Welsh costume doll D27

number : D27

D27 front D27 reverse

Museum of London : NN8645

Costume: hat, apron, bedgown, skirt, underskirt, stockings, shoes, basket of knitting.

Body: painted wood

Hat: silk plush

Cap: none

Height without hat: 28cm

General observations: The bedgown is of printed cotton like some found in north Wales

Date: mid 19th century

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Doll with clothing comprised of hat, apron, bedgown, skirt, underskirt, stockings, shoes, basket of knitting.
measurements : Doll without hat: 28cm

item : Hat
number : D27.1
component : Whole
construction : Tapered stove-pipe with flat crown, wide brim, hat band; adhered to head of doll.
measurements : Crown sides: 7.5cm, crown tip circ: 10cm, brim depth: 2.6cm, brim circ: 33cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Outer covering of plush on crown and brim top
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : black pile
finish : brushed

component : Fabric 2
construction : On underside of brim
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 60
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : brown

component : Stiffening Material
construction : buckram
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : bast
fibre – warp : bast
colour – warp : unbleached
colour – weft : unbleached
finish : dressed

component : Hatband
construction : Stitched to hat above brim
measurements : 2cm wide
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain repp
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : I
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black

component : Stitching
construction : hand stitched to hat
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not recorded
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Apron
number : D27.2
component : Whole
construction : Apron formed from rectangle of flannel, pleated at top edge into waistband tape, which also forms ties. Hemmed on three sides.
measurements : CF 15.5cm; hem width 16cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : blue/ecru flannel stripe hanging horizontally
measurements : 4cm stripe repeat
pattern : weft stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 17
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : 1 brown, 1 blue, 1 br, 1 b, 2 br,1b, 1 br, 1 b, 1 br, 24 b, 2 br, 2 b, 2 br, 24b

component : Fabric 2
construction : Narrow waistband tape forming ties
measurements : 1.1cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown

component : Stitching
construction : Hand running stitch throughout
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Bedgown
number : D27.3
component : Whole
construction : Short bedgown formed from one piece of fine cotton, with integral long sleeves, folded at shoulders & down sleeve. Seamed underarm/down sides (French). Crossed over at front, & stitched into place. Rolled hem lower edge & at sleeve ends.
measurements : CF 13cm; neck edge to sleeve ends 10cm; hem circ. 35cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Fine printed cotton
pattern : sprig
technique 1 : printed
technique 2 : woven, plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 32
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
colour – other : two-tone pink print

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand sewn running stitch
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

item : Skirt
number : D27.4
component : Whole
construction : Skirt formed from one piece of flannel, seamed down one side, gathered at waist but with no waistband. Hemmed lower edge. Hem and side seam are machine stitched.
measurements : CF 17cm; hem circumference 33cm.
general observations : Unclear whether this is the original skirt, with some machine-stitched alterations, or a replacement.

component : Fabric 1
construction : blue flannel with horizontal stripe at lower edge
pattern : stripe/plain
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 right hand twil
thread count ends / wales per cm : 18
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
twist yarn : z6s weft stripe yarn
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
material – other : cotton in weft stripe
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : blue
colour – other : pale blue weft stripe yarn
finish : raised

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine stitching around hem & at side seam
technique 1 : machine sewn
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

component : Stitching 2
construction : Hand stitching securing skirt gathers at waist
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not recorded
twist yarn : S
material – other : polyester/cotton blend
colour – other : white
general observations : Some conservation has been carried out & this stitching has been disregarded.

item : Underskirt
number : D27.5
component : Whole
construction : An underskirt in brushed cotton, formed from one piece of fabric seamed at CB, hemmed lower edge. Gathered around waist with a running stitch, no waistband.
measurements : CF 15cm. Hem circ: 21cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Brushed cotton
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : raised

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine stitching around hem & at CB seam
technique 1 : machine sewn
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white

component : Stitching 2
construction : Hand running stitch around waist
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
general observations : same thread used in stitching 1

item : Neckerchief
number : D27.6
component : Whole
construction : A scrap of red flannel wrapped around the neck and crossed over chest, into which the bedgown has been stitched

component : Fabric 1
construction : Red flannel
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red

item : Stockings
number : D27.7
component : Whole
construction : Knitted stockings, scraps of fabric wrapped around lower legs and crudely stitched at back. Feet not visible.
measurements : top to heel: 6.5 – 7cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Brown knitted wool
pattern : none
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : stocking stitch
thread count ends / wales per cm : 5
thread count picks / rows per cm : 6
twist yarn : S
material – other : wool
colour – other : brown

component : Stitching
construction : Over sewn at back joins
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over sewn
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : Shoes
number : D27.8
component : Whole
construction : Scraps of glazed/waterproofed fabric wrapped around feet & stitched along sole and up back of heel
measurements : sole 2.3cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Glazed/waterproofed cotton
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven, plain
technique 2 : glazed,pigmented
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : pigment/ waterproofing
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
colour – other : black pigment
finish : glazed

component : Stitching 1
construction : Hand sewn
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : not recorded
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown

item : knitting and needles
number : D27.9
component : Whole
construction : Basket containing knitting on two needles

component : Knitting
construction : knitting
pattern : none
technique 1 : knitted
technique 2 : stocking stitch
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : wool
colour – other : blue

component : Needles
construction : steel

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