Welsh costume doll D17

number : D17

D17 front D17 reverse

NMW, St Fagans : 30.316

Costume: hat, cap, apron, bedgown, skirt, two underskirts, drawers, two shawls, shoes, baby with dress and cap in nursing shawl.

Body: Composition doll, papier-mâché with a wax coating (almost all lost). The body is covered in painted linen and stuffed, possibly with painted linen. The skirt is supported with a chicken wire cage which may have also been used to stand the doll upright. The baby is made from porcelain.

Hat: silk plush

Cap: net and ribbon

Height: 50cm excluding hat

General observations: It is unusual in Welsh costume to have yellow stripes (on the gown), and the horizontal stripes (on the skirt)

Date: 1840-1850 (dated by Tecwyn Vaughan Jones) According to the accession correspondence, the doll which was donated in 1930, had been in the donor’s family for eighty years.

Provenance and History: said to be from north Wales

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms
component : Whole
construction : Doll with set of clothes comprising: hat, cap, apron, bedgown, skirt, two underskirts, drawers,two shawls, shoes, baby carrier, baby’s dress and cap. Composition doll, papier mache with a wax coating (almost all lost). Brown glass eyes, blonde hair tied back. There is a split in the centre back of the head into which the hair is pushed and possibly adhered. The body is possibly stuffed with sawdust and covered in painted linen. The hands are covered in a papery substance similar to book binding paper, coloured bright purple and glazed The skirt is supported with a chicken wire cage which may have also been used to stand the doll upright.The baby is made from porcelain.
measurements : 50cm X 31cm not including hat

item : Hat
number : D17.1
component : Whole
construction : Welsh hat, tapered style, with a hatband and bead decoration. The inside is unlined apart from the brim. There is also a ribbon attached to one side of the crown base to fasten the hat under the chin.
measurements : Brim to top of crown 7cm, diameter of crown base 6cm, diameter of crown top 3cm, diameter of brim 12cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plush fabric used to cover the crown and brim of the hat.
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain with pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : black
finish : none

component : Fabric 2
construction : Unidentified fabric on underside of brim
pattern : Large diamond pattern, each shape measuring 2.5 x 3.5cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 40
thread count picks / rows per cm : 33
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stiffening Material
construction : Thick cardboard with white layer facing inwards.
technique 1 : non-woven
material – other : paper pulp
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : faint green colour on the cardboard which is also seen on D15.1

component : Hatband
construction : Twill weave with fulled surface. Tied around the base of the crown and crossed over at the front and fastened to the hat with a stitch. A string of 7 small rectangular shaped beads possibly jet
measurements : Length approx 22cm width 1cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : fulled
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Attached at one side of the hat on the inside the other side has become detached. Tied in a bow at the centre
measurements : length 16 cm width 0.3cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : not recorded
thread count ends / wales per cm : 40
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : purple
colour – weft : purple
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Construction stitching attaching the brim to the crown and the crown to the top.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : Mercerised
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : JB comment: fibres appear ‘plumped up’ & less twisted than unmercerised cotton

item : Cap
number : D17.2
component : Whole
construction : Cap made in one piece with two layers of pleated frills added around the edge. Decorated with four different ribbons, two around the back of the head, one in loops inbetween the frills and one to tie the cap under the chin
measurements : Width 12.5 cm x length 6cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Fine filet net, woven
pattern : Diamond shaped
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : filet net
thread count ends / wales per cm : 19
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : possibly starched
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Ribbon 1
construction : Wide ribbon sewn across the back of the cap and attched to tie under chin. Woven, striped design, one side is cut and the other is frayed. Also, ribbon sewn around the edge of the cap with woven striped design, both edges are cut.
measurements : width 2cm
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
thread count ends / wales per cm : 50
thread count picks / rows per cm : 44
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : purple
colour – weft : purple
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon 2
construction : satin ribbon sewn at the nape of the cap.
measurements : width 0.7cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : satin
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 36
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : purple
colour – weft : purple
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon 3
construction : Satin ribbon sewn in between two layers of gathered lace around the edge of the cap. One edge is cut the other is a selvedge.
measurements : width approx 0.8cm
pattern : Ribbed along one edge
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : satin
thread count ends / wales per cm : 48
thread count picks / rows per cm : 40
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : purple
colour – weft : purple
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : used to attach the ribbons to the cap
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : cotton
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Apron
number : D17.3
component : Whole
construction : Long apron turned on three sides with edges left raw, gathered at the waist into a white tape
measurements : length 30cm x 26cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Cotton check plain weave
pattern : checked
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : warp repeat: 4 blue, 4 double white
colour – weft : weft repeat: 4 white, 4 blue
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Fabric 2
construction : Plain woven tape with a raw cut edge, possbily just a strip cut from a larger piece, used as waistband.
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine sewing around the edges of the apron to turn the sides and hem
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Thread appears to be inconsistant to that used elsewhere on the doll so the apron could be a later addition

component : Stitching 2
construction : Sewing attaching the waistband to the apron
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Bedgown
number : D17.4
component : Whole
construction : The bedgown is made in sections with the checked fabric used only on the visible parts. The skirt/tail of the bedgown is the same length as the skirt beneath and is pleated up into a piece of black silk at the waist. The tail is gathered into four box pleats and the edges are turned in but left raw and the corners of the hem are turned in to create a rounded profile. The sleeves are seperate and also attached to the black silk bodice. The cuffs are turned up.
measurements : length 30.8cm x width 29.8cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Mixed fibre loosely woven fabric with a plain woven base and checked design.
pattern : checked
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/1 twill purple weft stripes, 3/1 twill orange warp stripes on a plain weave ground
thread count ends / wales per cm : 15
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton and wool
colour – warp : 40 brown, 7-9 orange, 3 brown, 7-9 orange
colour – weft : 32 brown, 4 purple, 2 brown, 4 purple
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : Orange warp-cotton, purple weft-wool, main brown warp-cotton, brown warp and weft-cotton

component : Fabric 2
construction : Bodice not intended to be seen attached to the skirt, cut on the bias.
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 44
thread count picks / rows per cm : 40
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Thread used to turn the hem and sides of the of the bedgown and attach the skirt and sleeves to the bodice.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Skirt
number : D17.5
component : Whole
construction : Made in one piece with a seam at the centre back. The skirt is gathered at the waist and sewn to the layer below. The hem has a double turning.
measurements : Length 33cm x circumference of hem 85cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven mixed fibre flannel, with a weft stripe. One loom width.
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
thread count ends / wales per cm : 17
thread count picks / rows per cm : 13
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : light brown
colour – weft : 20 grey, 8 brown, 4 yellow, 4 brown, 6 blue, 4 brown, 4 yellow, 8 brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching 1
construction : stitching around the hem, seam and attaching the skirt to the body.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : linen
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Underskirt 1
number : D17.6
component : Whole
construction : Made in one piece with a seam at the CB, not turned just gathered and tacked at waist, no waistband.
measurements : Length approx 35cm x circumference 92cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain weave calico
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to hold the gathers at the waist and forming the seam.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Underskirt 2
number : D17.7
component : Whole
construction : Made in one piece with a seam at the centre back, not turned just gathered and tacked at waist, no waistband.
measurements : Length 22cm x circumference 52cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : cotton calico,
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : coated on one side with a white pigmented substance, eveident maily in the interstices of the weave
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to hold the gathers at the waist and forming the seam.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Drawers
number : D17.8
component : Whole
construction : Made in one piece like a skirt and tacked together down the centre to separate the legs. Seam at CB. The hem is cut into a zig zag and not turned. The waist is simply tacked to the body, no waistband.
measurements : Length 20cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : White cotton calico,
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to sew the drawers to the body, the seam at the back and the stitching between the legs.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Shawl 1
number : D17.9
component : Whole
construction : Tartan shawl wrapped over the shoulders and tucked into the baby carrier. Edges not finished.
measurements : Length 23cm x width 10cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : woven tartan design with a red base colour and white, yellow, green, black and blue stripes to create a check.
pattern : checked
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 18
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : 32 red, 6 blue, 8 black, 4 yellow, 4 black, 4 white, 4 black, 10 green, 8 red, 4 black, 6 red, 4 white, 6 red, 4 black, 10 green, 4 black, 4 white, 4 black, 4 white, 6 black, 6 blue
colour – weft : 32 red, 6 blue, 8 black, 4 yellow, 4 black, 4 white, 4 black, 10 green, 8 red, 4 black, 6 red, 4 white, 6 red, 4 black, 10 green, 4 black, 4 white, 4 black, 4 white, 6 black, 6 blue
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Shawl 2
number : D17.10
component : Whole
construction : Under-shawl wrapped over the shoulders and tucked into the waistband of the skirt.
measurements : Not measured

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain weave flannel with raised surface
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : black
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Baby carrier
number : D17.11
component : Whole
construction : The baby is held by wrapping the fabric across it against the dolls left shoulder, taking the fabricl around the back and bringing it back around the front to catch in the starting point. It is then taken to the back again and tacked in place to secure it.
measurements : Width 6.8cm at widest point. Length approx 60cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Heavy fulled wool
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : fulled
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Holding the fabric in place with at least eight random stitches
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : mercerised
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Baby’s dress
number : D17.12
component : Whole
construction : long dress made from one piece with a seam at CB, holes cut for the arms, hem finished with a cut zig-zag. The waist is wrapped with purple ribbon (the same as used on the hat) The neck is gathered up and decorated with a ribbon.
measurements : Length 16cm x circumference 30cm
general observations : See hat for ribbon details

component : Fabric 1
construction : cotton calico, plain weave
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Twill woven with a wide selvedge.
measurements : Width approx 1cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 32
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : cream
colour – weft : cream
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Difficult to give precise measurements as both edges are frayed

component : Stitching 1
construction : Stitching along the seam, gathering at the neck.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : gather stitch, tacking stitch
twist yarn : 2 z plyed
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Baby’s cap
number : D17.13
component : Whole
construction : Cap made from a piece of silk covered in net and sewn around the neck to hold it in place
measurements : Length approx 6cm x 5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Silk repp
pattern : Ribbed
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 22
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : S
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : cream
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 2
construction : Fine filet net
pattern : Diamond shaped
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : filet net
thread count ends / wales per cm : 19
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : possibly starched
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : see dolls cap

item : Shoes
number : D17.14
component : Whole
construction : Ankle boot style shoe, each made in one piece with seams at the side and sole. The shoes are sewn on, not removable. The top of each shoe is decorated with a tape which appears to be adhered to the leg and shoe. It is wrapped around the ankle and tied in a bow at the front.
measurements : Height 4cm x length of sole 4.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Imitation leather fabric consisting of a woven cotton base with a coating of unknown material to create leather effect.
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : not recorded
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : not detected
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
colour – other : dark green coating
finish : unidentified coating
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Ribbon
construction : Plain loosely woven tape possibly adhered to the shoe and leg. Fraying at the ends.
measurements : Width 1cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : not recorded
thread count ends / wales per cm : 22
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching
construction : Used to stitch the seam together on the sole and side of shoe.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

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