Welsh costume doll D30

number : D30

D30 front D30 reverse

NMW, St Fagans : 14.129.1 Male doll.

Costume: hat, waistcoat, tailcoat, breeches, neckerchief.

Body: Composition, with articulate limbs and neck.

Hat: felt

Height : 23cm

General observations: The body may be early 19th century but all the garments have machine stitching which dates them to after 1850. The tail coat and breeches are made of brown velvet.

Date: Late 19th century – dated by Tecwyn Vaughan Jones

Provenance and history: Purchased from the Welsh Industries Association in 1914

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : A small boy doll with set of clothing comprised of: hat, waistcoat, tailcoat, breeches, neckerchief. Doll has articulated limbs and a swivel neck.The head has been cut away at the crown and this part is missing. It is possible to see a wire with a hook at the end which is attached to others inside the doll and when moved up and down this mechanism moves the arms an legs. There is some hair around the ears and stuck to the forehead. The facial features are painted, black eyes and eyebrows and red lips and nostrils.The pink base colour of the face is visible beneath the varnish layer which has yellowed and flaked away in places. The black boots are also painted on.
measurements : Length 23cm x width 9cm
general observations : The date of 1810-1840 appears to be correct for the doll body but all the garments have machine stitching which would make the costume post 1850

item : Hat
number : D30.1
component : Whole
construction : Large felt with wide brim possibly not original to the doll. Inside the hat is a lining of glazed chintz fabric and a ribbon to tie around the chin.
measurements : Height 7cm. Diameter 9cm. Depth of brim 3.3cm.
general observations : Described on museum inventory as a tricorn hat and was squashed up to this shape but when unfolded it resmbles a straight sided hat with wide brim, there is also a hatband which was obscured when the hat was folded up

component : Fabric 1
construction : Felt fabric used to construct the crown and brim in the same piece by moulding it into shape over a form.
pattern : none
technique 1 : felt
material – other : wool
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 2
construction : Highly glazed, printed chintz, plain weave, used to line the hat.
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : printed
technique 2 : woven, plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 22
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
colour – other : brown and orange print
finish : glazed
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 3
construction : Fine silk, plain woven ribbon used to tie the hat under the chin
measurements : Width 1cm
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 40
thread count picks / rows per cm : 36
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Hatband
construction : Thin grosgrain ribbon wrapped around the crown and tied in a knot.
measurements : length approx 18cm x width 0.8cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 14
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z,2S
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Thread used to attach the lining to the base of the crown
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Waistcoat
number : D30.2
component : Whole
construction : Waistcoat made in five pieces, one CB panel in a green fabric and the same fabric used for lining the two front pieces.Front pieces of flannel check. The neckline of the waist coat forms a v-shape with the left side folding over the right. There are three gold coloured metal buttons sewn to the left side but these are decoration and not functioning. The construction stitches are machine sewn.
measurements : Length 7cm x width 7cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Flannel check
pattern : checked
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 11
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : 4 white, 4 blue
colour – weft : 4 white, 4 blue
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 2
construction : Green cotton fabric used for the back panel and lining of the front.
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/1 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : green
colour – weft : green
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine stitching used to construct the waistcoat. Seams attaching front to back and top stitching to finish edges. This consists of an upper brown thread and a lower white thread.
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : white:Z,6S, brown: Z,3Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white and brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Used to sew the buttons on the waistcoat
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 3
construction : Used as a repair or tacking thread on the front of the waistcoat near the buttons.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : S,3Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Tailcoat
number : D30.3
component : Whole
construction : Tailcoat with elbow length sleeves and open front with lapels. Constructed in six pieces, with two back panels, two front panels shaped to extend the tail and make the fronts, joined to the back panels at the shoulders and under the arms. The sleeves are each made in one piece with the seam under the arm. The lapels are made by turning back the top corners of the front panels. All the edges are hemmed. Most of the construction is machine sewn and with the shaping finished by hand. There are three buttons on each front panel, two on each sleeve at the elbow point and two at the top of the tail slit.
measurements : Length 14cm x width 13cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Velvet
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain with pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 46
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : cotton pile
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : brown pile
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Fabric 2
construction : Remains of brown silk around the collar, possibly lining fabric.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : not detected
thread count ends / wales per cm : not detected
thread count picks / rows per cm : not detected
twist warp : not detected
twist weft : not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Same as D30.2 stitching 1, used in the main construction of the tailcoat including top-stitching at the cuffs
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : white:Z,6S, brown: Z,3Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white and brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Same as D30.2 stitching 2, used to create the lapels, turn the edges and sew the buttons on.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 3
construction : Remains of a black thread on both sides of the front panels, possibly where a fastening once was.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : back stitch
twist yarn : Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Breeches
number : D30.4
component : Whole
construction : Breeches made in two parts, one for each leg. The seams are joined at the inside leg and at the CB and CF. Hemmed, and each leg has two buttons sewn at the knee.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Velvet, same as tailcoat
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain with pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 46
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : cotton pile
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : brown pile
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine stitching, same as used to construct the waistcoat. .
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : white:Z,6S, brown: Z,3Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white and brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Used to sew the top of the seam at CF, sew the bottom of the waistcoat to the trousers and attach the buttons. Same thread as D30.3 stitching 3
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : back stitch
twist yarn : Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Neckerchief
number : D30.5
component : Whole
construction : Tucked inside the neck join of the doll and pleated slightly. Worn underneath the waistcoat

component : Fabric 1
construction : Open weave muslin fabric
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 22
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no