Welsh costume doll D20

number : D20

D20 front D20 reverse

Victoria and Albert Museum, Museum of Childhood, London, Misc33-1978

Costume: hat, cape, apron, bedgown, skirt, two underskirts.

Body: ceramic face

Hat: silk plush

Cap: lace

Height: without hat: 26cm

General observations: This is similar to the pair in Tenby Museum (D3, D4). D3 has a very similar red cloak with feathered stitch embroidery. The underskirt also has feather stitch ornament. Printed cotton bedgown.

Date: about 1880

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Welsh doll with ceramic face; clothing including hat, cape, apron, bedgown, skirt, two underskirts.
measurements : Height of doll without hat: 26cm

item : Hat
number : D20.1
component : Whole
construction : Tapered stove-pipe with flat crown, broad brim and beaded hatband
measurements : Crown sides: 5.7cm. Crown tip circumference: 11cm. Brim width: 2.2cm. Brim circ. 31cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : outer covering of plush
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain weave with pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detectable
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detectable
twist warp : not detectable
twist weft : not detectable
twist yarn : not detectable
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : black pile
finish : brushed

component : Fabric 2
construction : lining
measurements : 6cm length inside crown
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : satin
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detectable
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detectable
twist warp : not detectable
twist weft : not detectable
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : ecru

component : Stiffening Material
construction : cardboard?
general observations : none visible

component : Hatband
construction : Decorative beaded gimp
measurements : 1cm wide
pattern : scallop
technique 1 : beading
material – other : glass
colour – other : black

component : Ribbon
construction : narrow tape ties under chin
measurements : 0.5cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detectable
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detectable
twist warp : not detectable
twist weft : not detectable
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : blue

component : Stitching
construction : hand stitching securing plush, oversewn
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over-sewing
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black

item : Cape
number : D20.2
component : Whole
construction : A cape with hood, finished with decorative embroidery around edges. Cape neck has narrow braid into which hood and cloak are gathered, tying in bow at front. Selvage on one side of front opening, hemmed on two sides.
measurements : CF 17.8cm. Width at lower edge: 32.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Main cloak and hood of red flannel
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : fulled

component : Embroidery
construction : On fabric 1
measurements : 1.3cm approx. repeat
pattern : feather stitch
technique 1 : hand embroidered
technique 2 : feather stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : wool
colour – other : black

component : Ribbon
construction : Around neck, forming ties & bow
measurements : 1.5cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : 40
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black

component : Stitching
construction : Hand sewn throughout, over-sewn around braid at hood/cape, running stitch at hem
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over-sewing, running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Cap
number : D20.3
component : Whole
construction : Lace cap under hat
measurements : 15cm diameter around face

component : Fabric 1
construction : Lace
technique 1 : lace
twist yarn : S
material – other : wool and cotton
colour – other : white
finish : stiffened?

component : Stitching
construction : construction thread
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not identified
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Apron
number : D20.4
component : Whole
construction : Striped cotton fabric gathered at waist into cotton tape, which also forms ties brought round waist to front & tied in a bow. Selvage on left side, hemmed lower edge and RHS
measurements : CF 15.6cm, waist & ties 49cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Weft striped brown/white cotton
measurements : 5.5cm stripe repeat
pattern : Stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain weave with 2/2 repp weft stripes
thread count ends / wales per cm : 19
thread count picks / rows per cm : 22
twist warp : S,2Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : weft stripe repeat:2 white, 12 brown, 2 light brown, 12 brown, 12 light brown, 12 brown, 2 white, 12 brown, 2 light brown, 12 brown, 2 white, 12 brown, 12 white, 12 brown, 2 light brown, 12 brown.

component : Fabric 2
construction : Narrow tape
measurements : 1.2cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : S
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
finish : glazed

component : Stitching
construction : Hand sewn throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black

item : Bedgown
number : D20.5
component : Whole
construction : Crossover front, long sleeved, short bedgown in printed cotton. Selvage and raw edge at front opening, hemmed lower edge. Sleeve cuffs are gathered. Front opening pinned into doll.
measurements : CF 11.5cm; width at lower edge 26cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Blue and red sprig print on white cotton
pattern : sprig
technique 1 : printed
technique 2 : woven, plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 32
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
colour – other : red/blue print

component : Stitching 1
construction : hand sewn throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip-stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Skirt
number : D20.6
component : Whole
construction : Skirt made from one piece of striped cotton, with CB seam. Gathered at waist into narrow cotton tape. Hemmed lower edge.
measurements : CB 16cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Brown/red/white weft stripe hanging vertically
measurements : 5.5cm stripe repeat
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain weave with figured (2/2 repp) weft stripes
thread count ends / wales per cm : 19
thread count picks / rows per cm : 22
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : Z & S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : weft stripe repeat:2 white, 12 brown, 2 red, 12 brown, 12 red, 12 brown, 2 white, 12 brown, 2 red, 12 brown, 2 white, 12 brown, 12 white, 12 brown, 2 red, 12 brown.

component : Fabric 2
construction : narrow cotton tape
measurements : 2cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching 1
construction : hand sewn throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip-stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black

item : Underskirt 1
number : D20.7
component : Whole
construction : Underskirt made from one piece of striped wool/cotton, seamed at CB, hemmed at lower edge and gathered into narrow tape at waist
measurements : CF 12cm long

component : Fabric 1
construction : Striped brown, red, yellow, white
measurements : 1.3cm stripe repeat
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 18
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : stripe repeat: 2 yellow, 1 white, 4 red, 4 brown, 1 white, 6 brown, 1 white, 6 brown,
colour – weft : white
finish : fulled
microscopic analysis? : yes: warp
general observations : Some warp threads are two-tone ply e.g. red plied with white. This creates a blurred effect to the stripe.

component : Fabric 2
construction : Waistband tape; inaccessible

component : Stitching 1
construction : hand sewn throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Underskirt 2
number : D20.8
component : Whole
construction : Underskirt made from one piece of flannel, embroidered at lower edge with red feather stitch. CB seam
measurements : CF approx. 11cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : white flannel
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : fulled

component : Embroidery
construction : Decorating lower edge
measurements : 2.5cm motif repeat
pattern : feather stitch
technique 1 : hand embroidered
technique 2 : feather stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : wool
colour – other : red

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand sewn running stitch throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Neckerchief
number : D20.9
component : Whole
construction : Red flannel as cape, only just visible at neck.
general observations : No details could be recorded

component : Fabric 1
construction : As fabric 1 for D20.2
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : fulled

item : Knitting and needles
number : D20.10
component : Whole
construction : A basket containing red wool knitting on four needles, sewn onto left sleeve.

component : Knitting
construction : in basket
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : wool
colour – other : red

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