Welsh costume doll D15

 

D15 front D15 reverse a

NMW, St Fagans : 26.489

Costume: hat, cap, apron, bedgown, skirt, petticoat, neckerchief, shawl, & attached knitting.

Body: Made in Sonneberg, Germany. Handstitched, leather body stuffed with an unidentified material. The head and shoulder plate are Papier-mâché composition with painted facial features and hair. The lower part of the legs are made from wood, The arms are all wood, articulated at the elbow and joined at the shoulder.

Baby: swathed wooden baby with painted facial features and a peak of hair.

Hat: silk plush

Cap: Cotton with lace trim

Height: 26cm excluding hat, baby is 8cm long

General observations:  The long gown is made of red and navy blue houndstooth pattern flannel with the tail tie up at the back.

date: c 1845 (dated by Tecwyn Vaughan Jones)

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Female doll (German made) with a handstitched, leather body stuffed with an unidentified material. The head and shoulder plate are papier mache composition with painted facial features and hair, The eyes are blue with black pupils, pink cheeks and lips, black eyebrows and eye outline. The face is a flesh colour and a layer of varnish is also present. The lower part of the legs are made from wood, painted white at the thigh and black from the knee down, with some blue paint showing through. They are joined to the leather with a red adhesive tape. The arms are all wood, articulated at the elbow and joined at the shoulder. The hands are simply carved with a seperate thumb. They are painted cream and varnished. Carrying a swathed wooden baby with painted facial features and a peak of hair. Set of clothes comprising: hat, cap, apron, bedgown, skirt, petticoat, neckerchief, shawl, & attached knitting.
measurements : Height 26cm excluding hat, baby is 8cm long
general observations : c 1845 dated by Tecwyn Vaughan Jones

item : Hat
number : D15.1
component : Whole
construction : Tall hat with tapered crown, constructed from card, which is visible on the inside. Crown and outer brim are covered in one fabric and the underside of the brim is covered in a second fabric made in three pieces. Hatband tied in a bow.
measurements : Height of crown 5cm circumference of crown top 7cm circumference of crown base 11cm circumference of brim 23cm depth of brim 2cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven with a pile of a different material
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain with pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 5
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : Brown
colour – weft : Brown
colour – other : Black
finish : None
microscopic analysis? : Yes

component : Stiffening Material
construction : The crown is constructed from two pieces of white cardboard, one large and one small strip as if to increase the size. The crown tip and brim are made from green coloured cardboard.
technique 1 : Non woven
technique 2 : Stitched together
finish : None
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Hatband
construction : Hatband fastened around the base of the crown looped at the front to create a false bow and secured with a stitch through the bow and into the hat.
measurements : Width approx 0.8cm
technique 1 : woven
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : fulled
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Long stitches holding the cardboard pieces together
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over stitch, tacking stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching 2
construction : Attaching the brim to the crown
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : mercerised cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Cap
number : D15.2
component : Whole
construction : The crown is made from one piece and gathered at the back of the head with a stitch. The edge is trimmed with lace and decorated with ribbons
measurements : Width 6cm length including ribbons 8.5cm depth 2cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Fairly open weave muslin
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 22
thread count picks / rows per cm : 25
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Three narrow picot ribbons, one at the crown, covering the gather stitch, one trimming the edge and one at the nape of neck, which has longer ends.
measurements : The longest ribbon measures approx 6cm and the one at the edge approx 4.5cm. It is not possible to measure the tied ribbons. They are all 8mm wide including the loops.
technique 1 : woven
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20 per 8mm width
twist warp : no spin detected
twist weft : no spin detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
material – other : none
colour – warp : pale blue
colour – weft : pale blue
colour – other : none
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Gathering the cap at the crown and attaching the trimmings.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : back stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Apron
number : D15.3
component : Whole
construction : Checked apron bound along the top with a tape which is tied in a double knot around the waist. There is a selvedge on the dolls right side and the two other edges are turned twice.
measurements : Waist to hem 14cm width at hem 13cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Mixed fibre, two colour checked woven fabric
pattern : checked
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 15
thread count picks / rows per cm : 15
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z spun
fibre – warp : wool and cotton
fibre – warp : wool and cotton
colour – warp : warp repeat: 8 white, 8 blue
colour – weft : weft repeat: 8 white, 8 blue
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Fabric 2
construction : Plain woven tape binding top edge of apron
measurements : Width 1.5cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 21
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : stitching on the hem, right side and attaching the tape to the apron
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch
twist yarn : 2 Z spun S plyed
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Bedgown
number : D15.4
component : Whole
construction : Red and navy blue houndstooth flannel, in a small scale . The gown is a long, open fronted style made from one piece of fabric with separate, full length sleeves. The corners at the hem are tacked to the back of the gown, the neckline is gathered in to shape and the front of the bodice is sewn closed.
measurements : Nape of neck to hem 20cm width at hem approx 24cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Twill weave, houndstooth pattern created in red and blue (flannel)
pattern : Houndstooth pattern
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 13
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : Z,2S
twist weft : Z,2S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : warp repeat: 2 blue, 2 red
colour – weft : weft repeat: 2 blue, 2 red
colour – other : none
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : ET: JB observed possible mohair, possible shoddy fibre

component : Stitching 1
construction : Stitching on hem and construction of bodice and sleeves
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch
twist yarn : Z,4S
material – other : linen
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Stitching at wrists of sleeves and hem of gown
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : S,2Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Skirt
number : D15.5
component : Whole
construction : Striped flannel skirt made in one piece with a CB seam, double turned hem. No waistband, just raw edge a and tacking stitch to hold it in place
measurements : length 14cm inner circumference of hem 26cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Navy blue/red wool flannel
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 33
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : warp repeat: 3 blue, 3 red
colour – weft : navy blue
colour – other : none
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching 1
construction : Stitching along the hem and centre back seam
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching 2
construction : Tacking stitch at waist
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : S,2Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Underskirt
number : D15.6
component : Whole
construction : Undyed underskirt made in one piece with a double hem and French seam at centre back. A thread has been wrapped around the waist to secure it.
measurements : length approx 12cm inner circumference of hem 23.5

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain weave fabric
pattern : none
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 33
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
colour – other : none
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Undyed sewing thread, stitching along hem and seam
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Neckerchief
number : D15.7
component : Whole
construction : Neckerchief crossed over the shoulders and neck, tucked into the front of the bodice. It is not clear how far down it extends.
measurements : Not measured

component : Fabric 1
construction : Fine undyed muslin gathered into pleats and tucked into the bodice, stitched at the front to hold the pleats in place
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : ?
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
colour – other : none
finish : possibly starched
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Tacking stitch under chin
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Baby’s dress
number : D15.8
component : Whole
construction : Printed gown with a centre back French seam and gathered around the neck, sleeves sewn at the shoulder and a thread wrapped around the waist
measurements : length 16.3 cm inner circumference 17cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Printed plain weave
pattern : tiny flower motif approx 0.3cm x 0.4cm
technique 1 : Printed
technique 2 : woven, plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 17
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
colour – other : red and purple print
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Stitching along the hem and centre back seam
technique 1 : slip stitch
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Long thread just wrapped around waist
twist yarn : S,2Z
material – other : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Baby’s cap
number : D15.9
component : Whole
construction : Small piece of lace used to make a cap for the baby
measurements : Not measured

component : Fabric 1
construction : lace is very similar to that around the adult cap
technique 1 : lace
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : possibly starched
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Is the lace an off cut from the bonnet or made specifically for the baby.

item : Shawl
number : D15.10
component : Whole
construction : long shawl used to wrap and hold the baby. It is folded in half wrapped over the left shoulder, under the right arm and crossed in the front. At the back, both ends are sewn to the bedgown
measurements : Width 8cm length approx 56cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red wool flannel with raised surface plain weave
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 10
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching
construction : 2 stitches attaching the ends of the shawl to the back of the bedgown
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : S,2Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : knitting
number : D15.11
component : Whole
construction : Circular knitting attached to the shawl as if being knitted by the doll
measurements : length 3.5cm width 2.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Knitting
pattern : none
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : stocking stitch
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 30
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : No knitting needles and ball of wool but there is a stitch next to the knitting which could be where this was once attached

component : Stitching
construction : Stitching attaching the knitting to the shawl
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : S,2Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

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