Welsh costume doll 8

number : D8

D8 Front D8 reverse

Bangor Museum : 1995.58

Costume: Doll with tall hat, cap, two shawls, gown, skirt, 2 underskirts, sleeves, apron, neckerchief, pocket.

Body: Large bisque head doll marked “Madem [Made in?] Germany” with sleeping eyes

Hat: silk plush

Cap: cotton with lace surround

Height: c. 45cm

General observations:  

The gown is long with two buttons at the small of the back. There is a pocket hanging underneath the skirt. The hat has a label consisting of a coat of arms,

Date: mid 19th century?

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Large bisque head doll with sleeping eyes wearing tall hat, cap, two shawls, bedgown, skirt, 2 underskirts, sleeves, apron, neckerchief. Doll marked “Madem Germany”
measurments : c. 45cm high

item : Hat
number : D8.1
component : Whole
construction : Tall tapered hat with brim and black beading used as a hatband. Stiffened and lined. Glued construction
measurments : height of crown 9cm, Circumference of crown base c.23cm, circumference of crown top 14.5cm, Circumference of brim 45cm, depth of brim 3cm
general observations : Appears to be made with true milliner’s materials, but perhaps altered, re-covered at some point.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plush
pattern : napped pile
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : cotton?
fibre – warp : cotton?
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
colour – other : black pile
finish : napped
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : too fine for complete analysis

component : Lining
construction : Lined with cream lustrous silk fabric.
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : cream
colour – weft : cream
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : inaccessible for weave analysis

component : Stiffening Material
construction : Visible inside upper part of crown – khaki/mustard colour fabric – miliner’s buckram?
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : cotton?
fibre – warp : cotton?
colour – warp : khaki/mustard
colour – weft : khaki/mustard
finish : starched or similar – maybe a bonded fabric – milliners buckram?
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : starched or similar – maybe a bonded fabric – milliners buckram?

component : Adhesive
construction : Animal glue?

component : Label
construction : Label inside top of crown – a disc of printed fabric with image of coat of arms – central shield with bird and second bird (identical) standing on top, flanked on left by male figure with leaf waist covering with crown and holding trident in right hand, left hand holding a pole and flag, male figure to right holding pole and flag in right hand, horn in left hand and with mermaid tail from waist down.
measurments : c.3cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : printed, woven
technique 2 : twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
material – other : printed
colour – warp : cream
colour – weft : cream
colour – other : black print
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Hatband
construction : Hand band made of glass beads threaded together on cotton, held in place with a black glass headed pin.
pattern : complex
technique 1 : braided
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : ?
material – other : cotton thread, glass/jet beads, glass headed steel pin
colour – other : undyed thread, black beads
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : cotton thread not analysed

item : Cap
number : D8.2
component : Whole
construction : Cap of plain fabric made from long rectangle of fabric folded around head and gathered into four pannelled insert at back of crown, trimmed with double frill of lace around neck and half way of up side of face, single layer frill over top of head. Hand stitched. Ribbon ties sewn to front corners to tie under chin (broken)
measurments : from CB to CF 11cm (not including lace frill)
general observations : odd thread around folded front edge of cap – indicating previous use of fabric / alterations? S,3Z

component : Fabric 1
construction : Used for whole cap
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 21
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Frills
construction : Lace used for frills
measurments : max 1.7cm wide, scalloped edge
pattern : complex
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : bobbin?
material – other : cotton
colour – other : cream/white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : stained brown discolouration

component : Ribbon
construction : Used to tie under chin
measurments : 0.4cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : satin
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : ?
twist weft : Z,2I
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : cream
colour – weft : cream
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : fine ribbon.

component : Stitching
construction : All hand stitched
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Apron
number : D8.3
component : Whole
construction : Apron made of one piece woven pattern fabric gathered into black ribbon waistband. Selvedge down LH side, all sides turned in by 0.4cm, handstitched. Two lines of gathering stitch still intact just below waistband. Silk used for ties – or perhaps an old tie re-used?
measurments : height 18cm, width18cm
general observations : Silk used for ties – or perhaps an old tie re-used?

component : Fabric 1
construction : Blue fabric with red flame like flowing pattern
pattern : Flame like pattern
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : complex weave structure – not analysed
thread count ends / wales per cm : 40?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : red and blue
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Complex weave not thought worth analysing for scope of this project.

component : Waistband Tape
construction : Black ribbon
measurments : 2.7cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : I
twist weft : I
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Same thread used for hem, down sides, gathering stitches and securing skirt of apron to waistband
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip hemming, gathering stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Bedgown
number : D8.4
component : Whole
construction : Full length bedgown with open front. Right and Left bodice fronts overlap right over left. RH front is pleated to give shape and match the edge on the LH front. Secured at the L front with five steel pins, plus four thorns inserted horizontally. Back bodice panel from neck to waist. Cut-away skirt of bedgown, one piece with two box pleats into waist. Two covered buttons at back waist at top of box pleats. Back bodice attached to front bodice panels with princess line seam from near CB waist to mid arm hole. Elbow-length set-in sleeves. Bodice lined with black fabric. Front edges of back panel turned out, selvedge down RH side. Lower hem corner of RH side folded across corner by 8cm and stiched in place underneath.
measurments : CB 29.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Striped flannel/linsey wolsey used for whole
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 14
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : main warp grey cotton, green stripe – wool, but scales not clearly defined and different shades of green within sample, grey stripe wool but mixed wool, scales not clearly defined
fibre – warp : predominantly wool but maybe some cotton too but might be contaminated sample from warp
colour – warp : main warp grey cotton, green stripe – wool, but scales not clearly defined and different shades of green within sample, grey stripe wool but mixed wool, scales not clearly defined
colour – weft : predominantly black wool but made up of differenct colours visible under microscope – blue, red, yellow, brown.
finish : fulled (shrunk?) and raised
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : Fabric might be made up of resued fibre – shoddy, recycled due to worn scales of wool, mixed fibres and colours in each yarn.

component : Fabric 2
construction : Bodice lining, turned out over end of arm hole.
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/1 twill left
thread count ends / wales per cm : 48
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : S plyed
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : glazed?
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand stitched throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : S plyed
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black/brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Ribbon
construction : Composite ribbon bow at neck CF – not analysed – too degraded

component : Buttons
construction : Two covered buttons at back waist – unknown core material, covered in Fabric 1 D8.4

item : Skirt
number : D8.5
component : Whole
construction : Skirt of two pieces weft stripe cloth, with stripes hanging vertically. Pleated into waistband of black fabric – same as bodice lining, deep hem with “dust tape” seam along lower edge. Seams – french seam pressed to one side and hemmed down? positioned right of CF. and left of CB. Fastening at wasitband – metal hook into loop formed of buttonhole stitch loops. Pleats are unevenly spaced, if seams were set at the sides then more pleated fullness at sides and less at CF and CB?
measurments : CB 22cm including dust tape, circumference of hem – c.66cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Banded / weft stripe flannel
pattern : banded
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 15
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton?
fibre – warp : wool?
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : black, red, grey
finish : loomstate
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : stripe/banded sequence 4 black, 4 red 8 black 4 red 4 black 2 grey 2 black 2 grey 2 black 2 grey 2 black 2 grey 4 black 4 red 8 black 4 red 4 black 38 grey. Noted flaw in the weave in one grey stripe in back – one pick inserted instead of two. Compare this flannel with D3.5

component : Waistband tape
construction : black fabric – assumed same as lining of bedgown bodice

component : Hem Tape
construction : Dust tape – along hem
measurments : 2cm wide
pattern : bias twill effect.
technique 1 : braided
technique 2 : plaited?
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand stitched
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, slip hemming and oversewing.
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Remains of black machine stitching towards CB seam ?
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch?
twist yarn : ?
material – other : cotton?
colour – other : black
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Was this fabric used for something else – re-used, altered from some machine stitch garment?

item : Pocket
number : D8.6
component : Whole
construction : Pocket of undyed chamois leather and fabric on a tape waistband tie which goes twice around waist and tied in reef knot at CF. Between skirt and petticoat 1. Position of pocket explains why seam and opening of skirt is not CB but off set to the front right.
measurments : 6cm deep plus waistband

component : Leather
construction : Chamois leather used for main pocket structure

component : Fabric
construction : Fabric used for top half of pocket.
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 22
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton?
colour – warp : cream
colour – weft : cream
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes – warp only
general observations : looked a little like union fabric

component : Tape
construction : used as waistband
measurments : 1.8cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 17
twist warp : Z
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : cream
colour – weft : cream
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used in construction – hand stiched
pattern : none
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : unidentified
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : cream
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Underskirt
number : D8.7
component : Whole
construction : Plain cream flannel underskirt made in two pieces, Seam – flat stitched with running stitch then folded over and herringbone stitched, hem is herringbone stitched, waistband of wide cream fabric. No fastening – almost looks too small for the doll

component : Fabric 1
construction : Cream flannel
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 15
thread count picks / rows per cm : 11
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : cream
colour – weft : cream
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Waistband tape
construction : Tape forms waistband and folds over gathered top of skirt section.
measurments : 2cm deep – folded over the gathered top edge
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 13
thread count picks / rows per cm : 10
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : linen
fibre – warp : linen
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used in seam construction and herringbone stitch
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running and herringbone stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : linen
colour – other : cream
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : not sure ID is correct – surely cotton?

item : Chemise
number : D8.8
component : Whole
construction : Short thigh length chemise in cream flannel, made made up of front and back panels and two side panels on each side. Open seams, laid to one side and herringbone stitched. Single fold for hem – herringbone stitched.
measurments : back and front width at hem 16.5cm, side panels c.3.5cm at hem.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Cream flannel
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 15
thread count picks / rows per cm : 11
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : cream
colour – weft : cream
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : same fabric as petticoat 1

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used in seam construction and herringbone stitch
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running and herringbone stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : linen
colour – other : cream
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : not sure ID is correct – surely cotton?

item : Sleeves
number : D8.9
component : Whole
construction : Floral printed silk hand stitch sleeves to elbow, flat seams

component : Fabric 1
construction : Printed woven silk
pattern : floral print
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Badly degraded – not much left to analyse. Using scraps from bit box? Maybe the same source as the apron?

component : Stitching 1
general observations : not accessible for analysis

item : Shawl 1
number : D8.10
component : Whole
construction : Long red shawl with black bound ends. Long sides turned and herringbone stitched.
measurments : 37.5 x 9.5cm

component : Fabric
construction : Red Flannel
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 14
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Black ribbon used to bind ends
measurments : 1.5 cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : too fine to count
thread count picks / rows per cm : too fine to count
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching1
construction : Herringbone stitch along edges
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : herringbone
twist yarn : S,3Z
material – other : silk
colour – other : pink
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching 2
construction : Hemming stitch to attach ribbon over ends
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip hemming
twist yarn : Z,3S?
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Shawl 2
number : D8.11
component : Whole
construction : Square fringed shawl folded in half diagonally wrapped around neck to create V at back over bedgown, fronts cross over and are tucked down inside bedgown bodice.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Checked fabric with 3cm fringed edges
pattern : check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill right
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : S plus supplementary Z,3S orange
twist weft : S plus supplementary Z3S orange
fibre – warp : wool, orange cotton
fibre – warp : wool, orange cotton
colour – warp : Khaki, white, light grey, dark grey, orange
colour – weft : Khaki, white, grey, orange
finish : raised
general observations : Stripe pattern, 2 white;8 light grey; 8 dark grey; 4 khaki, 1 end/pick in orange, white, khaki;then mirrored back . Stripes interspersed with bands of plain khaki – warp and weft same colour.

item : Fichu
number : D8.12
component : Whole
construction : Plain silk fichu worn around neck

component : Fabric
construction : Fine silk organza type?
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
twist yarn : ?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : cream/green
colour – weft : cream/green
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : fine silk – same source as apron and sleeves.

item : Socks
number : D8.13
component : Whole
construction : Pair of knitted socks to just below knee, in brown and cream wool, with tape “”garters”
measurments : 5cm from top of shoe to top of sock

component : Fabric 1
construction : Knitting
pattern : two bands of colour
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : stocking
thread count ends / wales per cm : 4
thread count picks / rows per cm : 6
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : wool
colour – other : brown and cream yarn
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : check difference between sock and stocking – this definitely feels more like a sock.

component : Tape
construction : Used as a garter
measurments : 0.9cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : cream
colour – weft : cream
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : India tape

item : Shoes
number : D8.14
component : Whole
construction : Flat patent leather(?) shoes, high up the ankle with ribbon tie at CF. Leather soles . Stiched construction with seam up CB. Compare shoes with D3.13.
measurments : Sole length -6cm long, heel to top of CB of shoe – 2.5cm

component : Leather
construction : Black patent leather or thickly coated canvas – compare with D3.13 – very similar
material – other : leather
colour – other : black
finish : high sheen

component : Ribbon
construction : Black ribbon used to tie at CF
measurments : 1.1cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : ? Fine
thread count picks / rows per cm : 32
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : warp is too fine to count.

component : Stitching 1
construction : Must be sewn construction from inside but none visible.
technique 1 : hand sewn?
technique 2 : ?
twist yarn : ?
material – other : ?
colour – other : ?
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fastening
construction : Brass eyelet at CF edges – two on each shoe
measurments : 0.3cm, diameter.

component : Trimming
construction : Narrow braid applied around edges of shoe
measurments : c.0.3mm wide
pattern : gimp type pattern
technique 1 : braided
technique 2 : ?
twist yarn : ?
material – other : cotton?
colour – other : undyed but black surface
finish : pigmented/ polished
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : More comparison needed?

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