Welsh costume doll D31

number : D31

D31 front D31 reverse

NMW, St Fagans : 66.488

Costume: hat, bedgown, skirt, underskirt, drawers, stockings, neckerchief and shawl.

Body: A bisque head with blonde moulded hair. The head is loose. The torso is stuffed with straw and rag waste. The upper arms are wire with unglazed earthenware forearms. The upper leg is a wooden peg into which the unglazed earthenware calves are fixed, the right calf is missing. Some of the clothes are pinned onto the body. Makers marks on the shoulder plate read: 285 7/0.

Hat: silk plush

Cap: none

Height: 27.5cm without hat.

General observations: The bedgown is short and made in three pieces, one for the bodice and two separate arms. The bodice is hip length and folds left over right at the front with curved shaping at the hem.

Date: 1855-1860

Provenance and history: Donated by Trefor M Owen, M.A., F.S.A, of Prestatyn, Flintshire.

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : A Bisque headed doll dressed in a hat, bedgown, skirt, underskirt, drawers, stockings, neckerchief and shawl. The doll has blonde moulded hair, the head is loose. The torso is stuffed with straw and rag waste. The upper arms are wire with unglazed earthenware forearms. The upper leg is a wooden peg into which the unglazed earthenware calves are fixed, the right calf is missing. Some of the clothes are pinned onto the body. Makers marks on the shoulder plate read: 285 7/0.
measurements : Length without hat 27.5cm x width 12cm

item : Hat
number : D31.1
component : Whole
construction : Tall tapered hat made in three pieces with a brim, crown sides and crown top. Each piece is made from buckram with plush glued to it. The crown is sewn together down the back and the brim is sewn to the crown, the crown top is glued in place. The front part of the hatband is glued to the base of the crown but the rest is loose. The underside of the brim and top has been painted black.
measurements : Width of brim 2.5cm, length of crown 4cmCircumference of base of crown 9cm, circumference of top of crown 7cm, diameter of top 2cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Silk plush glued to the stiffening material on the outside. Cellulosic base tightly woven with additional wefts on the surface forming a pile.
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain? with napped pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : unable to detect
thread count picks / rows per cm : 15
twist warp : unable to detect
twist weft : unable to detect
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : silk pile
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stiffening Material
construction : Buckram plain weave.
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 18
thread count picks / rows per cm : 11
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : linen
fibre – warp : linen
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : painted black on underside of brim and inside crown top after construction as it is also covering the stitches.
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Hatband
construction : Gimp formed into a looped chain design.
measurements : length 9.5cm x width approx 0.5cm
technique 1 : ?
technique 2 : ?
twist yarn : cord is Z,3Z wrapped in silk floss.
material – other : cotton wrapped in silk
colour – other : brown cord black silk floss
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to attach the brim to the crown and sew the crown together at the back.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, over stitch
twist yarn : ?, 3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : black paint
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Apron
number : D31.2
component : Whole
construction : Narrow apron gathered at the waist with stitching but no waistband. Pinned to the body at both sides. The hem and sides are turned and tacked but unfinished.
measurements : length 12cm x width 9.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Weft faced sateen
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 3/1 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 17
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : blue
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : very faded, the original colour is only visible on the reverse

component : Stitching
construction : used to turn the edges and gather the waist.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : gathering stitch, tacking stitch
twist yarn : ?, 3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Bedgown
number : D31.3
component : Whole
construction : Short bedgown made in three pieces, one for the bodice and two separate arms. The bodice is hip length and folds left over right at the front with curved shaping at the hem. The edges are turned but not finished. Each sleeve is made in one piece with a seam on the inside arm. The neck line is a cut edge and left un-finished.
measurements : Length approx 10cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : plain woven calico balanced weave
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : appears to have a coating or paint on the surface
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : used to turn the edges, seam the arms and gather at the front and back.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : backstitch, tacking stitch
twist yarn : ?,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Skirt
number : D31.4
component : Whole
construction : Long skirt made in one piece with a seam at CB. The hem is turned but un-finished. At the waist it is tacked to the layers beneath and a long thread has been wrapped around and tied to hold it in place.
measurements : Length 14cm x outer circumference 26cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : plain woven brushed cotton
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 17
twist warp : 2S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : fawn
colour – weft : fawn
finish : raised surface
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : the warp is more tightly spun than the weft.

component : Stitching 1
construction : used to sew the hem and seam
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, tacking stitch
twist yarn : Z,4S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : red
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : dyed as a thread, white parts are visible when it is unravelled

component : Stitching 2
construction : used to gather the petticoat at the hem. A longer piece of thread is wrapped around the waist
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : ?,4S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Underskirt
number : D31.5
component : Whole
construction : Made in one piece with a seam at the CB. The hem is turned once and unfinished, all edges are facing outwards. (Rather than an underskirt, could this be the skirt lining? CSH)
measurements : length approx 13cm x inner circumference 25cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Same as used in D31.3, plain weave calico
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : appears to have a coating or paint on the surface
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Same as the undyed thread used in D31.4
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, tacking stitch
twist yarn : ?,4S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Drawers
number : D31.6
component : Whole
construction : Made in one piece with a seam at CB, constructed as a skirt with a stich between the legs to separate them. Seams turned inwards.
measurements : length approx 10cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Same as used in D31.3, plain weave calico
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : appears to have a coating or paint on the surface
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Same as the undyed thread used in D31.3
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : ?,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Shawl
number : D31.7
component : Whole
construction : Shawl made from two fabrics, a wool twill with a a strip of printed cotton sewn to it as decoration. The wool is a triangular shape which is laid across the back and wrapped over the shoulders in pleats. It is then crossed, left over right, wrapped around the waist and fixed with a pin at the back.
measurements : Length approx 40cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Twill woven weft-face wool fabric
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/1 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 22
thread count picks / rows per cm : 36
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 2
construction : Printed cotton chintz, plain woven
measurements : width 2cm
pattern : undyed ground with a red and blue paisley pattern
technique 1 : printed, woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
colour – other : red and blue printing ink.
finish : glazed or calendered
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : used to sew fabric 2 to fabric 1.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : ?,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Neckerchief
number : D31.8
component : Whole
construction : One strip of fabric folded in half and looped around the neck of the doll with the folded edge visible. The edges are cut, un-finished and tucked into the shawl. The back of the neckercheif is slashed to enable it to fit snugly around the neck. The only fixing for the neckerchief is one pin in the chest.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Same as used in D31.3, plain weave calico
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : appears to have a coating or paint on the surface
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Stockings
number : D31.9
component : Whole
construction : Only one stocking remains, it is knitted flat, cut to shape and sewn at the back and sole. The top is cut and unfinished
measurements : length 5.3cm x circumference 7.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : ribbed knitting
technique 1 : machine knitting
technique 2 : 1/1 rib
thread count ends / wales per cm : 8
thread count picks / rows per cm : 4
twist yarn : ?,4Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : quite complex possibly made by machine

component : Stitching 1
construction : Same thread as used in D31.3
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch
twist yarn : ?,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no