Welsh costume doll 3

number : D3

D3 Front

Tenby Museum :1983-1820

Costume: Long red hooded cap, printed bedgown, striped apron, skirt, underskirts, and carrying a basket of knitting.

Body: Bisque head with sleeping eyes using a lead weight. Legs and arms probably of wood; head is loosely attached. Two wires across the body connect the head and legs to the body, although legs are detached.

Height: without hat c.46cm

Hat: silk plush

General observations: There is nothing particularly Welsh about the costume other than the hat. A similar red cloak is found on dolls of this date from other parts of Britain (and see D20) Compare this doll with D8. This doll has suffered from severe light damage to apron and gown.

Provenance and History: Made by Mrs Betsy Watkins, Caretaker of Caernarfon Castle at the time of the Investiture of the Prince of Wales, 1911. Two others were made at the same time, present location unknown. One miniature version was presented to Lloyd George, the other was sent to Buckingham Palace.

Date: 19th century with early 20th century additions.

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

item : Hat
number : D3.1
component : Whole
construction : Tall hat with slightly tapered crown, ribbon hatband with bow, gathered inner hatband made of Fabric 1.
measurments : Height of crown 10.8cm, Circumference of crown tip 22cm, Circumference of crown base 28cm, Circumference of brim 63cm, Depth of brim 5.5cm
general observations : Inside hat – ink mark “575 / 2

component : Fabric 1
construction : Outer covering of plush
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : ? With napped pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : 56
thread count picks / rows per cm : 44
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : brown/black
colour – weft : brown/black
colour – other : black pile
finish : napped after hat construction?
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stiffening 1
construction : Cardboard stiffening material, at top of crown
pattern : none
technique 1 : non-woven
material – other : straw?
colour – other : brown/orange
finish : adhesive?
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stiffening 2
construction : Buckram used to stiffen vertical sides of crown and brim?
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : starch?
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Not visible

component : Hatband
construction : Hat band ribbon tied around base of crown
measurments : 2.6cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 72
thread count picks / rows per cm : 38
twist warp : no spin detected
twist weft : no spin detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Tape
construction : Piping tape used to tie hat to head under chin – two lengths, sewn either side of hat band
measurments : 1cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : new addition contemporary with repairs to cloak and apron, and addition of bedgown.

component : Stitching 1
construction : Stitching used in over-sewing around edge of hat brim
pattern : none
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : oversewing
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : Compare thread with other 6 ply examples – fine undyed

component : Stitching 2
construction : Stitching used to sew cardboard and buckrum together, and around hat band –
pattern : none
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Cloak
number : D3.2
component : Whole
construction : Red full length hooded cloak, made of rectangle of cloth pleated into neck with round of cloth pleated into neck and gathered around face to form a hood. Neck line seam finished with black ribbon and tied in a bow to secure to doll. Edges of cloak turned, hemmed and embroidered – feather stitch in black .
measurments : Centre front 35cm, Width of lower hem 67cm, hood from CB at neck to CF at face c.30cm (diameter of hood piece – approx), 1.3deep hem, CF turned in by 1cm, hood hem turned in by 3cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red flannel used for whole
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 13
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : fulled and raised
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : dyed in the cloth ? Evidence of paler red/undyed in the warp and weft where the fulled and raised surface has worn.

component : Ribbon 1
construction : Used to bind neck line and act as a tie at CF
measurments : 2.6cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 52
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : no spin detected
fibre – warp : synthetic – nylon?
fibre – warp : synthetic – nylon?
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : repair ribbon sewn over top of original silk ribbon

component : Ribbon 2
construction : Original ribbon binding at neck line – just visible under ribbon 1 in places.
measurments : not possible to measure
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : c.100?
thread count picks / rows per cm : 40
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : probably worn out so ribbon 1 applied over the top.

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to hem edge of hood
pattern : none
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip hemming
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : compare with stitching thread 1 in Hat D3.1

component : Stitching 2
construction : Used to at cloak hem and down sides
pattern : none
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip hemming
twist yarn : Z?S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : red
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 3
construction : Used as embroidery thread for feather stitch
pattern : none
technique 1 : embroidered
technique 2 : feather stitch
twist yarn : Z?S
material – other : wool
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Bedgown
number : D3.3
component : Whole
construction : Open bedgown cut as one rectangle of cloth pleated into neck line. Shoulder seams angled down towards cut arm holes. Full length set in sleeves, turned and gathered at wrist. Round collar with pleated frill. Ribbon ties each tied in bow at top CF. Bedgown appears to be a more recent addition – perhaps made at same time as the synthetic ribbons were added to the neck line of the cloak and waistband of apron.
measurments : CB 27cm, width at hem 58cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Black printed fabric with geometrical floral design, selvedge down LH CF
pattern : geometric floral
technique 1 : printed, woven
technique 2 : twill, sateen
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 30
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
colour – other : printed white, pink, green
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : faded at front

component : Ribbon1
construction : Ribbon sewn to front neck line
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 56
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : no spin detected
twist weft : no spin detected
fibre – warp : synthetic – nylon?
fibre – warp : synthetic – nylon?
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : same as neck blinding and apron waistband tie

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine stitching used at hem and RH CF turn under
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Hand stitching at armholes and around neck line
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running, slip hemming
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Apron
number : D3.4
component : Whole
construction : Black and white horizontal weft striped apron made of rectangular piece of cloth with selvege down LH side, hemmed along lower edge and RH edge. Pleated into waist with 5 knife pleats towards the sides, facing to CF. Ribbon tie. Badly faded on face of Fabric 1 and tied to doll reversed to show un-faded side.
measurments : CF 28cm, width at hem 48cm, waist 22cm, ties 42cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Black and white horizontal stripe linsey-woolsey
pattern : weft stripe – 1mm white stripe, 1.2cm black stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 17 in wool sections, 100 in white cotton stripe
twist warp : Z,2I
twist weft : s spun black, z spun white
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : black wool, white cotton
colour – warp : grey
colour – weft : black, white
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Ribbon 1
construction : Used to bind waistband and act as a tie at CF
measurments : 2.6cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 52
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : none detected
fibre – warp : synthetic – nylon?
fibre – warp : synthetic – nylon?
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : repair ribbon sewn over top of original silk ribbon – same as on cloak 3.2 Ribbon 1

component : Ribbon 2
construction : Original ribbon just visible under synthetic Ribbon 1
measurments : not measured
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 70
thread count picks / rows per cm : 40
twist warp : none detected
twist weft : none detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : same type of ribbon as on cloak neckline 3.2 Ribbon 2

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine stitching down RH side and along hem
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : same as machine stitching used on bed gown, a repair?

component : Stitching 2
construction : Used to sew synthetic ribbon to waistband
twist yarn : S,3Z
material – other : cotton?
colour – other : black
finish : mercerised?
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Skirt
number : D3.5
component : Whole
construction : Skirt made of one piece of cloth with CB seam, pleated into waist. Waist bound with tape, whole skirt sewn to combinations (later addition of this stitching?). Deep hem.
measurments : CB 29cm, circumference at hem 64cm, depth of hem 5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Used for whole skirt – weft-striped linsey-woolsey with vertical weft stripe. Compare fabric with D8.5.
pattern : weft stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 15
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : black, red, grey
finish : calendered?
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : Compare with Fabric 1 in D8.5

component : Tape 1
construction : Waistband – sewn over pleated top of skirt
measurments : 2.3cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 15
twist warp : S,2Z
twist weft : z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand stitching of tapes at waist
pattern : none
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : felling or dressmaker’s hemming
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Hand stitching used to sew skirt waistband to combinations
pattern : none
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : S,3Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : later addition – quite rough stitching technique

component : Stitching 3
construction : Hand stitching in seams and at hem
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch and slip hemming
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Underskirt 1
number : D3.6
component : Whole
construction : Underskirt of one piece with CB seam , pleated into waistband, waistband bound with tape, all hand-stitched except machine stitched 2cm hem
measurments : CB including waistband 27cm, circumference at hem 64cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Warp-striped flannel used for whole underskirt. Fabric is balanced weave.
pattern : striped
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 18
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : Z except for white/pink warp which is S plyed white and pink (Z,2S)
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : Warp stripe, 2 white, 1 S plyed pink/white, 4 white, 1 S plyed pink/white, 2 white, 11 grey, 1 white, 2 grey, 1 white, 4 grey, 1 white, 2 grey, 1 white, 11 grey.
colour – weft : white
finish : partly fulled?
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Tape 1
construction : Used to from waistband, folded over top edge of petticoat
measurments : 2cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z,2S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : note difference with tapes used for waistband on skirt

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine stitching at hem
pattern : none
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : presume same thread used on top and bottom machine stitch

component : Stitching 2
construction : Handstitching at CB seam
pattern : none
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : same as above

item : Underskirt 2
number : D3.7
component : Whole
construction : Underskirt made of one piece of cloth, with CB seam, horizontal 2cm deep tuck 5 cm from hem, opening at CB waist but sewn to combinations.
measurments : CB including waistband 21cm, circumference at hem 55cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain flannel used for whole
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 15
thread count picks / rows per cm : 14
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : fulled and raised
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Same fabric as combinations

component : Tape
construction : Tape used to bind waistband, folded over
measurments : 2cm wide?
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 22
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : linen
fibre – warp : linen
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : calendered?
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand stitching in seams and at hem
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton?
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Used in feather stitch embroidery around hems
technique 1 : embroidered
technique 2 : feather stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S,6Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : pink
finish : mercerised?
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : stranded cotton, Anchor Stranded type?

item : Combinations
number : D3.8
component : Whole
construction : Pair of all in one sleeveless combinations, ankle length with turned hems and pink feather stitch embroidery.
measurments : Inside leg 12cm, circumference of hems 15cm.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain flannel used for whole
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 15
thread count picks / rows per cm : 14
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : fulled and raised
microscopic analysis? : none

component : Stitching 1
construction : Use in construction of seams and hem
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Used in feather stitch embroidery
technique 1 : embroidered
technique 2 : feather stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S,6Z
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – other : pink
finish : mercerised?
general observations : stranded cotton, Anchor Stranded type?

item : Neckerchief
number : D3.9
component : Whole
construction : Neckerchief made of scrap of pink flannel, folded along length and wrapped around neck, over lapping at front left over right.
measurments : 6cm wide when opened out, c. 30cm long

component : Fabric
construction : Piece of flannel with selvedge along long edge
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 18
thread count picks / rows per cm : 22
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : pink
finish : fulled and raised
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : bad fading – dye loss

component : Stitching 1
construction : Handstiching holding neckerchief in place – quite rough stitching
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : S,4Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Cap
number : D3.10
component : Whole
construction : Lace cap made of two lengths of machine lace, sewn together along their length, gathered into CB, trimmed around face with 2 rows of lace frills, with pink silk ribbon rossettes in between the two rows and ribbon band around whole frilled edge and back of neck
measurments : From CB neck to CF face 18cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Lace used for main body of cap
pattern : floral
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : machine?
twist yarn : S ply
material – other : cotton?
colour – other : white/cream
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 2
construction : Lace frills around face and neck – not analysed

component : Ribbon 1
construction : Ribbon trim and rosettes
measurments : ?
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 60
thread count picks / rows per cm : 44
twist warp : I?
twist weft : I?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : pink
colour – weft : pink
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching1
construction : Used in construction
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : ?
material – other : cotton?
colour – other : white/cream
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : not fully analysed

item : Knitting in Basket
number : D3.11
component : Whole
construction : Sample of circular knitting on needles made from hair pins, with ball of wool and in a basket – sewn to RH cuff of Bedgown

component : Basket

component : Knitting
construction : Sample of circular knitting, with ball of wool still attached
measurments : 4cm long, 7cm in circumference,
pattern : none
technique 1 : knitting
technique 2 : stocking
thread count ends / wales per cm : 4
thread count picks / rows per cm : 5
twist yarn : Z,4S
material – other : wool
colour – other : red
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to sew basket to bedgown cuff
pattern : none
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : S, 3Z
material – other : cotton?
colour – other : black
finish : mercerised?
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : repair thread – later addition?

item : Stockings
number : D3.12
component : Whole
construction : Pair of stockings on detached legs, with seams up back
measurments : Approx length from heel hidden in shoe to top 14cm
general observations : gaffer tape repair to stick legs to body

component : Fabric 1
construction : Machine knitted fabric
pattern : none
technique 1 : knitting
technique 2 : stocking
thread count ends / wales per cm : 9
thread count picks / rows per cm : 13
twist yarn : Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : badly faded

component : Stitching1
construction : Machine stitching used in back seam
pattern : none
twist yarn : Z, 2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : presume same thread used for upper and lower stitching line

item : Shoes
number : D3.13
component : Whole
construction : Pair of shoes made of patent effect material tying at top front ankle with cord through brass eyelets. Black ribbon bow on front. Leather soles. Compare shoes with D8.13
measurments : Marked size 3 on sole, 6cm long at sole

component : Fabric 1
construction : Fabric with pitch-like application
pattern : glossy
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
finish : pitch?
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : similar to making coracles?

component : Cord
construction : Used to tie at front ankle
measurments : ?
twist yarn : Z, 2S
material – other : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
colour – other : black
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : black colouring looks like pigmented finish – worn / faded to reveal ecru fibres

component : Eyelets
construction : Brass – two on each shoe to take cord
measurments : ?
technique 1 : stamped
thread count ends / wales per cm :
material – other : brass
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 2
construction : Leather? used for soles
pattern : Stamped with Number 3 on each sole
material – other : leather?
colour – other : yellow
finish : painted / coated
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Used for tie / bow at front
measurments : 0.6cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : weft face satin
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : ?
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : weft – very shiny
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : difficult to identify due to small samples and dirt. Thicker weft, glassy warp.