Welsh costume doll D23

number : D23

D23 front D23 reverse

Victoria and Albert Museum, Museum of Childhood : misc.49-1973

Costume: hat, cap, bedgown, skirt, apron, two underskirts, stockings, shoes, neckerchief, sleeves, gloves/hands, carrying a basket and muff(?)

Body: wax over composition

Hat: felt

Cap: net with lace and silk ribbon trim

Height: without hat 34cm

General observations:  

The gown, with matching skirt, is of plain brown fabric with a short tail, of the type found in Pembrokeshire.

Date: about 1840

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Doll with clothing comprising hat, cap, bedgown, skirt, apron, two underskirts, stockings, shoes, neckerchief, sleeves, gloves/hands, carrying a basket and muff(?)
measurements : Height of doll without hat: 34cm

item : Hat
number : D23.1
component : Whole
construction : A tapered stove-pipe with flat crown & broad brim, with hatband, and brim finished with narrow tape. This tape also forms ties under the chin. The stove-pipe has a seam at the back.
measurements : Crown height: 6cm. Crown tip circ: 11cm. Brim width: 3cm. Brim circ: 34.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Outer covering of fulled wool
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : fulled

component : Stiffening Material
construction : Not visible

component : Hatband/ brim edging/ties
construction : Narrow tape
measurements : 1cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : repp
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 30
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black

component : Stitching
construction : hand sewn construction thread
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch
twist yarn : Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Cap
number : D23.2
component : Whole
construction : A cap of white net, finished around face with lace and narrow white silk ribbon. Another silk ribbon (pink) decorates the back, concealed under hat brim.
measurements : not detectable
general observations : No access under hat

component : Fabric 1
construction : Net
pattern : none
technique 1 : net
twist yarn : not detected
material – other : cotton?
colour – other : white
finish : stiffened

component : Lace
construction : trimming
pattern : unidentified
technique 1 : lace
twist yarn : not detected
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

component : Ribbon 1
construction : Trimming at face and forming ties under chin
measurements : 6mm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain/repp
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : calendered

component : Ribbon 2
construction : Trimming at back
measurements : 8mm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain/repp
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : pink
colour – weft : pink

component : Stitching
construction : securing lace and tape around face
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not recorded
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Apron
number : D23.3
component : Whole
construction : A blue and white checked apron, gathered at waist into cotton tape waistband which extends to form ties. Hemmed on three sides.
measurements : CF 19cm. Width at lower edge: 21cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Rectangle forming apron front, linen/cotton mix, in blue/white check pattern.
measurements : 0.5cm check repeat
pattern : check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 22
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton & linen
fibre – warp : cotton & linen
colour – warp : warp repeat:6 blue, 6 white
colour – weft : 6 blue, 6 white
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Fabric 2
construction : Waistband, cotton tape attached to apron
measurements : 9mm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 22
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching
construction : hand slip-stitching throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Bedgown
number : D23.4
component : Whole
construction : A short bedgown with short sleeves, comprising front-opening bodice, peplum, sleeves. The peplum is made in three pieces & pleated into the bodice, giving fullness at the back. The bodice has one back & two front pieces, is cut low at the front & off shoulder. Each sleeve is comprised of one piece of fabric, with decorative narrow silk band at lower edge attached. Bodice pinned down CF to doll, imitating buttons.Two black glass buttons also at back stitched onto peplum where it joins the bodice.
measurements : CF 6cm. CB to peplum: 6.5cm. Peplum length at CB: 6.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : A red/brown flannel / linsey wolsey
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : red/brown
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Fabric 2
construction : Narrow picot ribbon decoration on sleeves
measurements : 6mm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : satin
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : purple
colour – weft : purple

component : Stitching 1
construction : hand sewn running stitch on seams & herringbone on hems
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, herringbone stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : waxed?
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Skirt
number : D23.5
component : Whole
construction : Skirt made from one piece of fabric with CF seam, gathered at waist and stitched directly onto doll. No waistband.
measurements : CF 16.5cm. Width around lower edge 53.5cm.

component : Fabric 1
construction : A red/brown flannel / linsey wolsey, as bedgown
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : red/brown
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand sewn throughout, back-stitch on flat seam & slip-stitch on hem.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : back stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : linen?
colour – other : brown
finish : waxed?
general observations : same thread used for bedgown

item : Underskirt 1
number : D23.6
component : Whole
construction : Underskirt made from one piece of flannel with CF flat seam, hemmed lower edge. Gathered into waist & stitched directly to doll, no waistband.
measurements : CF 15.5cm. Width around hem 35.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Off-white flannel
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : off-white
colour – weft : off-white
finish : raised

component : Stitching 1
construction : hand sewn throughout, back-stitch on flat seam & herringbone on hem
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : back stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Underskirt 2
number : D23.7
component : Whole
construction : Underskirt made from one piece of white cotton with CF seam, selvage at lower edge. Gathered at waist & stitched directly to doll, no waistband.
measurements : CF 13cm. Width around lower edge: 28cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : white cotton
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 30
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand sewn running stitch on flat seam
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Sleeves
number : D23.8
component : Whole
construction : Printed cotton sleeves under bedgown, gathered at wrist.
measurements : approx 7cm long

component : Fabric 1
construction : Purple floral/dot pattern on white cotton
pattern : floral/dot
technique 1 : printed
technique 2 : woven/plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
colour – other : purple print

component : Stitching 1
construction : not accessible

item : Neckerchief
number : D23.9
component : Whole
construction : Printed cotton shawl/neckerchief, folded into triangle & tucked into front of bedgown. The bordered design of the print shows it has not ben cut from a larger piece but was printed to fit the size of the square.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red/white print cotton
pattern : quatrefoil main field & floral/dot border
technique 1 : printed
technique 2 : woven/plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
twist yarn : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
colour – other : red print

item : Stockings
number : D23.10
component : Whole
construction : Dark brown knitted stockings, seamed at back. Heel/toe construction not visible
measurements : Top to heel: 9.5-10cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : dark brown knitted
pattern : none
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : stocking stitch
thread count ends / wales per cm : 7
thread count picks / rows per cm : 14
twist yarn : Z
material – other : cotton
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching 1
construction : hand over- sewn at back seam
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Shoes
number : D23.11
component : Whole
construction : Leather shoes with uppers in two pieces seamed down CF & to side of heel. Soles also leather. Top edge finished with narrow tape, also used to form small bows at fronts.
measurements : Sole length 5cm

component : Leather
construction : Soles & uppers
pattern : none
material – other : leather
colour – other : black
finish : lacquered/patent

component : Ribbon
construction : Edging top of uppers & bows
measurements : 1cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain/repp
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
twist yarn : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand over-sewn & running stitch throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over-sewn, running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Muff
number : D23.12
component : Whole
construction : A piece of fabric folded and stitched to form a muff shape. Seamed at top edge and sides are hemmed.
measurements : Circumference 14cm. Width 4cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Fragment of check flannel in blue/black/red/brown/green/mauve
pattern : check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 3/1 twill herringbone
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 22
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : warp repeat:3 brown, 6 mauve, 3 brown, 22 blue, 22 green, 22 blue, 3 brown, 6 blue, 3 brown, 22 blue, 22 green, 22 blue.
colour – weft : weft repeat: 16 black, 16 blue, 2 black, 4 red, 2 black, 16 blue, 16 black, 16 green, 2 black, 4 blue, 2 black16 green.

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand sewn on join & hem
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black

item : Gloves
number : D23.13
component : Whole
construction : Red leather gloves (or hands?) pinned into position and extending from sleeves.

component : Fabric 1
construction : red leather
material – other : leather
colour – other : red

component : Stitching
construction : hand sewn over-sewing
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over-sewing
twist yarn : not analysed
material – other : cotton
colour – other : yellow

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