Welsh costume doll D21

number : D21

D21 front D21 reverse

Museum of London, London : 31.56/4

Body: Bisque head, blone curley moulded hair, painted face, glass eyes. Bisque lower arms and moulded bisque lower legs painted with boots, now partly missing, on stuffed cloth body.

Costume: hat, cap, cloak, apron, skirt, bedgown/shirt, two underskirts, chemise, drawers.

Hat: silk plush

Cap: cotton with lace trim

Height: without hat: 33cm (feet missing)

General observations: Other than the hat, there is not much which distinguishes this as being Welsh.

Date: 1880-1900?

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Doll with set of clothing comprised of hat, cap, cloak, apron, skirt, bedgown/shirt, two underskirts, chemise, drawers.
measurements : Height of doll without hat: 33cm (feet missing)
general observations : Overall a more bourgeois interpretation of the Welsh doll.

item : Hat
number : D21.1
component : Whole
construction : Tapered stove-pipe with flat crown, broad brim, hatband with bow, & chin strap which is not contemporary. Lined with brown paper. The underside of the brim has been covered with four pieces of silk plush scraps and the overall finish is not top quality.
measurements : Crown sides: 6cm. Crown tip circumference: 9cm. Brim width:2.1cm. Brim circumference: 28cm.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Outer covering of plush, adhered to stiffening layer
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain with pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : 22
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : Z,2S
twist yarn : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton?
fibre – warp : cotton?
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : black pile
finish : brushed
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stiffening Material
construction : card

component : Hatband
construction : Narrow tape stitched above brim and forming a bow
measurements : 1.5cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain repp
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Hand sewn throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over-sewn
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Lining
construction : Brown paper interior of crown

item : Cap
number : D21.2
component : Whole
construction : A loose-weave cotton cap, shaped & pleated into a back panel, with lace trim & ties under chin.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Muslin
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 22
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : with dressing
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Lace
construction : Finishing around face
pattern : scallop
technique 1 : lace
twist yarn : S
material – other : wool & cotton
colour – other : white

component : Ties
construction : Stitched to cap & wrapped around neck
pattern : none
technique 1 : Strands of yarn, untwisted
thread count ends / wales per cm :
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : silk
colour – other : white

component : Stitching
construction : Hand sewn throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Cape
number : D21.3
component : Whole
construction : A red hooded cape with narrow tape covering the join between cape & hood, also forming ties. Finished around edges with embroidered decoration. Hemmed down CF and lower edge, hood gathered with enclosed cord around face.
measurements : CF 18cm; hem width:32cm.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red flannel
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/1 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 2
construction : Narrow tape around neck & forming ties
measurements : length 43cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain repp
thread count ends / wales per cm : 70
thread count picks / rows per cm : 40
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Embroidery
construction : Decorative embroidery around hood, CF & lower edge
measurements : 2cm approx. motif repeat
pattern : feather stitch
technique 1 : hand embroidered
technique 2 : feather stitch
twist yarn : Z,4S
material – other : wool
colour – other : black
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : hand sewn throughout, running stitch on hems, slip stitch on tape covering neck join
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black

item : Apron
number : D21.4
component : Whole
construction : Apron formed from rectangle of blue/white checked fabric, gathered at waist into waistband which also forms tie, tied at back in bow. Hemmed on three sides.
measurements : CF 13.5cm; lower edge 16cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Apron front
measurements : 3mm check repeat
pattern : check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/1 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : warp repeat: 4 blue, 4 white
colour – weft : weft repeat: 4 blue, 4 white
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Fabric 2
construction : Waistband tape, also forming ties. Narrow cotton tape
measurements : 1cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 29
twist warp : Z
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching
construction : hand slip-stitched throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Bedgown
number : D21.5
component : Whole
construction : A shirt-style bedgown, with CF opening, long sleeves, collar. Three buttons fasten front, with buttonhole-stitch loops. Sleeve ends slightly gathered. Neck edge gathered into collar. Front & back cut from one piece of fabric, joined at shoulders. French seams.
measurements : CF 13cm. Hem circ:32cm. Collar to sleeve end: 12cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Blue/white stripe cotton forms all parts
measurements : 1mm stripe repeat
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : printed
technique 2 : woven, plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 34
thread count picks / rows per cm : 34
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
colour – other : blue print

component : Stitching 1
construction : hand slip-stitched & running stitch throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Skirt
number : D21.6
component : Whole
construction : Skirt formed from one piece of blue flannel with CB french seam. Flat fronted, gathered from sides round to back into waist band of same fabric. Slash above seam CB for access, fastened with hook & loop.
measurements : CB: 18cm. Hem circ: 53cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Blue wool flannel skirt with waistband
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/1 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : blue
finish : raised

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand sewn throughout, with slip stitching on hem, running stitch and herringbone on French seam
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, slip stitch, herringbone stitch
twist yarn : Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black

item : Underskirt 1
number : D21.7
component : Whole
construction : White cotton underskirt cut from one piece of fabric with CB French seam, gathered at waist into band of same fabric. Fastens CB with fabric-covered button & loop. Decorated lower edge with embroidery.
measurements : CB 17cm; hem circ:53cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Skirt & waistband
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 40
thread count picks / rows per cm : 40
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand sewn slip stitch/running stitch throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

component : Embroidery
construction : Decorating lower edge
measurements : 4mm motif repeat
pattern : feather stitch
technique 1 : hand embroidered
technique 2 : feather stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : silk
colour – other : white

item : Underskirt 2
number : D21.8
component : Whole
construction : Underskirt formed from one piece of flannel with CB French seam, gathered at waist into narrow cotton tape, no ties. Scalloped lower edge with decorative embroidery. Fastens CB with button (now missing) & loop
measurements : CB:14.5cm. Hem circ: 43cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Skirt, wool flannel
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : green
colour – weft : green
finish : raised

component : Waistband tape
construction : forms waistband, narrow tape
measurements : 1.6cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 44
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand sewn throughout, running stitch & herringbone
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, herringbone stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : silk
colour – other : white

component : Embroidery
construction : around lower edge
pattern : blanket stitch on scalloped edge with quatrefoil motif
technique 1 : hand embroidered
technique 2 : blanket stitch, quatrefoil motif
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : silk
colour – other : white
general observations : same as stitching thread

item : Chemise
number : D21.9
component : Whole
construction : Long chemise with integral short sleeves, cut from two pieces of cloth, seamed at sides. Short CF opening, gathered neck with cord, lace finishing on sleeves and around neck.
measurements : CF 18.cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Main body of chemise
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 44
thread count picks / rows per cm : 44
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching 1
construction : hand sewn throughout, oversewn & running stitch on hems and French seams
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over-sewn, running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

component : Lace
construction : decoration on sleeves & around neck
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : not identified
twist yarn : Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Drawers
number : D21.10
component : Whole
construction : Long drawers gathered into waistband (not seen), fastening CB. Decorated at ankles with horizontal pleat & lace trim.
measurements : Length 15cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : As chemise fabric 1
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 44
thread count picks / rows per cm : 44
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Lace
construction : As chemise lace
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : not identified
twist yarn : Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

component : Stitching
construction : hand sewn throughout, oversewn & running stitch on hems and French seams
pattern : hand sewn
technique 1 : over-sewn, running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white