Welsh costume doll 6

number : D6

D6 Front D6 g back

Bangor Museum : 61.43

Costume: hat, cap, apron, gown, skirt, chemise, neckerchief, stockings and shoes.

Body: Papier-mâché head and wooden body and limbs. The lower wooden arms and legs have gesso layers.

Hat: silk plush

Cap: lace net, possibly made by machine.

Height: 29cms

General observations:  

The gown is of red and dark blue stripes of equal width on a blue warp. It has no collar. Underneath is what appears to be a bedgown of printed cotton. The skirt is badly faded.

Date: mid 19th century?

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Doll with papier mache head and wooden body and limbs. Lower wooden arms and legs have gesso layers. Doll wears hat, cap, apron, bedgown, skirt, chemise, neckerchief, stockings and shoes

item : Hat
number : D6.1
component : Whole
construction : Hat with high tapered crown and narrow hat band tied and stitched in place
measurments : height of crown 3cm, Circumference of crown base 8cm, circumference of crown top 7cm, Circumference of brim 18cm, depth of brim 1.5cm
general observations : doll not undressed due to tight tying of apron waistband tape and potential damage – tape is calendered and therfore potentially unstable.

component : Fabric
construction : Plush used to cover outer and inner hat
pattern : napped pile
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : ?
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : black pile
finish : napped
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : see notes on weave

component : Stiffening Material
construction : White card – visible only on the inside
material – other : card
general observations : Looks like general card – not hat makers materials.

component : Hatband
construction : Hatband made of a ribbon tied and looped at back
measurments : 0.5cm wide
pattern : ribbed
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : warp face plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : c. 8
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Fine decorative silk ribbon with fine selvedges.

component : Tape
construction : Tape used as ties for under chin
measurments : c. 0.5cm wide but cut edge so maybe split from another wider tape
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : c.24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching
construction : Used to sew pleats together on under side of hat – a variation of running stitch, and for attaching hat band
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch and oversewing
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : All stitching is the same thread in this doll, apart from the cap

item : Cap
number : D6.2
component : Whole
construction : Cap made of single piece of net, gathered into CB, trimmed with one band of narrow lace
measurments : CB to CF 5cm

component : Fabric
construction : Net – used for whole
pattern : Hexagonal mesh
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : machine?
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Lace
construction : Band of lace gathered
measurments : 1.5cm wide
pattern : Repeating pattern with loops along scalloped edge.
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : machine?
twist yarn : ?
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Pink ribbon used to tie under chin
measurments : c. 0.5cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : pink
colour – weft : pink
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : very fargmentary so analysis not possible

component : Stitching
construction : For gathering and attaching lace frill
pattern : none
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : gathering and running stitch
twist yarn : S plyed, probably Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : no
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Apron
number : D6.3
component : Whole
construction : Apron in one piece of black and white check fabric, pleated into waistband tape. Selvedge down LHS. RHS and hem folded by 0.5cm twice and hem stitched. Waistband tape crossed at back and tied in reef knot at CF
measurments : width at hem 15cm, height including waistband 12cm

component : Fabric
construction : Checked flannel or linsey wolsey
pattern : check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 15
twist warp : Z -single blue, Z -double white
twist weft : Z – black, Z white
fibre – warp : blue – cotton, double white – cotton?
fibre – warp : black – wool, white band – cotton
colour – warp : blue and white, sequence is 8 blue, 2 white (each white is two threads lying parallel)
colour – weft : black and white, weft sequence 6 white cotton (variable thickness of thread) 10 black/navy wool.
finish : loomstate
microscopic analysis? : yes of wool weft and cotton weft only.

component : Waistband Tape
construction : One edge of tape sewn to top of pleated fabric and extending to cross over at back and tie at CF with a reef knot –
measurments : 1cm wide
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
finish : calendered – flattened weave
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : good example of calendered / glazed cotton tape.

component : Stitching
construction : used to attach tape at waist
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : waxed?
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Bedgown
number : D6.4
component : Whole
construction : Open long (knee length) striped bedgown made in one rectangular piece – slits cut for arm holes, and slightly shaped shoulder seams. Long straight sleeves. Separate collar section applied at back neck. CFs both sides and lower edge turned by c. 0.5cm and hem stitched. End of arm just turned under but not stitched.
measurments : CB 16cm, width at hem 20cm

component : Fabric
construction : Linsey wolsey – used for whole bedgown
pattern : weft stripe / banded
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 11
thread count picks / rows per cm : 10 per cm in black , 12 per cm in red
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S in black and red
fibre – warp : linen
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : blue and undyed fibres visible under microscope
colour – weft : black, red
finish : loomstate
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : linsey-woolsey

component : Stitching
construction : Used in seams and along hem
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running and hem stitching
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : na
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Skirt
number : D6.5
component : Whole
construction : striped skirt cut in one piece with CB open seam, pleated into waist but no waistband. 1cm turned hem.
measurments : Height at CF 14cm, circumference of hem 28cm

component : Fabric
construction : Linsey wolsey
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 10 in black stripe, 12 in purple and magenta, fine in white.
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z – black, Z white
fibre – warp : linen
fibre – warp : black, purple, magenta – wool, white – cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : black, magenta, purple, white
finish : loomstate
microscopic analysis? : yes – all fibres
general observations : linsey wolsey – north Wales examples ? Weft stripe of 16 black, 6 purple, 2 white, 4 magenta, 2 white, 6 purple.3cm repeat

component : Stitching
construction : Used in seams, along hem and to sew pleats at waist and in CB seam
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running, hem stitching and unidentified
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Underskirt
number : D6.6
component : Whole
construction : Underskirt or chemise of plain weave cotton – straight cut – could be full length chemise – not accessible.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven cotton fabric
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none

component : Fabric 2
construction : An extra 4cm deep covering of fabric stitched to the lower half of the underskirt – perhaps to give more bulk to the skirt.
measurments : 4cm deep
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 18
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z – black, Z white
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : plain cotton linsey wolsey? Cotton appears to be the weft Wool is very degraded at front – why? Was it exposed to high light levels before the doll was dressed? or is there a chemical reaction going on.

component : Stitching
construction : Stitching used in construction
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : S plyed
material – other : cotton?
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Stockings
number : D6.7
component : Whole
construction : Black knee length stockings, seamed up the back
measurments : c.3cm high

component : Knitting
construction : used for whole stockings, not cast on along top edge – raw loops of stitches
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : stocking
thread count ends / wales per cm : 6
thread count picks / rows per cm : 8
twist yarn : S
material – other : wool
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching
construction : Used up CB – over sewing stitch
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : oversewing
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : waxed?
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Shoes
number : D6.8
component : Whole
construction : Made from one piece of leather, stiched up back and along sole
measurments : 3cm long

component : Leather
construction : Black leather

component : Stitching
construction : used along sole and up CB
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : oversewing
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : waxed?
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Neckerchief
number : D6.9
component : Whole
construction : Strip of printed cotton folded around neck and visible down to waist.

component : Fabric
construction : Printed cotton
pattern : printed geometric
technique 1 : printed, woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
colour – other : printed brown and black
finish : starched?
microscopic analysis? : no

 

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