Fabric 1
construction : Horizontal (warp) striped fabric used for fronts
measurments : Stripe repeat – 1cm – corresponds to 1cm thread count of 44 ends per cm
pattern : Warp stripe made up of 8 ends plain weave folowed by a 3/1 twill 4 coloured stripe made up of following – 4 green, 4 blue, 24 black, 4 red ends.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain with twill stripe
thread count ends / wales per cm : 44
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26
twist warp : plain weave warp – same as weft, S,2Z wool warp Z spun
twist weft : S,2Z
fibre – warp : cotton and wool
fibre – weft : cotton
colour – warp : Biege cotton plain weave warp. Red, black, blue and green wool twill warp stripes.
colour – weft : Biege
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Fabric 2
construction : plain fabric used for back and for lining front panels
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 18
thread count picks / rows per cm : 15
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – weft : cotton
colour – warp : biege / undyed
colour – weft : biege / undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Sttiching 1
construction : Used to sew on buttons
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : cross stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white/undyed/bleached
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Used in general hand sewn construction
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not identified
twist yarn : Z,?S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown/black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Buttons
construction : 5 mother of pearl buttons, top one slightly different design to lower four – has wider border/rim. All have four holes
measurments : 1cm diameter
material – other : mother of pearl
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Breeches
number : D2.4
component : Whole
construction : Pair of knee length breeches, tapered to knee, open fly, two pleats to front, two pleats to back into waistband

component : Fabric 1
construction : Corduroy used for whole
measurments : 4 ridges of cordoroy per cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : cut pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : 30
twist warp : Z,2S
twist weft : Z,2S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – weft : cotton
colour – warp : biege
colour – weft : biege
colour – other : biege pile
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : 4 ridges per cm, cellulose degradation on front makes biege look brown – compare with back of breeches

component : Tape
construction : Used as waistband
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain / ribbed
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : 19
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
twist yarn : ?
fibre – warp : cotton?
fibre – weft : cotton?
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : not fully examined

component : Stitching 1
construction : machine stitching at waistband
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,?S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : used to stitch on buttons
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : cross stitch
twist yarn : Z,?S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Buttons
construction : Two buttons on each side of breeches at knee, LHS has two matching, RHS has two not matching
measurments : 1cm diameter
colour – warp : mother of pearl
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Neckerchief
number : D2.5
component : Whole
construction : Red sateen neckerchief held in place with a large spherical headed pin

component : Fabric 1
construction : Sateen
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : satin
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – weft : cotton
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Pin
construction : Spherical headed pin
material – other : brass
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Cuffs
number : D2.6
component : Whole
construction : White cuffs extending part way up the sleeve of the coat, machine stitched

component : Fabric 1
construction : Glazed cotton
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – weft : cotton
colour – warp : white/undyed/bleached
colour – weft : white/undyed/bleached
finish : starched
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : could see deposits of starch/stiffening material within weave of fabric under microscope. Same fabric as chemise in D1.7

component : Stitching 1
construction : Seams and hem machine stitched
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : ?
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white/undyed/bleached
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Stockings
number : D2.7
component : Whole
construction : Pair of stockings extending up beneath breeches
measurments : 9.5cm from top of shoe to breeches
general observations : compare with D1.12

component : Knitting
construction : knitting – the same as knitting in D1.12
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : stocking
thread count ends / wales per cm : 4
thread count picks / rows per cm : 5
twist yarn : Z,4S
material – other : wool
colour – other : pale blue
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Shoes
number : D2.8
component : Whole
construction : Pair of leather shoes, upper made in two parts, leather sole with block heel, black ribbon bow fastening. Same as D.11
measurments : 7.5cm long

component : Leather
construction : Uppers and soles
material – other : leather
colour – other : black
finish : waxed/polished?
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Used to bind top edge and to form a bow
measurments : 1cm wide
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 48
thread count picks / rows per cm : 32
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – weft : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : weighted?
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Thread
construction : Used to tie shoes at front
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no