Welsh costume doll D32

number : D32

D32 front D32 reverse

NMW, St Fagans : 34.253

Costume: hat, cap, apron, bedgown, skirt, underskirt, neckerchief and carrying knitting and a metal bucket.

Body: wood, articulated limbs and tennon joints. Painted face and leg details.

Hat: felt

Cap: muslin with lace trim

Height : 32.2cm without hat.

General observations: The bedgown is of printed cotton and has a rounded collar

Date: costume 1851 on a body dated 1825-1830.

Provenance and history: dressed at Holywell by the donor’s aunt, Mrs Maria Higgins, during the Autumn of 1851.

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Wooden doll wearing hat, cap, apron, bedgown, skirt, underskirt, neckerchief and carrying knitting and a metal bucket. Doll has articulated limbs and tennon joints. Painted facial features including a black cap, grey hair, blue eyes, black eyebrows, pink cheeks and red lips and nostrils. The forearms are painted white and varnished although some of this has worn off on the hands. The lower legs are also painted white and varnished and the feet are painted red to resemble shoes.
measurements : Length without hat 32.2cm x width 18.5 cm

item : Hat
number : D32.1
component : Whole
construction : Tall hat made in three pieces, crown, crown top and brim. All pieces are sewn together, there is no lining or ribbon. The hat is missing two sections of the brim and the brim is loosely attached to the crown with some repair stitches.
measurements : Depth of brim 2.2cm, length of crown 4cm, Circumference of base of crown 10cm, circumference of top of crown 9cm, diameter of top 2.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Thick felt fabric used for all the pieces of the hat.
technique 1 : non-woven
technique 2 : felt
material – other : wool
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to attach the top to the crown and the crown to the brim in places.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Probably faded from black

component : Stitching 2
construction : Used to repair the hat, stitches between the crown and brim.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : ?,4Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Repair stitch, probably not original

item : Cap
number : D32.2
component : Whole
construction : Cap made in one piece, gathered into pleats at the back of the head and turned back around the face. The edges are trimmed with lace which is gathered into frills. It is tacked(stitched) under the chin to secure it onto the head, with no ribbons or ties.
measurements : Depth approx 3cm x length 3.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Fine cotton muslin fabric plain weave
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 34
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : possibly starched
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Lace
construction : Narrow strip of lace with an open work design
measurements : width approx 1.2cm
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : bobbin?
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to to gather the muslin, secure the cap to the head and attach the lace to the cap.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, tacking stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Apron
number : D32.3
component : Whole
construction : Apron made in one rectangular shaped piece gathered into a waistband made from the same fabric. There are separate ties attached to the waistband where it is fastened at the back in a loose bow. The edges of the apron are turned and finished. The hem is turned back even though it is a selvedge.
measurements : Length 15cm x width 21.7cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain weave cotton checked fabric
pattern : check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 22
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : repeat – 12 double white ends, 6 blue.
colour – weft : repeat – 12 white, 6 blue
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Ties
construction : Plain woven tape ends left raw.
measurements : Width 1cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 40
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to attach the ties to the waistband, the waistband to the apron and turn the edges of the apron
pattern : hand sewn
technique 1 : over stitch
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Bedgown
number : D32.4
component : Whole
construction : Short bedgown made from printed cotton. It has rounded shirt collar and ties tied into a large bow underneath chin. One back-panel and two front panels joined at the sides, both back and front extending into sleeves up to elbows, sleeves then completed with additional piece of fabric down to cuffs. The front panels are turned at the edges but have no form of fastening. Seam of lower sleeves is underneath rather than on top of arm, selveges at cuffs. Small triangular inserts on top of shoulders, collar and ties made from separate pieces of fabric. Edges turned and finished.
measurements : Length 13cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven cotton fabric printed with a floral design
pattern : Red-brown and yellow-brown flowers, on white against a blue ground
technique 1 : printed, woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : see pattern
colour – weft : see pattern
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to construct the bedgown and turn the edges.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Skirt
number : D32.5
component : Whole
construction : Skirt with vertical stripes of blue, red, light blue and white. Made from two pieces of fabric, seams down either side, RH seam selvedge to selvedge. Upper edge of skirt is gathered into a waistband made from the same fabric as the bedgown There is a 7.5cm long slit at centre back stitched together with black thread.
measurements : Length 18.5cm x inner circumference 43cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Weft-face striped fabric – linsey wolsey with linen warp.
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 12
thread count picks / rows per cm : 12
twist warp : Z
twist weft : red and navy s spun, blue and white z spun
fibre – warp : linen
fibre – warp : wool and cotton
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : weft stripe, pattern: 5 navy, 3 red, 3 blue, 6 white, 3 blue, 3 red, 5 navy.
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : Warp: red and navy-wool, blue and white-cotton.

component : Waistband
construction : Same fabric as D32.4 bedgown used to bind the top edge of the skirt.
pattern : Red-brown and yellow-brown flowers, on white against a blue ground
technique 1 : printed, woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : see pattern
colour – weft : see pattern
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used in construction and to attach skirt to waistband.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : ?,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Underskirt
number : D32.6
component : Whole
construction : Made from one piece with CB seam, upper edge pleated into waistband and open slightly at CB, the lower end of the slit is reinforced with buttonhole stitches in white thread. The top of the waistband is stitched together using white cotton thread (two threads used as one) – the stitches start at lower right, cross over twice diagonally and then come back down forming 2 crosses.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven wool flannel with raised surface
pattern : none
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 14
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used in construction and to attach
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, back stitch
twist yarn : ?, 3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Waistband
construction : Plain woven fabric
measurements : Width 2.5cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Chemise
number : D32.7
component : Whole
construction : Chemise made from two pieces with seams on both sides and turned hem. Bodice consists of flaps of fabric that lie loosely against chest and back and very short sleeves; the lower ends of the slits between the ‘flaps’ and the sleeves are reinforced with buttonhole stitches using white thread.

component : Fabric 1
construction : white plain woven fabric same as D32.6 waistband.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : The same thread as used in D32.6
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : buttonhole stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : ?, 3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Neckerchief
number : D32.8
component : Whole
construction : White neckerchief, square shape finished on all sides and folded into triangle. The ends are crossed over the chest, right over left and held in place with 1 pin. It is not visible when doll is fully dressed as it is covered up by the bed gown.

component : Fabric 1
construction : plain weave white cotton fabric same as D32.6 waistband and 32.7
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : The same thread as used in D32.6
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch
twist yarn : ?,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Knitting and needles
number : D32.9
component : Whole
construction : Small piece of circular knitting on 4 needles in grey wool yarn with ball of wool attached. The ball is secured to the apron with a pin.
measurements : Knitted sock: length 1.7cm x width 3cm, ball of yarn: length 5cm x width 3.5cm

component : Knitting
construction : Circular knitting
technique 1 : knitting
technique 2 : stocking stitch
thread count ends / wales per cm : 8
thread count picks / rows per cm : 8
twist yarn : S,2Z
material – other : wool
colour – other : blue/grey
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Needles
construction : 4 needles made from broken off pieces of stiff wire (hair pins?).
measurements : length 6cm

item : Bucket
number : D32.10
component : Whole
construction : Metal bucket (tinned?). Constructed in 3 parts with a base, side and handle which are soldered together. The handle is painted red and there are remains of paint on the side which suggests that it too may have been painted.