Welsh costume doll D19

number : D19

D19 front D19 reverse

NMW, St Fagans : 13.95

Costume: cloak, apron, gown, skirt, underskirt, drawers, shoes.

Body: bisque-headed sleeping doll with plaster composition forearms and a stuffed body.

Hat: none

Cap: none

Height : 32cm

General observations: Gown made of blue white linsey-wolsey tied up at the back; red flannel cloak; crochless drawers like those made for adults.

Date: Circa 1895 – dated by Tecwyn Vaughan Jones

Maker: Probably an Armand Marseille doll, although Herting and Co and the Closter Veilsdorf used the name ‘Mabel’ on some of their dolls

Provenance and history: Purchased. Possibly an association with Carmarthen

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms
component : Whole
construction : Doll with set of clothes comprising: cloak, apron, bedgown, skirt, underskirt, drawers, shoes. A bisque-headed sleeping doll with plaster composition forearms and a stuffed body. The material enclosing the stuffing has been painted pink and there is a stamp on the torso consisting of an oval makers mark and a floral design. The upper part of the legs has a scalloped edging and it is joined at the knee to the lower part. This is painted black and has an overlocked seam down the back of the leg in orange thread. The doll is wearing black shoes which are glued on. The face has pink pigmentation with rosy cheeks, red lips, brown eyebrows and black eylashes painted on. The mouth is slightly open with 5 teeth showing and the eyes are brown and white glass. The eyelids are made from an unknown material which has been moulded around the top of the eyebal.l The hair is blonde in colour and worn loose with a curl at the ends, it is glued to the head.
measurements : Height 32cm x width 24cm

item : Cloak
number : D19.1
component : Whole
construction : Full length cloak with hood. It is made in one rectangular shaped piece with turned edges and gathered at the neck. The hood is made separatley and also gathered to create a frill around the face, it is sewn to the cloak at the back of the neck. Trimmed down each side of the opening with black tape, which is also used to trim the edge the hood, tie the cloak under the chin and face the top edge of the cloak.
measurements : Height 25.5cm x width 44.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red flannel with slightly raised surface.
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 14
thread count picks / rows per cm : 14
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 2
construction : Black twill woven mixed fibre tape
measurements : Width 1.4cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 46
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : stiffened
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : the cotton has been stiffened possibly gummed and tightly spun to produce quite a coarse yarn.

component : Stitching 1
construction : Thread used to turn the hem and sides of the cloak.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : red
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Thread used to attatch the ribbon trim.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Apron
number : D19.2
component : Whole
construction : Small apron made from one piece. The top edge is bound with a black tape and tied at the back in a knot. The edges of the apron are turned and hemmed.
measurements : Height 10cm x width 10cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : large scale checked fabric in a mixed fibre
pattern : checked
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton (cream) and wool (black)
fibre – warp : cotton (cream) and wool (black)
colour – warp : 12 black, 12 cream
colour – weft : 12 black, 12 cream
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 2
construction : Same tape as D19.1 fabric 2, used to bind the top of the apron.
measurements : Width 1.4cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 46
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : stiffened
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : the cotton has been stiffened possibly gummed and tightly spun to produce quite a coarse yarn.

component : Stitching
construction : Same thread as used on D19.1 stitching 2, used to turn the edges of the apron and attach the ribbon.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Bedgown
number : D19.3
component : Whole
construction : Short bedgown made in three pieces with a CB panel and two side panels. The sleeves are formed from the panels and are not separate. The panels are seamed under the arms. All the seams are turned and finished. The front of the bodice is fastened in the centre with two hooks on the left side and sewn eyes on the right side. The front corners are turned back and tied together with narrow tapes which are sewn to each side.
measurements : Height 16cm x width 42cm not inc ribbon tie

component : Fabric 1
construction : Blue with a white warp stripe plain woven with a slightly raised surface.
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 14
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool and cotton
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : 1 white, 8 blue
colour – weft : blue
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : Warp fibres: the blue is wool and the white is cotton

component : Fabric 2
construction : Tape used to tie the ends of the bedgown back, it is the same as that used in D19.1
measurements : Width 1.4cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 46
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : stiffened
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching 1
construction : The thread is used to construct the bedgown, turn the edges and make the eyes. It is the same as the black thread used in D19.1 stitching 2
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Skirt
number : D19.4
component : Whole
construction : Skirt made in one piece with turned hem and waistband gathered and bound with tape.The seam is left open near the waistband and the ends of the tape are tied in a bow.
measurements : Length 13cm x circumference of hem 70cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Burgundy with a white warp stripe. Plain woven with a slightly raised surface.
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 10
thread count picks / rows per cm : 11
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool with mixed shoddy fibres, and cotton
fibre – warp : wool with mixed shoddy fibres
colour – warp : 2 white, 8 burgundy
colour – weft : burgundy
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : There are shoddy fibres mixed in with the wool. The white fibre is cotton.

component : Fabric 2
construction : Used to bind the top of the skirt. Same as that used in D19.1
measurements : Width 1.4cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 46
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : stiffened
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to construct the skirt, turn the seams and attach the tape. Same as the black thread used in D19.1
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Underskirt
number : D19.5
component : Whole
construction : Underskirt made in one piece with the seam at CB. The hem is turned and top is gathered into a tape at the waist, which is tied in a bow.The top of the seam is left open.
measurements : Length 11.5cm x circumference of hem 71cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : White flannel with a purple warp stripe
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 18
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : 1 purple, 14 white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Fabric 2
construction : Plain woven tape used to bind the top edge
measurements : Width 1.4cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to construct the skirt, turn the edges and attach the waistband.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Drawers
number : D19.6
component : Whole
construction : Drawers made as two separate legs, each leg is made in one piece with a casing at the top through which is threaded a cotton tape. The crotch is left open with the edges turned to the right side. The hems are turned.

component : Fabric 1
construction : White cotton
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 23
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : possibly calendered
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : The surface has a sheen which implies it has been treated.

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to construct the drawers and turn the edges. The same thread as used in D19.5
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Shoes
number : D19.7
component : Whole
construction : The shoes are each made in two parts, an upper and a sole. The upper is paper painted with a coating to create a patent leather effect. It is one piece with a join at the heel. The soles are also made from paper and painted with a yellow pigment.The left shoe has a thin metal buckle on the front but the right buckle is missing. Both shoes have a ribbon around the top edge. They are glued to the feet but there is also a pin securing each one.
measurements : Toe to heel 3.2cm x width 1.2cm

component : Upper & sole
construction : Painted paper
colour – other : black
finish : coated with an unknown material
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Woven tape used to bind the top edge of the shoe.
measurements : width 0.7cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : not recorded
thread count ends / wales per cm : 18
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
finish : coated with an unknown material, possibly paint, similar to that used to paint the stockings onto the legs.

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