Welsh costume doll 5

number : D5

D5 Front D5 reverse

Tenby Museum : 1983.916.2 (a pair with D4)

Costume: cap, bed gown, skirt, petticoat, chemise, apron, separate sleeves, with knitting, knitted stockings, clogs, Separate hat.
Body: Wax head, soft stuffed body, leather hands, glass eyes.
Hat: silk plush
Height: 42cm, from cap to sole of clog
General observations:  The gown is very similar to its pair (D4), but with striped rather than plain fabric which is also badly faded. She carries a basket of seaweed on her back – attached by a black velvet ribbon around her neck.
Date: 1889
Provenance and history: Made for Miss Emily Warren Davies, and her sister by their aunt, Christmas, 1889. The costume was said to be like that of the Llangwm women, Pembrokeshire, who gathered and sold shell food.

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

item : Doll
number : D5
component : Whole
construction : Female wax head doll, wearing cap, bed gown, skirt, petticoat, chemise, apron, separate sleeves, with knitting, knitted stockings, clogs, Separate hat. This doll is the second of a pair of similar dolls so compare D4. She carries a basket of seaweed on her back – attached by a black velvet ribbon around her neck
measurments : height 42cm, from cap to sole of clog
general observations : Much of this analysis was carried out on D4 and copied into this D5 doll – same fabrics etc. Measurements have been checked and amended for D5 where they are different to D4

item : Hat
number : D5.1
component : Whole
construction : Tall hat with tapered crown. Made of card with black plush covering, stuck with animal glue, edge of brim bound with black ribbon, hatband with bow.
measurments : height of crown 8cm, Circumference of crown base 16cm, circumference of crown top 10cm, Circumference of brim 36cm, depth of brim 2.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plush used to cover crown and upper side of brim
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain?, with napped pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : black pile
finish : napped
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : could not get enough access to analyse weave – very fine.

component : Fabric 2
construction : Fabric used on under side of brim
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
fibre – warp : not analysed
fibre – warp : not analysed
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : not detected
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Hatband
construction : A ribbon is tied around the crown in a bow – full width used for bow, cut half width used for hatband
measurments : ribbon width is 2.3cm
pattern : ribbed
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : many
thread count picks / rows per cm : 15
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Ribbon
construction : Ribbon binding around edge of brim
measurments : c. 1cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 64
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stiffening
construction : Cardboard
material – other : straw-board?
colour – other : brown/orange
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : access limited

component : Adhesive
construction : Animal glue – visible on inside – used to form main cardboard construction
material – other : animal glue?
colour – other : ?
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to sew brim binding in place
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : back stitch, stab stitch
twist yarn : z6s
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Cap
number : D5.2
component : Whole
construction : Cap of one piece plain undyed cotton gathered into back of neck. Trimmed with lace frill around face and neck
measurments : c.10cm from CB neck to CF face

component : Fabric 1
construction : Cotton lawn -used for main body
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : c.48
thread count picks / rows per cm : 44
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Lace
construction : Woven braid – looks like lace, used in lace frill
measurments : c.1.5cm wide
pattern : patterned like lace
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : ?
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : looks like lace but think it’s actually woven – braid

component : Stitching 1
construction : Cord / thick thread – found in the lace type frill
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Hand stitched construction and used to sew on ribbon ties – not analysed

component : Ribbon
construction : Used to tie at CF
measurments : 0.6cm wide
pattern : picot edge
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
twist yarn : ?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : pale blue
colour – weft : pale blue
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Apron
number : D5.3
component : Whole
construction : Apron of check fabric with white waistband tape folded over gathered top edge to form ties at each end and tying at CB in a bow. Selvedge up LHS, blanket stitch finish up RHS, 1cm hem herringbone stitched.
measurments : height including waistband 21cm, width at hem 35cm,
general observations : component details copied and as same as D4

component : Fabric 1
construction : Check flannel
pattern : Window-pane check?
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 10
thread count picks / rows per cm : 10
twist warp : grey – S; black Z,2S; red Z,2S; white 2 x Z,2S blue in selvedge Z,2S
twist weft : grey S, red S, white Z,3S
fibre – warp : grey – a mixture of undyed cotton and wool with blue(two shades at least) wool, black – cotton , red -cotton, white cotton; selvedge blue warp one blue, one pale blue – predominantly cotton with odd undyed, blue wool fibres mixed in plus other stray wool fibres possibly contaminated by other yarns.- .
fibre – warp : grey and brown – both a mixture of cotton and wool; red – wool; white – cotton.
colour – warp : Repeat is 8 grey,1 white, 1 grey, 2 black, 2 red, 2 black, 1 grey, 1 white.
colour – weft : Repeat is 8 grey, 1 white, 1 grey, 2 brown, 2 red, 2 brown, 1 grey, 1 white.
finish : none detected
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : Same fabric 1 as on D4.3

component : Waistband Tape
construction : Plain white ‘ India’ tape
measurments : 1.2 cm wide
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : S,2Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none detected
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Herringbone stitch along hem, button hole stitch down LHS apron, over stitch at waistband
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none detected
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Bedgown
number : D5.4
component : Whole
construction : Short bedgown, cross over fronts (left over right), v neck line, back cut in one piece but a dart from neck to waist forms CB seam. Princess line seams attach back panels to fronts, side peplums sewn to waistline. Same cut as D4.4. but different fabric. Front panels over-lap stitched in place with CB seam off-set to the right. Ribbons tied around sleeves
measurments : CB c. 16cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Striped linsey-wolsey used for whole bedgown – Same fabric as used in skirt D4.5, and D5.5
pattern : Striped, 4 ends are grouped together over 1mm with a gap of about 3mm to the next end group. This forms the warp stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : c.16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 11
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : black but made of up multicoloured fibres – black, brown, red, pink, yellow, blue, green
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Ribbon
construction : Sewn around bottom of sleeve into a bow
measurments : 1cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : too fine to count

component : Buttons
construction : Two faceted black buttons either side of CB sewn to top of pleats
material – other : glass / jet?
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used for herringbone at hem
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : herringbone
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Assume same as D4

component : Stitching 2
construction : Stitches used for holding pleats in place at back
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not identified
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : ?
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Assume same as D4

item : Skirt
number : D5.5
component : Whole
construction : Striped flannel skirt gathered into waistband, 3cm deep hem with turned under raw edge. Waistband pinned together at CB into body of doll. Waist bound with tape to form waistband. 3.5cm turned hem.
measurments : CB – 23cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Striped flannel or linsey-wolsey – selvedge down CB LH edge
pattern : Striped, 4 ends are grouped together over 1mm with a gap of about 3mm to the next end group. This forms the warp stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : c.16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 11
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : black but made of up of multicoloured fibres – black, brown, red, pink, yellow, blue, green
colour – weft : red
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Waistband tape
construction : Used to bind top edge of gathered waistband
measurments : c 2cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z (thin)
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : From CB running stitch in seam – open
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : ?
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Underskirt
number : D5.6
component : Whole
construction : Underskirt of one piece of red flannel with CB seam (selvedge to LH CB). Hem finished with feather stitch embroidery
measurments : CB 22cm; hem 2.5cm deep

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red flannel
pattern : plain
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z?
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : much finer and higher quality flannel to that used for shawls.

component : Waistband tape
construction : Assume same as in skirt
measurments : c 2cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z (thin)
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : CB seam – hand stitched
pattern : none
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Embroidery around hem
pattern : ?
technique 1 : hand embroidered
technique 2 : feather stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : silk
colour – other : yellow
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Chemise
number : D5.7
component : Whole
construction : Plain chemise (assumed). Side seams open and raw edges.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain cotton fabric used for whole
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand stitched hem
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Sleeves 1
number : D5.8
component : Whole
construction : Pair of sleeves gathered at cuff – hand stitched. Tops not visible. Assumed same as sleeves in D4.8
measurments : c. 7cm visible

component : Fabric 1
construction : Printed cotton fabric
pattern : printed
technique 1 : printed, woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – other : printed colours red and dark green on undyed background
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon 1
construction : Pink ribbon bows at cuff and elbow
measurments : 1cm wide
pattern : plain
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : c.84
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26
twist warp : not analysed
twist weft : not analysed
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : pink
colour – weft : pink
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand stitching at gathered cuff, sewing on ribbon bows and attaching basket to sleeve
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none detected
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Sleeves 2
number : D5.9
component : Whole
construction : A second pair of sleeves worn over Sleeves 1, gathered at wrist and stitched around elbow at edge of bedgown sleeve and over Sleeves 1 . Ribbon ties at wrist
measurments : 6.5cm from top to wrist

component : Fabric
construction : Printed cotton
pattern : small repeating diamond print
technique 1 : printed, woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
colour – other : brown print
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Are these over sleeves worn only when gathering seaweed – compare with D4.

item : Shawl
number : D5.10
component : Whole
construction : Shoulder shawl sewn together at CF with wool. A triangle – possibly a whole square cut in two to provide a shawl for each doll D4 and D5. Raw edge along cut diagonal and knottted fringe on two other sides. Darned holes in LH shoulder.
measurments : not measured but roughly same size as D4

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red flannel
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 11
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
colour – other : none
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : compare with shawl from matching D4

component : Fringe
construction : Knotted fringe
measurments : 3cm long, 2.5 knots per cm
twist yarn : Z,4S
material – other : wool
colour – other : red
finish : none detected
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Darning wool used for repairs
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : wool
colour – other : red
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Stockings
number : D5.11
component : Whole
construction : Pair of black stockings to just above knee length
measurments : 10cm from top of shoe back to top of stocking.

component : Knitting
construction : Knitted fabric
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : stocking
thread count ends / wales per cm : 3
thread count picks / rows per cm : 4
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : wool
colour – other : black (faded to green)
finish : none detected
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : wool badly degraded and faded to green, same knitting as kntting sample and matching D4

item : Shoes
number : D5.12
component : Whole
construction : Pair of wooden clogs with leather uppers trimmed with black ribbon around the top edge and bows at the front.
measurments : 5.5cm long

component : Leather
construction : Black leather uppers, cut in one piece with seam of heel back and cut out folds at toe.
colour – other : black surface colour – worn at toes.

component : Ribbon
construction : For binding top edge of leather and bows
measurments : 1cm wide
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 56
thread count picks / rows per cm : 34
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Wood
construction : wooden soles

component : Tacks
construction : brass tacks / pins

component : Stitching 1
construction : Not identified – not accessible

item : Knitting and needles
number : D5.13
component : Whole
construction : Piece of circular knitting on 3 needles with ball of wall held in hands

component : Knitting
construction : not fully analysed similar to knitting in D4

component : Needles
construction : not fully analysed similar to knitting in D4

item : Basket 1
number : D5.14
component : Whole
construction : Small oval basket with long looped handle sewn to RH over sleeve.

component : basket

item : Basket 2
number : D5.15
component : Whole
construction : Large flat basket carried on back of doll and secured by loop of velvet ribbon around neck.

component : Basket

component : Ribbon
construction : Black velvet ribbon used to secure basket around neck – not analysed

component : Contents
construction : Contains dried seaweed and shells

component : Threads
construction : Threads used to keep contents in the basket – not analysed.

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