Welsh costume doll D22

number : D22

D22 front D22 reverse

Victoria and Albert Museum, Museum of Childhood, London : T.89_1929

Costume: hat, cap, bedgown, apron, skirt, underskirt, chemise, stockings, shoes, sleeves, shawl, neckerchief and pocket.

Body:

Hat: silk plush

Cap: muslin with lace trim

Height: without hat: 53cm

General observations: The gown and skirt are of bold red and blue check fabric. The cotton shawl is a fine miniature version of a Paisley type.

Date: late 19th century

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Doll with clothing comprised of hat,cap, bedgown, apron, skirt, underskirt, chemise, stockings, shoes, sleeves, shawl, neckerchief and pocket.
measurements : Height of doll without hat: 53cm

item : Hat
number : D22.1
component : Whole
construction : Tapered stove-pipe with wide brim and flat crown, hatband with beaded decoration. Brim finished with narrow braid. The hat is stitched to the cap and head of the doll.
measurements : Height of crown 8cm; circumference of crown tip 13cm; circumference of brim 44cm; depth of brim 3.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Outer covering of plush
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain with pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : black pile
finish : brushed

component : Stiffening Material
construction : not visible

component : Hat band
construction : A strip of velvet, cut on bias, folded and tied in a bow, stitched to hat crown above brim.
measurements : Depth 2.5cm; length including bow 25.5cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain with pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : not detected
fibre – warp : not detected
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : black pile

component : Hatband decoration
construction : A gimp-type braid with black beads incorporated into the structure
measurements : 1 – 2.2cm
pattern : floral
technique 1 : beaded/woven
twist weft : na/
material – other : silk over cotton core in the gimp; glass beads
colour – other : black

component : Stitching
construction : not visible

item : Cap
number : D22.2
component : Whole
construction : Partially concealed by hat. A muslin cap with lace, and silk ribbon finishing around face, also forming ties.
measurements : Tie length 14cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Muslin
pattern : dotted
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Lace
construction : Forming part of the decoration around the face
technique 1 : lace
twist yarn : not detected
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

component : Ribbon
construction : Narrow picot ribbon forming part of the decoration around the face and the ties.
measurements : width 0.7cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : satin
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching
construction : not visible

item : Apron
number : D22.3
component : Whole
construction : Check pattern fabric gathered into narrow tape waistband, tied at back under bedgown. Hemmed both sides, selvage at lower edge.
measurements : width lower edge 44cm; length 28cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Black/white flannel
pattern : 3.2cm check repeat
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 14
thread count picks / rows per cm : 13
twist warp : z
twist weft : z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : warp repeat: 10 white, 4 black; 10 w, 20 b
colour – weft : weft repeat: 10 white, 4 black, 10 w, 18 b
finish : none
general observations : loomstate

component : Fabric 2
construction : Waistband tape. Folded over raw edge of apron top, stitched
measurements : 2cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : glazed
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : hand stitched throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not recorded
twist yarn : s
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Bedgown
number : D22.4
component : Whole
construction : Open-fronted, with bodice and long sleeves, skirt waist gathered into narrow wool tape and attached to bodice. Wrap-over style at front, pinned to doll. All edges finished with narrow tape. One piece skirt, bodice back, bodice front two pieces, two sleeves one piece each.
measurements : CF skirt:31cm. Width at lower edge: 66cm. Neck edge to cuff: 10.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red, black and blue flannel check
pattern : 1cm check repeat
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 15
thread count picks / rows per cm : 13
twist warp : Z,2S
twist weft : Z,2S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : warp repeat: 2 black, 2 blue, 2 black, 8 red
colour – weft : weft repeat: 2 black, 2 blue, 2 black, 8 red
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : loomstate

component : Fabric 2
construction : narrow tape finishing edges
measurements : 1.6cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : plait?
thread count ends / wales per cm : 6
thread count picks / rows per cm : 9
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : wool
colour – other : red

component : Stitching 1
construction : attaching braid around edges & construction
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : red

item : Skirt
number : D22.5
component : Whole
construction : Skirt made from two pieces of flannel, with seams at CB and RHS, gathered into narrow cotton tape at waist, opening at CB, no waist ties, pinned into place. CB join is two selvages butted and oversewn together, the other join is a French seam. Finished lower edge with narrow braid.
measurements : CB: 31cm, width at lower edge: 104cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red, black and blue flannel check, as bedgown fabric 1
pattern : 1cm check repeat
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 15
thread count picks / rows per cm : 13
twist warp : Z,2S
twist weft : Z,2S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : warp repeat: 2 black, 2 blue, 2 black, 8 red
colour – weft : weft repeat: 2 black, 2 blue, 2 black, 8 red
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : loomstate

component : Fabric 2
construction : narrow tape finishing edges, as bedgown fabric 2
measurements : 1.6cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : plait?
thread count ends / wales per cm : 6
thread count picks / rows per cm : 9
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : wool
colour – other : red

component : Fabric 3
construction : Waistband tape, folded over gathered edge of skirt, stitched
measurements : 3.5cm width
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching 1
construction : hand sewn throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton?
colour – other : red

item : Underskirt 1
number : D22.6
component : Whole
construction : Underskirt constructed from two pieces of flannel, gathered at waist into narrow cotton waistband, no ties, finished lower edge with narrow red braid as above. Pinned into waist. Opening at one seam for access.
measurements : Side seam: 30cm; width at lower edge: 88cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : black & white warp stripe flannel
measurements : 0.5cm repeat
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 11
twist warp : S,2Z
twist weft : S,2Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : warp stripe repeat: 4 white, 2 black
colour – weft : white

component : Fabric 2
construction : Waistband tape, folded and covering waist edge of underskirt
measurements : 2cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Fabric 3
construction : braid finishing to lower edge, as for bedgown fabric 2

component : Stitching 1
construction : Construction thread, over-sewn at selvage seam, other is French seam, all hand sewn
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over sewn
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

component : Stitching 2
construction : securing braid at lower edge
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not recorded
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : red

item : Chemise
number : D22.7
component : Whole
construction : chemise in white cotton, one side seam, hemmed at lower edge
measurements : side seam from waist: 21.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : white cotton
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching 1
construction : hand sewn throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not recorded
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Sleeves
number : D22.8
component : Whole
construction : sleeve/cuffs under bedgown, seamed tubes of knitting, raw edges top and bottom
measurements : 3.5cm long

component : Fabric 1
construction : dark brown knitted wool
pattern : none
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : stocking stitch
thread count ends / wales per cm : 5
thread count picks / rows per cm : 8
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : wool
colour – other : brown

component : Stitching 1
construction : at top and bottom, attaching to arms & securing raw edges
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over sewn
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Neckerchief
number : D22.9
component : Whole
construction : folded muslin under bedgown, unable to see construction

component : Fabric 1
construction : muslin
measurements : not possible to measure
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : stiffened

item : Stockings
number : D22.10
component : Whole
construction : black knitted, with hem at top edge. Unable to see foot construction
measurements : top to heel 16cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : black knitted
pattern : none
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : stocking stitch
thread count ends / wales per cm : 5
thread count picks / rows per cm : 8
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : wool
colour – other : black

item : Shawl
number : D22.11
component : Whole
construction : folded square held with pin and crossed over ends at front, raw edges hemmed
measurements : not possible to measure

component : fabric 1
construction : fine wool
pattern : paisley
technique 1 : printed, woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – other : red/black/white print

component : stitching 1
construction : machine stitched hem
technique 1 : machine sewn
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

component : stitching 2
construction : hand stitching hem
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Shoes
number : D22.12
component : Whole
construction : Leather shoes with ankle straps, edges finished with narrow braid, bows at front on upper, two buttons
measurements : sole length: 6cm

component : Leather 1
construction : upper
pattern : none
material – other : leather
colour – other : black

component : Leather 2
construction : sole
pattern : none
material – other : leather
colour – other : tan

component : Ribbon/ braid finishing
construction : around edges and forming bow
measurements : 0.6cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : calandered

component : Stitching 1
construction : attaching braid
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black

item : Pocket
number : D22.13
component : Whole
construction : Pocket attached to cotton ties & tied around waist. Two pieces with slashed opening down front
measurements : length 9.5cm

component : Leather
construction : pocket in chamois leather
pattern : none
material – other : chamois leather
colour – other : yellow, now faded

component : waistband
construction : ties attaching pocket and tying around waist
measurements : not possible to measure
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : stitching 1
construction : hand sewn throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : not detected
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

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