Welsh costume doll 4

number : D4

D4 Front D4 reverse

Tenby Museum : 1983.916.1 (a pair with D5),

Costume: cap, gown, skirt, petticoat, chemise, apron, separate sleeves, carrying a baby wrapped in a shawl, with knitting, knitted stockings, clogs, separate hat.
Body: Wax head, soft stuffed body, leather hands, glass eyes.
Height: 45cm from cap to sole of clog
Hat: felt
General observations:  
This doll with a baby has a typical Pembrokeshire plain-coloured brown short-tailed gown, with only one of the two buttons normally found at the small of the back. The front is crossed over. The skirt is striped fabric, the lower part of which is badly faded.
The shawl, which is a triangle, probably made from a square, cut in half (the other half used for the other doll in this pair, D5).
Date: 1889
Provenance and history: Made for Miss Emily Warren Davies, and her sister by their aunt, Christmas, 1889. The costume was said to be like that of the Llangwm women, Pembrokeshire, who gathered and sold shell food.

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

item : Doll
number : D4
component : Whole
construction : Female wax head doll, wearing cap, bed gown, skirt, petticoat, chemise, apron, separate sleeves, carrying a baby wrapped in a shawl, with knitting, knitted stockings, clogs, Separate hat. Soft stuffed body, leather hands, glass eyes.
measurments : height 45cm, from cap to sole of clog

item : Hat
number : D4.1
component : Whole
construction : Hat made of two pieces – brim and crown cut from circle of cloth gathered into hole of brim. Hand stitched. Black ribbon tied in a bow around crown.
measurments : height of crown 2.2cmcm, Circumference of crown base 14.5cm, Circumference of brim 30cm, depth of brim 2.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Felted fabric used for whole
pattern : none
technique 1 : non-woven
technique 2 : felted
material – other : wool
colour – other : brown
finish : highly felted
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : appears to be completely felted but does have a lighter brown core to the felt cross section – may indicate dying in the piece, but could also be a woven structure underneath.

component : Hatband
construction : Hatband ribbon tied around crown in a bow
measurments : 1cm width
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 64
thread count picks / rows per cm : 40
twist warp : I?
twist weft : I?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to sew crown to brim and keep ribbon in place
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : back stitch
twist yarn : I,3S
material – other : linen
colour – other : brown
finish : waxed?
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Cap
number : D4.2
component : Whole
construction : Cap of plain net gathered into back of neck, with two rows lace frills around neck and face. Blue ribbon loops between frills and bow at CB, tied under chin with ribbon bow
measurments : 10cm from CB neck to CF face

component : Fabric 1
construction : Net used for main hat
pattern : square mesh
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : machine?
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton?
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 2
construction : Lace frills
measurments : 3.5cm wide
pattern : lace pattern – not identified
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : machine?
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton?
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Blue satin ribbon with picot edge used for loops between frills, bow at CB and tie under chin
pattern : plain
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : satin
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : I
twist weft : Z,2S,2I
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : pale blue
colour – weft : pale blue
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching
construction : Used in construction
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not identified
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Apron
number : D4.3
component : Whole
construction : Apron of check fabric with white waistband tape folding over gathered top edge to form ties at each end and tying at CF (very tight) in a bow. Selvedge up RHS
measurments : height including waistband 20cm, width at hem 34.5cm,

component : Fabric 1
construction : Check flannel
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 10
thread count picks / rows per cm : 10
twist warp : grey – S; black Z,2S; red Z,2S; white 2 x Z,2S blue in selvedge Z,2S
twist weft : grey S, red S, white Z,3S
fibre – warp : grey – a mixture of undyed cotton and wool with blue wool (two shades at least), black – cotton , red -cotton, white – cotton; selvedge warp (one blue, one pale blue) – predominantly cotton with odd undyed, blue wool fibres mixed in plus other stray wool fibres possibly contaminated by other yarns.- .
fibre – warp : grey and brown – both a mixture of undyed and pale brown cotton and with blue (at least two shades), red, brown, pale pink, yellow – wool; red – wool; white – cotton.
colour – warp : Repeat is 8 grey,1 white, 1 grey, 2 black, 2 red, 2 black, 1 grey, 1 white.
colour – weft : Weft is 8 grey, 1 white, 1 grey, 2 brown, 2 red, 2 brown, 1 grey, 1 white.
finish : not detected
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : Is this made up of recycled yarns? – in the grey and brown.? Wool fibres look scoured and very worn. This flannel check needs more analysis – shoddy, mixed yarns?

component : Waistband Tape
construction : Plain white ‘ India’ tape
measurments : 1.2 cm wide
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : S,2Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : not detected
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Herringbone stitch along hem, button hole stitch down LHS apron, and stitching at waistband
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : herringbone, buttonhole stitch and dressmaker’s hemming
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : loomstate
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Bedgown
number : D4.4
component : Whole
construction : Short bedgown of linsey-wolsey, cross over fronts (right over left), deep neck line, back cut in one piece but a dart from waist to neck forms CB seam. Princess line seams attach back panel to fronts, side peplums sewn to waistline. Back panels form pleats at waist. Front panels held in place by 3 pins. Set in sleeves to just below elbow trimmed with ribbon.
measurments : CB 17cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Linsey-wolsey used for whole bedgown. Selvedge down LHS seam attaching back panel to front.
pattern : plain
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 22
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : brown, selvedge has red and pink warp
colour – weft : brown but made up of 3 shades within the yarn – red, blue, brown.

component : Ribbon
construction : Sewn around bottom of sleeve
measurments : 1cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : very fine

component : Buttons
construction : Two faceted black buttons either side of CB sewn to top of pleats
measurments : C.1cm diameter
pattern : none
material – other : glass / jet?
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hem is herringbone stitched.
pattern : none
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : herringbone
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : ?
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : A random stitch pattern is used to hold the pleats in place in the back tail
pattern : none
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not identified
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : ?
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Skirt
number : D4.5
component : Whole
construction : Striped linsey wolsey skirt gathered into waistband, 3cm deep hem with turned under raw edge. Waist bound with tape to form waistband. Pinned into CB at waist.
measurments : CB – 23cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Striped linsey wolsey – selvedge down CB LH edge
pattern : ends are grouped into 4 together over 1mm with a gap of about 3mm to the next end group. This forms the vertical stripe of exposed weft threads
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : c.16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 11
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : black but made up of multicoloured fibres – black, brown, red, pink, yellow, blue, green
colour – weft : red
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Waistband tape
construction : Used to bind top edge of gathered waistband
measurments : c 2cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : CB open seam – running stitch, hem stitching
pattern : none
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch and slip hemming
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : ?
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Underskirt
number : D4.6
component : Whole
construction : Underskirt of one piece red flannel with CB seam (selvedge to LH CB). Hem finished with feather stitch embroidery
measurments : CB 22cm; hem 2.5cm deep

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red flannel
pattern : plain
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z?
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : much finer and higher quality flannel to that used for shawls.

component : Waistband tape
construction : Assume same tape as in skirt, used to bind gathered waistband
measurments : c 2cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z thin
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : CB seam – hand stitched
pattern : none
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Embroidery
pattern : ?
technique 1 : embroidered
technique 2 : feather stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : silk
colour – other : yellow
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Chemise
number : D4.7
component : Whole
construction : Plain chemise. Presume full length – not accessible. Side seams open and raw edges.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain cotton fabric used for whole
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand stitched hem
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not identified
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Sleeves
number : D4.8
component : Whole
construction : Pair of sleeves gathered at cuff – hand stitched. Tops not visible
measurments : c. 7cm visible

component : Fabric 1
construction : Printed fabric
pattern : floral stripe with paisley pattern
technique 1 : printed, woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – other : printed colours red and dark green on undyed background
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon 1
construction : Pink ribbon bows at cuff and elbow
measurments : 1cm wide
pattern : plain
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : c.84
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : pink
colour – weft : pink
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand stitching at gathered cuff, sewing on ribbon bows and attaching basket to sleeve
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : gathering stitch and not identified
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : not detected
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Shawl
number : D4.9
component : Whole
construction : Neck shawl held in place by 2 pins on LHS under arm and 1 pin RHS under arm. A triangle – possibly a whole square cut in two to provide a shawl for each doll (D4 and D5). Raw edge along cut diagonal and knottted fringe on two other sides.
measurments : 22 x 20cm. Diagonal not measured – over stretched.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red flannel
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 11
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
colour – other : none
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : compare with shawl from matching D5

component : Fringe
construction : Knotted fringe
measurments : 3cm long, 2.5 knots per cm
technique 1 : knotted
technique 2 : single looped knot
twist yarn : Z,4S
material – other : wool
colour – other : red
finish : not detected
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Stockings
number : D4.10
component : Whole
construction : Pair of black (faded to dark green) stockings to just above knee length
measurments : 9cm from top of shoe back to top of stocking.

component : Knitting
construction : Knitted fabric
pattern : none
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : stocking
thread count ends / wales per cm : 3
thread count picks / rows per cm : 4
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : wool
colour – other : black (fadedd to green)
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : wool badly degraded and faded to green, same knitting as kntting sample and matching D5

item : Shoes
number : D4.11
component : Whole
construction : Pair of wooden clogs with leather uppers trimmed with black ribbon around the top edge and bows at the front.
measurments : 5.5cm long

component : Leather
construction : Black leather uppers, cut in one piece with seam of heel back and cut out folds at toe.
material – other : leather
colour – other : black surface colour – worn at toes.

component : Ribbon
construction : For binding top edge of leather and bows
measurments : 1cm wide
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 56
thread count picks / rows per cm : 34
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Wood
construction : Wooden soles

component : tacks
construction : Brass tacks / pins

component : Stitching 1
construction : not identified – not accessible

item : Knitting and needles
number : D4.12
component : Whole
construction : Sample of circular knitting on three needles with ball of wool, pinned to apron

component : Knitting
construction : Same knitting as on stockings
pattern : none
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : stocking
thread count ends / wales per cm : 3
thread count picks / rows per cm : 4
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : wool
colour – other : black
finish : none detected
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Needles

item : Baby shawl
number : D4.13
component : Whole
construction : Shawl cut from square of cloth with selvedge, gathered at one corner to form hood
measurments : 11 x 11cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red flannel
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 11
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
colour – other : none
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : compare with shawl from D5

component : Stitching 1
construction : Embroidery thread used for buttonhole stitch along CF opening and around front edge of hood
technique 1 : embroidered
technique 2 : buttonhole stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S,3I
material – other : cotton
colour – other : yellow
finish : not detected
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Similar to “Anchor Stranded” – just 3 strands (out of 6) used

component : Stitching 1
construction : Split embroidery thread used to gather corner to form hood.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : gathering stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S,2I
material – other : cotton
colour – other : yellow
finish : none detected
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Similar to “Anchor Stranded” but 2 strands used for gathering and around neck to draw fabric into a hood.

item : Baby robe
number : D4.14
component : Whole
construction : Long robe with long sleeves made up of cylinder of fabric, plain open seam , trimmed with lace along hem. Sleeves made of separate cyclinders gathered into wrist and into top of arm but not sewn to main body.
measurments : length of robe including lace trim 16cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain lawn
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 48
thread count picks / rows per cm : 46
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z?
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : starched / pressed
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : looked glassy like linen

component : Ribbon
construction : Pink ribbon used to tie around baby’s waist
measurments : 0.8cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : c48
thread count picks / rows per cm : 44
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : pink
colour – weft : pink
finish : not detected
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Lace
construction : Lace trim around hem
measurments : 1.5cm wide
pattern : not identified
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : bobbin?
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : not detected
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used in hand stitching of seams – not analysed

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