Welsh costume doll D26

number : D26

D26 front D26 reverse

Museum of London : D104 (from the Royal collections)

Costume: hat, cap, apron, bedgown, skirt, underskirt, stockings, shoes, neckerchief.

Body: Papier-mâché and wood, paint, wool, leather, thought to be made in Austria.

Hat: silk plush

Cap: net with lace edging

Height without hat: 37cm

General observations: The gown has long sleeves, a high neck and large collar, similar to some in prints of the mid 19th century in north Wales. The fabric is striped, green, red, blue, white, a combination not usually found in other Welsh fabrics. The blouse of printed cotton.

Date: 1832 (if the identification is correct).

Provenance and history: It is thought that this is the doll given to Princess Victoria in Llangollen in 1832.

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Papier mache doll with set of clothes comprised of: hat, cap, apron, bedgown, skirt, underskirt, stockings, shoes, neckerchief.
measurements : Height of doll without hat: 37cm

item : Hat
number : D26.1
component : Whole
construction : Stove-pipe hat, not tapered, with flat crown, broad brim, hatband and narrow silk ties.
measurements : Crown sides 4.5cm; crown tip circumference 13cm; brim depth 2.5cm; brim circ. 28cm.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Outer covering of plush, adhered to stiffening layer
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain with pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : bast
fibre – warp : bast
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : black pile
finish : brushed

component : Stiffening Material
construction : not visible

component : Hatband
construction : Narrow braid stitched above brim, wrapped twice around hat, with bow.
measurements : width 9mm
pattern : stripe/geometric
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : not identified
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : black

component : Ties
construction : Narrow ties (cut from a fabric) stitched to underside of brim, drawn to back & crossed, then tied under chin.
measurements : width 2.2cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : I
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown

component : Stitching
construction : hand sewn throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not recorded
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Cap
number : D26.2
component : Whole
construction : A net cap, with double layer of lace around edges, also narrow silk ribbon decoration
general observations : Not entirely visible under hat

component : Fabric 1
construction : Net
pattern : none
technique 1 : net
twist yarn : not detected
material – other : cotton?
colour – other : white

component : Lace
construction : Double layer stitched to net around edges
measurements : width 1cm
technique 1 : lace
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

component : Ribbon
construction : Decorative ribbon used to form 4 little bows on lace, also used for ties under chin
measurements : width 1cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : satin
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : pink
colour – weft : pink

component : Stitching
construction : Hand sewn
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not recorded
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Apron
number : D26.3
component : Whole
construction : A rectangle of linsey-wolsey gathered at top edge into waistband & ties, selvage down one side, hemmed lower edge & left side. A row of running stitch 2.5cm from top edge also serves to gather the material.
measurements : CF 22.5cm. Lower edge 26.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Weft stripe linsey-wolsey in blue/white
measurements : 1.5cm stripe repeat
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 30, inc. tightly beaten stripes
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : linen
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : Weft repeat:4 ligh blue, 10 white, 4 lb, 10 dark blue, 1 w, 1 lb, 1 w, 10 dark blue

component : Fabric 2
construction : Waistband tape. Stitched to apron front at top edge & forming ties
measurements : 1.5cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 22
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown

component : Stitching
construction : hand slip stitched throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Bedgown
number : D26.4
component : Whole
construction : Long bedgown with long sleeves. Front & back cut from one piece of linsey-wolsey, folded sides to CF & stitched at shoulders. Sleeves are one piece each, folded and seamed underarm. Collar also folded & stitched to neck edge, which is gathered into collar. Hemmed CF and lower edge.
measurements : CF 18.5cm. Width at ower edge 29cm. Neck edge to sleeve end 13.5cm
general observations : Construction very similar to D25

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red/blue/green/white striped linsey-wolsey, weft stripe, hanging vertically.
measurements : 1.8cm stripe repeat
pattern : weft stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S & Z
fibre – warp : linen
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : weft repeat: 2 red, 6 blue, 2 r, 6 green, 2 b, 6 white, 2 b, 6 g.
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand running & slip stitch throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Skirt
number : D26.5
component : Whole
construction : Skirt cut from one piece of linsey-wolsey & seamed at side (flat seam). Gathered at top edge (selvage) and stitched (no waistband or turning). Decorative horizontal pleat 4cm from lower edge. Hemmed.
measurements : CF 23cm. Hem circ. 35cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Blue/red weft stripe linsey-wolsey, hanging vertically.
measurements : 2.5cm stripe repeat
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : linen
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : weft repeat: 4 red, 12 light blue, 4 r, 28 dark blue.

component : Stitching 1
construction : hand running & slip stitch throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Underskirt
number : D26.6
component : Whole
construction : Underskirt made up of two pieces of fabric joined horizontally & seamed at one side. Gathered at waist & wrapped around with thread, no waistband. Hemmed lower edge. Same construction as for D25.6
measurements : CF 18cm. Hem circ. 20.5cm
general observations : Cotton part of petticoat has been hemmed and the flannel may be a later addition.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Cotton upper part of underskirt.
measurements : 15cmdrop
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : bast
fibre – warp : bast
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white

component : Fabric 2
construction : Wool flannel lower part of underskirt
measurements : 2.5cm drop
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : raised

component : Stitching 1
construction : hand-stitched throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Neckerchief
number : D26.7
component : Whole
construction : A scrap of unfinished printed cotton wrapped around neck , covering chest, & pinned.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Printed cotton
pattern : Abstract/stripe
technique 1 : printed
technique 2 : woven, plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
colour – other : pink print

item : Stockings
number : D26.8
component : Whole
construction : Knitted fabric wrapped around legs and seamed at back. Unfinished at top edge. Feet not visible
measurements : Top to heel: 6-6.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Brown knitted
pattern : none
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : stocking stitch
thread count ends / wales per cm : 6
thread count picks / rows per cm : 8
twist yarn : Z
material – other : wool
colour – other : brown

component : Stitching 1
construction : hand slip stitched throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Shoes
number : D26.9
component : Whole
construction : Leather shoes folded around feet & stitched along sole & back of heel, with ribbon bows.
measurements : Sole 3cm long

component : Leather
construction : Main sole and upper
pattern : none
material – other : leather
colour – other : brown

component : Ribbon
construction : Narrow ribbon bows
measurements : 8mm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain repp
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown

component : Stitching 1
construction : hand slip-stitched
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

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