Welsh costume doll 7

number : D7

D7 Front D7 reverse

Bangor Museum : 1995/105

Costume: hat, cap, cape, long blouse, skirt, apron, separate tie-on pocket, two petticoats, chemise and drawers.

Body: Composition head, wooden body and limbs. Lower wooden arms and legs have a gesso layer. Broken neck, arms are detached but the right arm is attached to clothes with a safety pin.

Hat: silk plush

Cap: lace

Height: 29 cms

General observations:  

There is a large pocket hanging in front of the apron (on other dolls, these are normally hidden). The red cloak is very similar to those on D3, D20 and D21.

Date: mid 19th century?

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Doll with composition head, wooden body and limbs. Lower wooden arms and legs have a gesso layer. Broken neck, arms are detached but the right arm is attached to clothes with a safety pin. The doll wears a hat, cap, cape, long blouse, skirt, apron, separate tie-on pocket, two petticoats, chemise and drawers

item : Hat
number : D7.1
component : Whole
construction : Tall hat with slightly tapered crown, brim, hatband, bound edges to brim and lining.
measurments : height of crown 6cm, Circumference of crown base 18cm, circumference of crown top 14cm, Circumference of brim 31cm, depth of brim 2.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Outer covering of black plush
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : napped pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : black pile
finish : napped
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Weave too fine and inaccessible to count. Thick long silk pile -high quality?

component : Fabric 2
construction : Lining material used in crown – gathered at top of crown –
measurments : Same height as crown but gathered to centre
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stiffening Material 1
construction : Disc of white cardboard at crown top, sewn in place with oversew stitch. Ring of card used to shape hat brim covered on both sides with black plush fabric
general observations : not analysed

component : Stiffening Material 2
construction : Open weave white starched muslin – hatmaker’s muslin / book muslin used to line crown sides
general observations : not analysed

component : Stiffening Material 3
construction : Undentified stiffening material between muslin above and plush – bonded to muslin and used in sides of crown.
general observations : not analysed

component : Hatband
construction : Hatband of ribbed black silk ribbon, same ribbon used to bind edge of brim
measurments : 1.4cm wide
pattern : ribbed
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : high
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : ?
twist weft : 2 threads lying parallel Z,2S
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black/brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : used to sew lining to hat and probably for all stitching
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : oversewing and unidentified
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Cap
number : D7.2
component : Whole
construction : Cap of plain net with two rows of pleated lace around face, net is turned under and pleated into neck. Ribbon ties attached at fronts tied in a bow.
measurments : from CB neck line to CF edge 11cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Net used for whole
pattern : Square mesh
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : machine?
twist yarn : ?
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Frill
construction : Pleated lace frills around face
measurments : c.1cm wide
pattern : unidentified
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : machine?
twist yarn : ?
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Used to tie at CF under chin
measurments : 0.7cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 4/1 satin
thread count ends / wales per cm : ? – high
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : regenerated cellulose
fibre – warp : regenerated cellulose
colour – weft : cream
colour – other : cream
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : Could this indicate early 20th doll?

component : Stitching
construction : Used to sew ribbon and lace
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Apron
number : D7.3
component : Whole
construction : Apron of multicoloured check fabric, pleated into waistband , machine stitched with waistband and ties of same fabric, tied in bow at CB
measurments : Height including waistband 17cm, width of apron 23cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Used for whole apron
pattern : check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : blue, red, white, yellow, grey
colour – weft : orange, white, red, blue, grey
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : highlights of check weave picked out by white warp made up of two ends side by side/parallel

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to attach skirt to waistband same thread used in machine stitching
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : mercerised?
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : shiny yarn

component : Stitching 2
construction : Machine stitching for turned hem and side. Same thread used for hand stitching
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : mercerised?
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : shiny yarn

item : Blouse
number : D7.4
component : Whole
construction : Blouse of three pieces – 2 x front, 1x back with long sleeves, cuffs, collar, two buttons fastening at CF – both fronts self faced along opening, machine stitched but hand stitched button holes and turned inside edge of collar is hand stitched/hemmed, one popper fastening each cuff hand stitched in place.
measurments : CB 15cm, CF 15cm, sleeve length from top shoulder to end of cuff 14cm, width of cuff 1.5cm,
general observations : Could count as a bed gown?

component : Fabric 1
construction : Printed fabric used for whole
pattern : printed vertical double purple dotted stripe with superimposed black flower repeated design
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 25
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
colour – other : printed purple and black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine stitched seams and hem
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : mercerised?
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : shiny yarn – not analysed but appears same as Apron D7.3

component : Stitching 2
construction : Hand stitched inside edge of collar, button holes, and stitching on of buttons
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip hemming, button hole stitch and cross stitch for buttons
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fastening 1
construction : Two mother of pearl buttons at centre front
measurments : 1cm diameter

component : Fastening 2
construction : One popper on each cuff
measurments : 0.7mm diameter

item : Skirt
number : D7.5
component : Whole
construction : Skirt made of one piece with CB seam, hand stitched, waistband of same fabric folded over gathered skirt. Selvedge down one side of CB open seam.
measurments : CB 23cm, waistband 1.4cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Checked crepe-like fabric in blue/grey used for whole and waistband
pattern : check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : complex weave. alternative picks of plain weave followed by a pick repeating plain weave for 5 ends then a float over 3 ends. Each alternate mixed weave pick is off-set by 4 ends
thread count ends / wales per cm : 18
thread count picks / rows per cm : 19
twist warp : Z, outlines of squares Z black, Z white S plyed
twist weft : Z, outlines of squares Z black, Z white S plyed
fibre – warp : grey – cotton, blue – cotton, black and white outlines cotton.
fibre – warp : grey – cotton, blue – cotton, black and white outlines – cotton.
colour – weft : grey, blue, black white
colour – other : grey, blue, black white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : Complex plain weave with Z and S yarns creates a crepe weave.

component : Stitching 1
construction : Handstitched throughout – CB seam and waistband
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : common thread found everywhere!

component : Stitching 2
construction : Handstitched hem
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip hemming
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton?
colour – other : biege
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : no ends possible for sampling. Micro-photo of knot.

component : Fastening
construction : One popper at CB on waistband
measurments : 0.7mm diameter

item : Underskirt 1
number : D7.6
component : Whole
construction : Blue and white striped underskirt, made in one piece with CB seam. No selvedges. Machine stitched hem and CB seam, waistband of same fabric hand stitched. Button fatening at CB waistband, extra angled piece inserted at LH CB opening – possibly to bind angled upper CB seam into waistband to give more shape to rear – form of bustle? or a mistake?
measurments : CB including waistband 16cm, 1.5cm deep waistband, circumference at hem 35cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Used for whole – blue and white striped fabric
measurments : Stripes are 1/8″ , 3mm wide, made up of 9 ends each.
pattern : vertical stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : blue, white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine stiching – hem and CB open seam
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : cream
finish : ? Mercerized – very shiny
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Hand stiching at waistband
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip hemming
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fastening
construction : Mother of pearl button
measurments : 1cm diameter
material – other : mother of pearl

item : Underskirt 2
number : D7.7
component : Whole
construction : Flannel underskirt made in one piece with CB seam, embroidery around hem and trimmed with lace. Gathered into waistband of contrasting fabric, with button fastneing at CB. Machine stitched CB seam – open seam but folded to Right and herringbone sttiched.
measurments : CB 13.5 including wasitband, circumference at hem 36cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain undyed flannel
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 15
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : compare with other plain cream flannels

component : Fabric 2
construction : Plain weave cotton waistband folded over gathered top edge of underskirt
measurments : 1cm deep
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 38
thread count picks / rows per cm : 34
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Frill
construction : Lace frill around hem
measurments : 2cm wide
pattern : geometric sqaure pattern
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : machine?
twist yarn : ?
material – other : cotton
colour – other : cream
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Embroidery
construction : Embroidery around hem
pattern : feather stitch
technique 1 : embroidered
technique 2 : feather stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S,2I
material – other : cotton
colour – other : cream
finish : mercerised? – shiny
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : “Anchor Stranded”?

component : Stitching 1
construction : CB seam
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Herringbone stitch around hem and down folded over edges of CB seam
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : herringbone stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 3
construction : Buttons and button hole stitching
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : buttonhole stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fastening
construction : Mother of Peart button at CB
measurments : 1cm diameter
material – other : mother of pearl

item : Chemise
number : D7.8
component : Whole
construction : Chemise made in two pieces – front and back, to thigh height,and gathered into round neck line bound with separate strip of same fabric, side seams, no sleeves, machine stitched with French Seams , lace frill to neck line and from shoulders

component : Fabric 1
construction : Used for whole
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 38
thread count picks / rows per cm : 34
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Trimming
construction : Around neck line and shoulders
measurments : ?
pattern : repeating
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : not identified
twist yarn : ?
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine stitching around neckline
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Drawers
number : D7.9
component : Whole
construction : Drawers made of two pieces of cloth with french seams up inside leg to low crutch then open to waist back and front

component : Fabric 1
construction : Used for whole
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 38
thread count picks / rows per cm : 34
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Trimming
construction : Lace used to trim lower edge of drawers
measurments : 1cm wide
pattern : repeating
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : ?
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine stitchedseams french seams – assume same as previous
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Stitching to hem
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip hemming
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Pocket
number : D7.10
component : Whole
construction : Separate pocket made in two pieces to tie around waist.
measurments : height 9.5, max width 6.5

component : Fabric 1
construction : Cotton fabric used for both front and back pieces
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill right
thread count ends / wales per cm : 34
thread count picks / rows per cm : 22
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
colour – other : n/s
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Tape
construction : Used at to fold over top edge of pocket and form a tie around waist – India Tape?
measurments : 1cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : Z,2S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine stiching to join front and back panels with french seam.
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : hand stitched hem around opening and attaching wasitband tape
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch and unidentified
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Stockings
number : D7.11
component : Whole
construction : Pair of black stockings, CB seams machine stitched
measurments : c.5cm high

component : Fabric 1
construction : Black machine knitting?
pattern : none
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : stocking
thread count ends / wales per cm : 10
thread count picks / rows per cm : 11
twist yarn : z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Machine stitching up CB
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : cream/white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Shoes
number : D7.12
component : Whole
construction : Pair of shoes – black with sewn soles, and ankle strap secured with round brass button
measurments : 4cm long

component : Leather
construction : Painted chamois leather used for whole

component : Fastening
construction : Round brass button

component : Stitching 1
construction : Black stitching at CB
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton?
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Cape
number : D7.13
component : Whole
construction : Red hooded cape made of one semicircle of fabric with circular hood piece both and gathered into neck. Neck seam is finished with red ribbon which extends to form a tie under the chin. All edges/hems turned outwards and secured with black feather stitch embroidery
measurments : CB (radius of semi-circle) 29cm

component : Fabric
construction : Red flannel
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : cf other red flannels for cloaks and petticoats.

component : Ribbon
construction : Used to finish neck seam and tie under chin
measurments : 0.7cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : twill right?
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : cotton at selvedge, regenerated cellulose?
fibre – warp : cotton, regenerated cellulose
colour – warp : red and biege in the selvedge
colour – weft : red
finish : mercerised cotton?
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : more analysis needed – complex structure and fibre content.

component : Stitching 1
construction : Feather stitch around edges and hems
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : feather stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : wool
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Hand stitching around neck to attach ribbon
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : S,3Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : pink
finish : mercerized?
microscopic analysis? : no