Welsh costume doll 9

number : D9

D9 Front D9 reverse

Ceredigion Museum : 2003/107/1-12

Costume: Tall hat, cap, three red shawls, skirt, apron, underskirt, bustle-train, neckerchief.

Body: Gesso layered wooden head and body

Hat: silk plush

Cap: lace

Height: 28cm

General observations: This is in poor condition, but one of the few which could be undressed, thus exposing the body. There is no gown or bedgown, but it has three red shawls.

Date: mid 19th century?

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Doll with gesso layered wooden head and body, dressed in tall hat, cap, three red shawls, skirt, apron, underskirt, bustle-train, neckerchief.
measurements : Height – 28cm
general observations : Previously this doll had been undressed in order to sew on museum inventory labels. Stitching, holding all garments in place had been cut, although threads have been saved in a sample bag. There is evidence of the position of these stitches which held the shawls in place. Museum catalogue describes the hat and shawls being sewn in place with cotton.

item : Hat
number : D9.1
component : Whole
construction : Tall hat with tapered crown and brim, hatband of black ribbon, adhered construction – no stitching.
measurements : height of crown 5cm, Circumference of crown base 13cm, circumference of crown top 9cm, Circumference of brim 24cm, depth of brim 2cm
general observations : Museum catalogue describes fabric as brushed felt (now established as ‘plush’.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Black plush used to cover whole hat – crown top, crown side, upper brim, under brim.
pattern : piled fabric
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain with pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : cotton?
fibre – warp : cotton?
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
colour – other : black
finish : napped
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Presumed same as all others analysed – fine weave of woven cotton ground fits perfectly with Waugh definition

component : Stiffening Material
construction : Buckram just visible in inside of crown top – not analysed
general observations : not possible to analyse as difficult to access

component : Lining
construction : Paper stuck around inside of crown – not analysed
general observations : not possible to analyse as difficult to access, noted as ‘newspaper’ in museum catalogue.

component : Hatband
construction : Hatband of black ribbon tied twice around base of crown and finished in a bow.
measurements : 0.7cm wide
pattern : selvedge decorative
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : selvedge quite prominent and decorative

component : Adhesive
construction : Unknown – animal glue?

item : Cap
number : D9.2
component : Whole
construction : Cap made up of one strip of lace, folded in half (face- side inwards) to create a double layer then roughly sewn up the back to make a cap
measurements : lace is 8cm wide
general observations : Museum catalogue describes this headgear as a ‘bonnet’. Prefer to use the term ‘cap’ Also describes white cotton used to tie cap in place around neck.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Lace – a mesh (hexagonal) with applied thick cotton embroidery – machine?
measurements : 8cm wide
pattern : floral
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : machine?
twist yarn : ?
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Rough hand stitching up the back
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not identified
twist weft : n/
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Shawl 1
number : D9.3
component : Whole
construction : Square shawl folded diagonally across the centre. One piece of red fabric with evidence of previous machine stitching around all 4 sides. Selvedge along one side, Some loose threads in centre of shawl – previous attachment?
measurements : 20 x 20cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : crepe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not counted
thread count picks / rows per cm : not counted
twist warp : alternating ends of z and s
twist weft : I
fibre – warp : regenerated cellulose
fibre – warp : regenerated cellulose
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching 1
construction : Evidence of previous machine stitching around edge – a 1cm folded hem, machine stitch holes along fold.
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch, imprint only
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Remains of hand stitching
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not identified
twist yarn : S,6Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : red
finish : mercerised
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : shiny, lustrous thread – Silko type?

item : Shawl 2
number : D9.4
component : Whole
construction : Triangular shawl in one piece. Selvedge along one straight side, turned narrow 3mm hem machined stitched along the straight edge sides. Diagonal edge is bias cut and unfinished.
measurements : Straight side 24 x 24cm

component : Fabric
construction : Red cotton fabric
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill right
thread count ends / wales per cm : 34
thread count picks / rows per cm : 36
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching 1
construction : White (upper) / pink (lower) machine stitching along one straight edge
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : S,2Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white and pink
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Remains of stitching as in D9.3, along folds in the diagonal
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not identified
twist yarn : S,6Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : red
finish : mercerised
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : shiny, lustrous thread – Silko type?

item : Shawl 3
number : D9.5
component : Whole
construction : Thick flannel triangular shoulder shawl. 1cm folded hem on straight sides, hand stitched
measurements : 14 x 14cm

component : Fabric
construction : Flannel
measurements : 14 x 14cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 9
thread count picks / rows per cm : 10
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : raised -(but very worn)
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : assumed straighter yarn is the warp although less per cm than weft

component : Stitching
construction : Running stitch along hems
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Remains of stitching along diagonal folds- hand stitched
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not identified
twist yarn : S,6Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : red
finish : mercerised
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : very shiny, lustrous thread – Silko type?

component : Stitching 2
construction : Remains of black hand stitching threads at diagonal corners
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not identified
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Skirt
number : D9.6
component : Whole
construction : Striped long skirt made in one piece with open seam hand stitched up CB, gathered into waist, 1cm single folded hem. No waist band – just a cut raw edge.
measurements : CB 19cm, circumference at he, c.40cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Striped flannel or linsey wolsey with weft stripe, cut with warp running horizontally
pattern : Weft-striped (banded)
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 15
twist warp : z
twist weft : s
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : red and brown(made up of yellow, brown and green fibres)
finish : none, loomstate
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : brown weft – shoddy? – mixture of coloured wool fibres therefore not dyed in the yarn.

component : Stitching 1
construction : Running stitch along hem and securing gathers at waist.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Darning in worn area at front hem – same black thread as found on shawl 3
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : darning
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Underskirt
number : D9.7
component : Whole
construction : underskirt cut in one piece with hem up CB, hand stitched, slightly gathered at front, much fullness at the CB, gathered together to create bustle form. No waistband – just cut raw edge
measurements : c. 16cm height, circumference at hem c.34cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Printed cotton
pattern : spotted
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 23
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
colour – other : brown print with white dots
finish : starched?
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Brown hand stitched throughout.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not identified
twist weft : Z,6S
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Bustle-train
number : D9.8
component : Whole
construction : Rectangular or tongue-shaped piece of cloth turned by about 1cm and hemmed on three sides. One short side pleated to waist, sewn to back of underskirt
measurements : height c.16cm, width c.12cm
general observations : Museum Catalogue describes a red jacket with brown ‘tail’ – ‘a sort of bedgown’. Is this refering to Shawl 3 and this bustle-train ?

component : Fabric 1
construction : Flannel or linsey wolsey, – warp runs horizontally
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 14
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton with some wool fibres
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown cotton, red, yellow and blue wool fibres
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : shoddy cloth? – weft thread contains a mixture of wool and cotton fibres of different colours so was not dyed in the yarn.

component : Stitching 1
construction : Running stitch used around hem
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist weft : Z,6S
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Apron
number : D9.9
component : Whole
construction : Apron of one piece of cloth, turned and hemmed on all sides, gathered to waist, but no waistband – just a cut raw edge. Sewn to skirt with more modern looking thread
measurements : 18cm height x 14cm width

component : Fabric
construction : Checked fabric
pattern : check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : Repeat of 7 undyed, 7 brown,
colour – weft : Repear of 8 undyed, 8 brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : hand stitching around hemmed sides
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not identified
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Fichu
number : D9.10
component : Whole
construction : Piece of muslin wrapped around neck and waist. With selvege down one long side
measurements : ?

component : Fabric 1
construction : Muslin strip
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : ?
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : ?
twist weft : ?
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : starched?
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : not analysed

item : String
number : D9.11
component : String
construction : String tied around waist
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : jute?
colour – other : biege
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : not sure of function of this string. Noted in museum catalogue.