Welsh costume doll D16

number : D16

D16 front D16 reverse

NMW, St Fagans : 34.306.9

Costume: cap, apron, bedgown, skirt, petticoat, chemise, neckerchief, stockings, shoes, shawl, choker.

Body: Wax composition head and shoulders, a fabric body and limbs stuffed with an unidentified material, probably woodchip or straw. The hands are pink leather. The hair is grey and secured into a fabric cap.

Baby: It is possible that NMW 34.306.12 is the baby that belongs with this doll.

Hat: none

Cap: net trimmed with lace

Height : 40cm

General observations: The back of the gown and the back of the gown have red tape edging.

Date: said to date to about 1809

Provenance and History: Belonged to the donor’s grandmother, Mrs Robert Owen (1799-1852). She was mayoress of Welshpool in 1847-8. According to the donor, her grandmother owned it as a child in circa 1809. She also claims that it was exhibited at one of the Paris exhibitions of the 1890s – “forty years ago”.

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

NMW, St Fagans : 34.306.9
item : Doll
number : D16
component : Whole
construction : Female doll with clothing comprised of: cap, apron, bedgown, skirt, petticoat, chemise, neckerchief, stockings, shoes, shawl, choker. Wax composition head and shoulders, a fabric body and limbs stuffed with an unidentified material, probably woodchip or straw. The hands are pink leather and have three fingers and one thumb on each hand. The eyes are blue glass and the other facial features are painted underneath the wax layer, red lips, pink cheeks, black eyebrows. The hair is grey and secured into a fabric cap.
measurements : length 40cm
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : Associated object: it is possible that 34.306.12 is the baby that belongs with this doll.

item : Wig
number : D16.1
component : Whole
construction : The hair consists of two different grey fibres and has been sewn in to a wig using a cotton fabric base to stitch into.

component : Hair
construction : Hair: the dark grey fibre is synthetic probably added later and the lighter grey is animal hair
material – other : Hair: the dark grey fibre is sythetic, the lighter grey is animal hair
colour – other : Grey
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : The dark grey fibre was probably added later

component : Fabric 1
construction : Fabric cap covering the back and sides of the head and secured into the wax with pins.
measurements : length approx 11.5cm
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : not recorded
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
material – other : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Cap
number : D16.2
component : Whole
construction : Net cap trimmed with lace around the face and nape of neck. A ribbon is attached to the front of the cap and tied under the chin, two other ribbons are threaded through casing in the lace at the back of the cap. A further ribbon is tied in a bow and attached to the cap.
measurements : length 8cm width 11cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Circular piece of net gathered at the back of the head and seamed at the centre back. Two casings have also been made to accommodate decorative ribbons.
measurements : length 6cm width 8cm
technique 1 : lace making
technique 2 : not recorded
twist yarn : S,2Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : ?
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Lace
construction : Net-style lace with open work around the edge in three layers, each layer has been pleated and applied to the net cap.The piece at the nape of the neck is one layer only but has the same construction and is applied in the same way
measurements : width 2cm
technique 1 : lace making
technique 2 : not recorded
twist yarn : S,2Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : Possibly starched
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Five ribbons made in the same way. Two used to tie the cap under the chin, two threaded through casings in the lace and one tied in a bow to decorate the back of the cap.
measurements : The longest ribbon is 13cm width 2cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : satin
thread count ends / wales per cm : 50
thread count picks / rows per cm : 34
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : pale blue
colour – weft : pale blue
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Some of the ribbons have faded to a cream colour but they appear to be the same type.

component : Stitching
construction : Stitching attaching the lace and ribbons to the net, making the casings through which to thread the ribbons, and gathering the net at the back of the head.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : Running stitch, tacking stitch
twist yarn : not recorded
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Apron
number : D16.3
component : Whole
construction : Made from one piece of fabric, selvedge on the right side and two double turned edges at hem and left side. The top edge is bound with a striped tape which also holds the apron on to the doll.
measurements : length 16cm width 25.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Mixed fibre checked pattern
pattern : check
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 11
thread count picks / rows per cm : 15
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton and wool
fibre – warp : cotton and wool
colour – warp : 6 blue, 6 white
colour – weft : 10 white, 8 blue
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Fabric 2
construction : Striped tape folded over in the centre to encase the top edge of the apron, turned and stitched at both sides. Plain weave with a double warp.
measurements : length 42cm width 1.5cm
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 3
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S,2Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : Warp sequence: 6 brown, 4 white, 6 brown, 4 white, 6 blue, 6 white, 6 brown, 6 white, 6 blue, 4 white, 6 brown, 4 white, 6 brown
colour – weft : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Stitching to finish the edges of the apron and waistband tape, also attaching the waistband tape to the apron.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : Slip stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : blue/green
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Bedgown
number : D16.4
component : Whole
construction : Open gown in linsey-wolsey made in six pieces. The bodice is made in three, with two front crossing over and one centre back piece with seams at the shoulders and sides. The sleeves are full length and each made in 1 piece with the seam underneath the arm, joining the bodice at the shoulders.The back of the gown has a full length tail which is joined to the bodice at the waist and has turned edges at the sides and hem. There are loops at the hem through which a ribbon is threaded.
measurements : length approx 29cm width approx 24cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Striped linsey-wolsey
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 14
thread count picks / rows per cm : 14
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : wool, with some cotton and an un-identifed fibre
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : weft repeat: 2 red, 10 khaki
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : Medulla present in the red wool fibres, could be shetland wool. The Khaki wool is blended with some cotton and kemp fibres

component : Fabric 2
construction : Narrow ribbed ribbon fastened to the inside waist of the gown threaded through loops at the hem holding up the corners of the gown at the back and tied in a bow.
measurements : length approx 40 cm width 1cm
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : not recorded
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : The loops holding the ribbon are different, the outer two are black buttonhole stitch and three are small pieces of brown ribbon stitched in to the gown the ribbon is not threaded through one of them.

component : Fabric 3
construction : Trimming for the front opening and neck of the bodice, three pieces.
measurements : Both 1cm wide, smallest pieces both length 6cm longer piece 28cm
pattern : herringbone
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : herringbone
thread count ends / wales per cm : 22
thread count picks / rows per cm : 19
twist warp : Z spun
twist weft : Z spun
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Loops
construction : The 2 outside loops are made from detached buttonhole stitch in the same black thread used to tack the front of the gown together. The 3 inner loops are made from pieces of tape which appear to be braided.
measurements : 1mm wide
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : buttonhole stitch & woven tape
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not recorded
twist weft : not recorded
twist yarn : not recorded
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : cotton (buttonhole stitch)
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : black (buttonhole stitch)

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to construct the bedgown and turn the edges
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : Slip stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : green
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching 2
construction : Used to attach the binding to the neckline.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : Slip stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : red
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 3
construction : Used to tack the front of the bedgown together.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : back stitch
twist yarn : S,3Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Skirt
number : D16.5
component : Whole
construction : Skirt made in one piece of linsey-wolsey with a seam at the CB, a horizontal pleat has been sewn in approx 5cm from the hem and the hem itself is bound with the same red tape as that used on the bedgown. There is also a patterned waistband at the top edge and an opening at the back.
measurements : length 21cm inner circumference 45cm
general observations : The waistband has been sewn to the skirt first then wrapped around the doll, the ends extend beyond the skirt and over laps by at least 3cm on each side.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Striped linsey-wolsey fabric
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 14
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton, wool,
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : warp repeat: 4 blue, 6 red, 4 blue, 8 brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : The blue fibre is cotton, the red and khaki wool has some kemp fibres. Compare Khaki wool with that on the bedgown

component : Fabric 2
construction : Imitation houndstooth pattern fabric used to make a waistband for the skirt, and binds the edge.
measurements : length approx 15cm width 1.2cm
pattern : Houndstooth
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 30
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : 4 red, 4 blue
colour – weft : 4 red, 4 blue
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Compare with fabric used to make the dress of D29, evidence that D29 is the baby for D16?

component : Fabric 3
construction : Tape used to bind the hem of the skirt.
measurements : Width 1cm length 45cm
pattern : herringbone
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : herringbone
thread count ends / wales per cm : 22
thread count picks / rows per cm : 19
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : none
general observations : Same tape used to bind the edges of the bodice on the bedgown

component : Stitching
construction : Stitching used to construct the skirt, make the tuck and attach the tape to the hem
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : Slip stitch,running stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Underskirt
number : D16.6
component : Whole
construction : Flannel underskirt made from one piece with a CB seam and double hem. The top edge has a wasitband and a small opening at the back.
measurements : length 18cm inner circumference 44cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Fulled wool with irrgularities in the weave
pattern : none
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 2
construction : wide plain woven tape binding the edge of the underskirt
measurements : width approx 2cm
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 32
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to construct the underskirt and turn the edges.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : pale pink
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Attaching waistband to underskirt
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : Over stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Chemise
number : D16.7
component : Whole
construction : Chemise made in 2 main pieces and stitched to the body in places, it covers the chest with gussets inserted in the sides for shaping, short sleeves which sit off the shoulder. The chemise extends to the knees, has a double hem and 2 seams at the sides.
measurements : length approx 19cm inner corcumference approx 32cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain weave fabric
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 34
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching
construction : Along the top and hem of the chemise and attaching the sleeves and gussets to the bodice
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : Slip stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Neckerchief
number : D16.8
component : Whole
construction : Net neckerchief wrapped around the shoulders and tucked inside the chemise.
measurements : length approx 21cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Made from diamond patterned net
technique 1 : net
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Stockings
number : D16.9
component : Whole
construction : Hand knitted knee length stockings
measurements : length 6.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Circular knitting with turned heel.
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : stocking stitch
thread count ends / wales per cm : 3
thread count picks / rows per cm : 6
twist yarn : S
material – other : wool
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Shoes
number : D16.10
component : Whole
construction : Uppers made in one piece with a seam at the heel, soles made seperately and sewn to the uppers. Shoes and ribbons sewn to the stockings.
measurements : length of sole 5cm width across sole 2cm height of uppers 1cm

component : Leather
construction : Tanned leather uppers, leather sole (right sole is missing)
material – other : leather
colour – other : brown
finish : possibly polished
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Tiny decorative ribbons for the front of the shoes. Tied in a bow and then sewn to the stocking not the shoe itself.
measurements : With 0.5 cm
pattern : repp
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 25
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Attaching the soles to the uppers
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over sewn
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Very little thread remaining.

component : Stitching 2
construction : Attaching the ribbons to the shoes
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Shawl
number : D16.11
component : Whole
construction : Rectangular shaped flannel shawl crossed over the front of the doll and held together with a tacking stitch, not attached to any other garments.
measurements : length 53cm width 11cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven flannel with a raised surface
pattern : none
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 8
thread count picks / rows per cm : 10
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : navy blue
colour – weft : navy blue
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 2
construction : Plain woven narrow ribbon used to bind the edges of the shawl
measurements : Width 1cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 40
thread count picks / rows per cm : 32
twist warp : S
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to attach the binding to the edge of the shawl
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Used to construct the shawl
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Choker
number : D16.12
component : Whole
construction : Narrow ribbon attached around the neck like a choker, ends sewn together at the back.
measurements : Width 0.7cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Velvet ribbon
technique 1 : Woven
technique 2 : plain with pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Holding the two ends of the ribbon together
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over sewn
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

Advertisements