Welsh costume doll D13

number : D13

D13 front D13 reverse

Hereford Museum: 3671

Costume: hat, cap, gown, apron, skirt, neckerchief, underskirt, baby in swaddling with baby-carrier, stockings, boots, basket with knitting.

Body: Papier-mâché /wood doll

Hat: silk plush

Cap: muslin with net trim

General observations: The gown is not a detachable garment but constructed on the doll in separate parts.

Height including hat: 37cm

Date: late 19th century?

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Papier-mache/wood doll with clothes, comprising: hat, cap, bedgown, apron, skirt, neckerchief, underskirt, baby in swaddling with baby-carrier, stockings, boots, basket with knitting.
measurements : Height including hat: 37cm

item : Hat
number : D13.1
component : Whole
construction : Stove-pipe hat, not tapered, with flat crown, broad brim, hatband. Secured with tack to head.
measurements : Crown sides 4.8cm; crown tip circumference 9.5cm; brim depth 2.5cm; brim circ. 24cm.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Outer covering of plush, adhered to stiffening layer
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain with pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
twist yarn : not detected
fibre – warp : bast
fibre – warp : bast
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : black pile
finish : brushed

component : Stiffening Material
construction : Not visible

component : Hatband
construction : Narrow braid stitched above brim, wrapped around hat, with bow.
measurements : 7mm width
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : left hand twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black

component : Stitching
construction : Hand-sewn throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running & slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Cap
number : D13.2
component : Whole
construction : A muslin cap, with double layer of net trim around edges, also narrow silk ribbon decoration.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Muslin
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : stiffening

component : Fabric 2
construction : Net trim
measurements : 1cm width
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : net
twist yarn : not detected
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : stiffening

component : Ribbon
construction : Decorative ribbon used to finish around edges, to tie under chin and to form two folds at sides of face.
measurements : 1cm width
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : satin
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : blue

component : Stitching
construction : Hand sewn throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Apron
number : D13.3
component : Whole
construction : A rectangle of linen/cotton check, pleated at top edge into waistband ties, hemmed on three sides.
measurements : CF:20.5cm; lower edge:21.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Blue/white check
measurements : 4mm repeat
pattern : check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton & linen?
fibre – warp : Linen?
colour – warp : warp repeat: 2 white, 4 blue
colour – weft : weft repeat: 2 white, 4 blue
finish : loomstate

component : Waistband Tape
construction : A strip of unfinished cotton cambric stitched to apron front at top edge & forming ties
measurements : approx. 1cm width
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching
construction : Hand running stitch throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : bast
colour – other : white
finish : possibly glazed

item : Bedgown
number : D13.4
component : Whole
construction : The bedgown is not a detachable garment but constructed on the doll in separate parts, comprised of two sleeves and a tail in one fabric; and a bodice part in a second fabric, concealed at the front under the neckerchief and apron but visible on the back. The bedgown does not extend around the front and therefore has no front opening. The sleeves are formed from tubes of fabric, the tail is pleated at the top edge into the bodice and shaped at the lower edge into a ‘bee’ shape. Sleeve seams are folded & top stitched; they are not attached to the bodice but stitched directly onto the doll. The tail has single-turn hems and is crudely stitched.
measurements : Tail length: 17cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Sleeves and tail in linsey-wolsey weft stripe, hanging vertically
measurements : stripe repeat:2.3cm
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 14
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z,2S
fibre – warp : linen
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : weft repeat: 2 red, 4 blue, 2 red, 10 black, 4red, 10 black.
general observations : Frequent errors in the weave

component : Fabric 2
construction : Bodice
measurements : CB: 4.5cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand running stitch throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Skirt
number : D13.5
component : Whole
construction : A rectangle of fabric, seamed at CB, gathered at waist & stitched onto doll. Selvage at lower edge.
measurements : CB: 20.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Weft stripe cotton hanging vertically.
measurements : Stripe repeat: 7mm
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : stripe repeat: 8 blue, 6 pink

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand running stitch at CB seam
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Underskirt
number : D13.6
component : Whole
construction : A rectangle of cotton, seamed at left hand side & gathered at waist, stitched into doll. Hemmed at lower edge.
measurements : CF: 18cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : White cotton
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
general observations : Particles in the interstices of the weave – possible pigment/print residue? White.

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand running stitch throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Neckerchief
number : D13.7
component : Whole
construction : A rectangle of ‘tartan’ cloth, unfinished at edges, folded diagonally around neck and pinned into waist front of doll.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Tartan
measurements : 8.5cm check repeat
pattern : check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 right hand twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : a full warp repeat is not visible; colours as for weft
colour – weft : weft repeat: 8 red, 4 brown, 10 red, 12 blue, 4 white, 4 brown, 4 yellow, 12 brown, 6 white, 8 blue, 10 white, 8 pink, 10 white, 8 blue, 6 white, 12 brown, 4 yellow, 4 brown, 4 white, 12 blue, 10 red, 4 brown, 8 red, 4 white

item : Baby carrier
number : D13.8
component : Whole
construction : Fragment of unfinished cloth, wrapped around doll to hold baby in place.
measurements : 34cm length

component : Fabric 1
construction : Fulled wool
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 14
thread count picks / rows per cm : 14
twist warp : S,2Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : brown/white plied in 1 yarn
colour – weft : brown
finish : raised
general observations : The brown/white plied yarn in the warp gives a flecked appearance to the cloth

item : Swaddling
number : D13.9
component : Whole
construction : A scrap of cotton wrapped and stitched around baby doll.

component : Fabric 1
construction : White cotton; where this has been protected by the baby carrier, a white pigment printed onto the surface is extant, coating one side.
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : pigmented/printed in white
general observations : Fabric is same as petticoat

item : Stockings
number : D13.10
component : Whole
construction : Scraps of fabric wrapped around lower legs and oversewn at CB. The foot part cannot be seen.
measurements : Tope to heel: 8cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Black wool twill
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/1 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : brown

component : Stitching 1
construction : Oversewn at CB
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over-sewn
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Shoes
number : D13.11
component : Whole
construction : Black fabric ankle boots stitched onto doll
measurements : Heel/toe:2.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Black silk repp
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not deected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand sewn at CF and CB
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown