Welsh costume doll D25

number : D25

D25 front D25 reverse

Museum of London : 42.18/15 and 42.18/19 (Hat)

Costume: hat, cap, bedgown, apron, skirt, underskirt, stockings, shoes.

Body: painted wood

Hat: silk plush

Cap:

Height without hat: 33cm

General observations:  This doll has what appears to have genuine Welsh fabric for the gown and skirt, but it has not been processed into flannel like adult examples. The striped woolen gown has long sleeves, unlike many other examples. The blouse is of printed cotton

Date: mid 19th century

Provenance and history: It has a label “Gallant Little Wales” as represented 60 years ago” and has a visiting card attached for William Bailey of Maidstone. It was probably made for a display or a competition.

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Doll with set of clothes comprising hat, cap, bedgown, apron, skirt, underskirt, stockings, shoes.
measurements : Height of doll without hat: 33cm

item : Hat
number : D25.1
component : Whole
construction : Slightly tapered stove-pipe with flat crown, broad brim, hatband with bow. Narrow tape chin strap may not be contemporary. Unlined.
measurements : Crown sides: 4cm. Crown tip circ: 10.5cm. Brim depth: 2cm. Brim circ: 25.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Outer covering of plush with very long pile,adhered to card
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain with pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
twist yarn : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : black pile
finish : brushed

component : Stiffening Material
construction : card

component : Hatband
construction : Narrow tape stitched above brim
measurements : 1cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain repp
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : 22
twist warp : I
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black

component : Ties
construction : Narrow tape stitched to underside of brim, forming ties
measurements : 8mm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 80
thread count picks / rows per cm : 32
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black

component : Stitching
construction : hand stitching additional to adhesive to secure plush to card
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over sewn, slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Cap
number : D25.2
component : Whole
construction : Net cap gathered to point at CB, with lace trim around face & blue silk tape ties.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Net
pattern : none
technique 1 : net
twist yarn : not detected
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

component : Lace
construction : Stitched to cap around its circumference in a double layer.
technique 1 : Lace
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

component : Fabric 2
construction : Narrow tape forming ties at chin
measurements : 1cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 64
thread count picks / rows per cm : 40
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : blue

component : Stitching
construction : Hand sewn throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not recorded
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Apron
number : D25.3
component : Whole
construction : Apron formed from a rectangle of linsey-wolsey, gathered at top edge into narrow cotton waistband which also forms ties. Hemmed on three sides.
measurements : CF 17.5cm, hem 19.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Apron main fabric blue/white check linsey-wolsey
measurements : 1.4cm check repeat
pattern : check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 11
thread count picks / rows per cm : 17
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : linen
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : weft repeat: 12 dark blue, 2 light blue in a bundle as 1, 1 dark blue, 2 light blue in a bundle as 1.
colour – weft : warp repeat: 16 dark blue, 4 white in a bundle as 1.
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Fabric 2
construction : Narrow tape forming ties & waistband
measurements : 1.1cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown

component : Stitching
construction : Hand stitched throughout with slip stitch
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Bedgown
number : D25.4
component : Whole
construction : Long bedgown with long sleeves. Linsey-wolsey. Front & back cut from one piece fabric, folded sides to CF & stitched at shoulders. Hemmed CF and lower edge. Sleeves are one piece each, folded and seamed underarm. Back collar panel.
measurements : CF 22.5cm. Hem circ: 20.5cm. Neck edge to sleeve end 13cm.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red/blue/brown striped linsey- wolsey
measurements : 1.3cm stripe repeat
pattern : weft stripe hanging vertically
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : linen
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : weft repeat: 8 brown, 2 blue, 6 red, 2 blue

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand sewn throughout, slip-stitched hems, running stitch on underarm seams
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Skirt
number : D25.5
component : Whole
construction : Long skirt cut from one piece of linsey-wolsey, flat-seamed CB. Gathered into waist & stitched directly to doll, no waistband. Hemmed lower edge.
measurements : CF 20cm. Hem circ. 33cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red/blue/brown striped linsey-wolsey
measurements : 4cm stripe repeat
pattern : weft stripe hanging vertically
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : linen
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : weft repeat: 2 red, 4 blue, 2 red, 16 brown, 6 red, 16 brown

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand sewn throughout, slip-stitched hems, running stitch on CB seam
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Underskirt
number : D25.6
component : Whole
construction : Underskirt formed from two pieces of fabric, one cotton the other wool, joined horizontally, hemmed lower edge, gathered into waist & held by stitching from skirt, no waistband.
measurements : CF 15.5cm. Hem circ. 21cm
general observations : Similar construction to petticoat on D26

component : Fabric 1
construction : Cotton forming upper part of underskirt
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Fabric 2
construction : Wool flannel forming lower part of underskirt
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : raised

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand sewn running stitch throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Neckerchief
number : D25.7
component : Whole
construction : A scrap of printed cotton, unfinished, wrapped around neck/chest of doll

component : Fabric 1
construction : Polychrome printed cotton
pattern : floral
technique 1 : printed
technique 2 : woven, plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
colour – other : black, red, blue green print obscures white substrate

item : Stockings
number : D25.8
component : Whole
construction : knitted scraps wrapped around lower legs; heel & toe obscured
measurements : top to toe: 4cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : knitted
pattern : none
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : stocking stitch
thread count ends / wales per cm : 8
thread count picks / rows per cm : 10
twist yarn : S
material – other : wool
colour – other : dark brown

component : Stitching
construction : roughly hand sewn throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over sewn
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Shoes
number : D25.9
component : Whole
construction : Made from one piece of cloth each, wrapped around foot & impregnated with paint/ matt lacquer?
measurements : Sole 2.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Possible braid? Herringbone effect, obscured by pigment.
pattern : none
technique 1 : braid?
fibre – warp : not detected
colour – other : black pigment
finish : matt

component : Stitching 1
construction : stitching under paint layer
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not recorded
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown