Welsh costume doll D14

number : D14

D14 front D14 reverse

Hereford Museum : 4918

Costume: hat, bedgown, apron, skirt, underskirt, chemise, corset, drawers, neckerchief, socks

Body: Wax

Hat: Silk plush and contains a label. ‘French & English toy repository, J Ewins, Hair cutter, dresser & perfumier, High Street, Cardiff’.

Height: without hat: 68cm

General observations: The gown is in one piece and is lined with white cotton. The edges are finished with narrow silk tape. In T J Llewellyn’s novel The Adventures and Vagaries of Twm Shôn Catti (1828) which described varieties of costumes in south Wales, he recorded that adult gowns in Cardiganshire were bound at the bottom with red or blue tape.

Date: mid to late 19th century ?

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Wax doll with set of clothes comprising: hat, bedgown, apron, skirt, underskirt, chemise, corset, drawers, neckerchief, socks.
measurements : Height of doll without hat: 68cm

item : Hat
number : D14.1
component : Whole
construction : Tapered stove-pipe, with broad brim, flat crown, hatband, narrow braid trim to brim edge. Interior label reads ‘French & English toy repository, J Ewins, Hair cutter, dresser & perfumier,High Street, Cardiff’. Lined.
measurements : Crown sides 9.8cm; crown tip circumference 20cm; brim depth 5cm; brim circ.62cm.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Outer covering of plush, adhered to stiffening layer
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain with pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
twist yarn : not detected
fibre – warp : bast
fibre – warp : bast
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : black pile
finish : brushed

component : Fabric 2
construction : Crown lining of glazed cotton/chintz
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : glazed

component : Stiffening Material
construction : buckram
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : unbleached
colour – weft : unbleached
finish : dressed

component : Hatband
construction : Narrow tape secured around crown base in a bow.
measurements : 1.4cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain repp
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : 40
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black

component : Stitching
construction : Hand sewn throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running and slip stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Apron
number : D14.2
component : Whole
construction : Rectangle of wool check, pleated into waistband tape. Hemmed on three sides, with selvage at lower hem. Original silk waistband tape has been covered with a later cotton tape.
measurements : CF: 36.5cm. Lower edge: 66cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Black and white check flannel
measurements : check repeat: 1cm
pattern : check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 15
thread count picks / rows per cm : 15
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : warp repeat: 2 black, 2 white, 2 b, 10w.
colour – weft : weft repeat: 2 black, 2 white, 2 b, 12 w.
finish : none
general observations : Frequent flaws in the weave

component : Fabric 2
construction : Waistband. Narrow tape holding pleats at top edge, no ties extant.
measurements : 1cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
twist yarn : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching
construction : Hand slip-stitched throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Bedgown
number : D14.3
component : Whole
construction : Front-opening bedgown with 3/4 length sleeves, constructed as follows: skirt/tail shaped at lower front corners, pleated into waistband and attached to bodice. Bodice formed from two front & one back panels, fastening at CF with five metal hooks & eyes, darts on front panels. Sleeves are one piece each, seamed at CF, ruched cuff at seam. Bodice & sleeves are lined with cotton. All edges are finished with narrow silk tape.
measurements : CB neck to lwer edge: 44.5cm. CF bodice: 11.5cm. Sleeve: 12cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Striped linsey-wolsey, hanging vertically
measurements : stripe repeat:6cm
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 10
thread count picks / rows per cm : 30
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : linen/cotton
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : stripe repeat: 4 white, 10 red, 4 white, 165 dark blue

component : Fabric 2
construction : Narrow tape finishing edges
measurements : 1cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : pink
colour – weft : pink

component : Fabric 3
construction : Lining to bodice & sleeves
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching 1
construction : Construction stitching, hand running stitched throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

component : Stitching 2
construction : Thread securing finishing tape: hand sewn running & slip-stitch
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running and slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : pink

item : Skirt
number : D14.4
component : Whole
construction : Skirt in one piece, seamed CB, gathered into waistband, finished lower edge with narrow tape.
measurements : CB: 41.5cm. Hem circ: 95.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Striped linsey-wolsey, hanging vertically
measurements : stripe repeat:6cm
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 10
thread count picks / rows per cm : 30
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : linen/cotton
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : stripe repeat: 4 white, 10 red, 4 white, 165 dark blue

component : Fabric 2
construction : Narrow tape finishing edges
measurements : 1cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : pink
colour – weft : pink

component : Fabric 3
construction : Holding gathered skirt at waist, no ties
measurements : 3cm deep
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching 1
construction : Construction stitching, hand running stitched throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

component : Stitching 2
construction : Thread securing finishing tape: hand stitched running & slip-stitch
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running and slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : pink

item : Underskirt
number : D14.5
component : Whole
construction : Striped flannel underskirt, in one piece joined at RHS by butting two selvages together and oversewing. Slashed back opening, gathered at waist into waistband. Finished lower edge with narrow tape.
measurements : CB:39cm. Hem circ.(hence fabric width): 37.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Warp stripe flannel
measurements : stripe repeat:7mm
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 13
thread count picks / rows per cm : 11
twist warp : Z & I
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : warp repeat: 2 red, 2 white, 2 black, 2 white
colour – weft : white
general observations : uneven texture with many flaws in the weave

component : Fabric 2
construction : as bedgown

component : Waistband tape
construction : Holding gathered skirt at waist, no ties
measurements : 3cm deep
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand slip-stitching/oversewing throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch & over-sewn
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Chemise
number : D14.6
component : Whole
construction : White cotton chemise, short sleeves, slips over head with no opening front or back. Flaps at Neck back and front fold down to conceal corset.
measurements : CF from top of flap: 45.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : White cotton
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand slip-stitching throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Drawers
number : D14.7
component : Whole
construction : White cotton drawers, opening CB & CF

component : Fabric 1
construction : as chemise

component : Stitching
construction : as chemise

item : Corset
number : D14.8
component : Whole
construction : A tailored corset with whalebone(?) stiffening, laced at back opening through eyelets; shoulder straps; finished with narrow tape.
measurements : CF:13.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Main corset cotton fabric
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : sateen
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown

component : Fabric 2
construction : Finishing tape
measurements : 1cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown

component : Fabric 3
construction : Lace at back opening
measurements : 6mm
pattern : none
technique 1 : plait
twist yarn : S
material – other : wool
colour – other : white

component : Stitching
construction : Hand sewn backstitch/slipstitch throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : back stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Neckerchief
number : D14.9
component : Whole
construction : Printed rectangle, most likely cut from larger scarf, with paisley and floral motifs, folded diagonally and knotted at neck. One selvage, other edges hemmed.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Printed silk
pattern : paisley & floral
technique 1 : woven/plain
technique 2 : print
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 36
twist warp : I
twist weft : I
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – other : red/black/brown print

component : Stitching
construction : Running stitch on hems
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Stockings
number : D14.10
component : Whole
construction : Knitted socks, fully-fashioned without sewing, with ribbed top
measurements : sole:6.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Knitted stripe
measurements : stripe repeat: 5mm
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : 2/2 rib, stocking stitch
thread count ends / wales per cm : 8
thread count picks / rows per cm : 8
twist yarn : Z
material – other : wool
colour – other : brown & yellow