Welsh costume doll D33

number : D33

D33 front D33 reverse

NMW, St Fagans : 46.91

Costume:

apron, bedgown, skirt, 2 underskirts, shawl, neckerchief, and holds a baby wearing cloak and underskirts.

Body: made from wood. Torso and head made in one, arms and legs separate with joints at shoulder and elbow, hips and knees. The body is made from stuffed fabric.

Hat: silk plush

Cap: none

Height : 37.5cm; length of baby 12cm

General observations: The bold navy and red flannel fabric of the skirt is probably linsey-wolsey.

Date: about 1850

Provenance and history: Possibly from Pembrokeshire

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Doll made from wood. The doll wears hat, apron, bedgown, skirt, 2 underskirts, shawl, neckerchief, and holds a baby wearing cloak and underskirts. Torso and head made in one, arms and legs separate with joints at shoulder and elbow, hips and knees. The joints are held together with pegs of wood. Head, neck and upper torso, lower arms and lower legs are painted white, facial features are as follows: black cap, grey hair, black and blue eyes, black eyebrows, red lips and nostrils, pink cheeks. The shoes painted on in orange. All the painted parts are varnished. The left arm missing but there are remains of arm’s mechanism still at left shoulder. The doll also holds a baby wrapped inside her shawl. The head, sholuders and limbs are made from white porcelain with hair and facial features painted on in red and black and the shoes painted on in dark brown. The body is made from stuffed fabric, all limbs are intact. The arms and legs appear to be attached to fabric covered upper arms and legs simply by tight stitches. The seams along the sides of the arms and legs are overcast stitches. The fabric covered part of the legs is connected at the lower end by a thread.
measurements : Length of wooden doll 37.5cm x width 15cm, length of baby 12cm x width 5.2cm

item : Hat
number : D33.1
component : Whole
construction : Tall hat with tapered crown, constructed in 3 parts; crown, crown top and brim. Made from black silk plush on the outer parts and the inside of the brim and top. It has a stiffener of printed cardboard, visible only on the crown but probably used for the top and brim too. There is a hatband of black tape. The edge of brim is bound in folded black tape and stitched in place. The same black tape is used for ties, which cross over under the chin and are tied into a bow at the back of head. The inner lining is made from loosely woven fabric. Appears well made.
measurements : Brim width 2.8cm, crown length 6.2cm, diameter at top of crown 11cm, circumference at bottom of crown 16cm.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven fabric with an additional weft to create a long pile
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain? with napped pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24 (ground weave)
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24( ground weave)
twist warp : unable to detect
twist weft : unable to detect
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
material – other : pile weft silk
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stiffening Material
construction : Printed cardboard with red, orange yellow and blue ink depicting lettering, but it is not possible to decifer.
technique 1 : paper making
technique 2 : printing
material – other : cardboard
colour – other : various, see construction
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Lining
construction : extends halfway up inside the crown
measurements : length approx 4cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
finish : possibly starched
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Ribbon
construction : Ribbon used to bind the edge of the brim and 2 pieces attached to either side of the crown to tie the hat under the dolls chin.
measurements : Width of the ribbon 0.9cm length of ties 17.7cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 50
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26
twist warp : unable to detect
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Hatband
construction : Hatband made from plain woven black tape which is stitched to the crown in a few places and the ends are stitched together to resemble a bow.
measurements : width 1.1cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 40
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : unable to detect
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to construct the hat and attach the ribbons and lining.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, tacking stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Apron
number : D33.2
component : Whole
construction : Apron made from one piece of fabric with horizontal tuck 4.5cm up from hem secured with 2 rows of running stitches. The edges are turned and finished. The upper edge is gathered into a waistband of red wool tape which extends into ties which are secured in double-knot at CB.
measurements : length 11.3cm x width 12.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : balanced plain weave mixed fibre
pattern : navy and white check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool (navy) and cotton (white)
fibre – warp : wool (navy) and cotton (white)
colour – warp : repeat 12 navy, 12 white (repeat).
colour – weft : repeat 12 navy, 12 white.
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : white-cotton, navy-wool

component : Waistband
construction : Herringbone tape used to bind the top edge of the apron and extended to form the ties at the back. The tape is folded and sewn along the bottom edge and ends.
measurements : length 43.5cm x width 3cm
pattern : 2/2 twill used to create a herringbone pattern
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill, herringbone
thread count ends / wales per cm : 22
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to construct the apron, turn the edges and attach the waistband tape.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Bedgown
number : D33.3
component : Whole
construction : The bedgown is made from 3 tapered panels, two front and one back, plus one panel for each elbow length sleeve, with seams under the arms. The CF is open with only a stitch across the chest. At the neck there is a small collar which is sewn closed. The corners of the front panels are turned back and sewn close to the seam on the bedgown. Turn-backs on ends of sleeves are finished by stitching black silk ribbon over the edges. The left sleeve is tucked in (arm is missing).
measurements : length 23.5cm x width 53.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Mixed fibre flannel with weft stripes – linsey-wolsey?
pattern : striped
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 11
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : wool and cotton
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : Repeat: 74 navy, 12 red, 12 navy, 12 white,12 navy, 12 red.
finish : loomstate?
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : Weft: Navy-wool, red-wool, white-cotton. The warp threads are not evenly spaced and there are some randon double yarns. At the hem of the CB panel there is a selvedge where double yarns have also been used.

component : Fabric 2
construction : Used to make a small collar from one piece of fabric which has been folded over to bind the neckline of the bedgown. Same as used in D33.4. Mixed fibre flannel, fairly dense plain weave with a weft stripe – linsey wolsey?
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 10
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : navy Z spun, red S spun
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : repeat – 160 navy, 10 red, 6 navy, 10 red, 6 navy,10 red, 6 navy, 10 red
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Ribbon
construction : Used to finish the edges of the sleeve cuffs. Same as used for the ties in D33.1
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 50
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26
twist warp : unable to detect
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to construct the bedgown and turn the edges.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Previous repair / conservation: exposed warps secured with couching stitch over black fulled wool support patch using black cotton thread, the same thread is also used to make the stitch across the chest, sewn along the right CF panel seam and secure the CF panel corners (this could mean that this feature is not original)
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch, back stitch, couching stitch
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Skirt
number : D33.4
component : Whole
construction : Made from 3 pieces joined with 3 unfinished seams, one at each side, and at CB. Hem is turned but unfinished and secured with two rows of running stitches. The skirt is gathered into pleats, 3 on each side and 1 at the back. This gives the appearance of a flat fronted skirt. The top is bound with twill tape forming a waistband which overlaps slightly at the back and is stitched to itself.
measurements : Length 17.5cm x inner circumference 42cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Mixed fibre flannel, fairly dense plain weave with a weft stripe – linsey wolsey?
pattern : stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 10
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : navy Z , red S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : repeat – 160 navy, 10 red, 6 navy, 10 red, 6 navy,10 red, 6 navy, 10 red
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Waistband
construction : Twill tape folded in half and used to bind the top edge of the skirt.
measurements : folded width 1.9cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used in construction and turn the edges. Same thread as used in D33.3
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, slip stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Used to sew on the waistband and fasten it at the back. The ends of these threads are wound round the waist and are tied at the front in a knot.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, tacking stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : coated with un known substance possibly wax
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching 3
construction : 4 modern looking white threads tacked in to the waistband possibly an old repair
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : S,6Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Underskirt 1
number : D33.5
component : Whole
construction : Made from one piece with a French seam at CB. It has one horizonal 1.3cm wide pleat close to the hem secured with running stitches. The hem is turned and finished (selvedge). The top of the skirt is gathered up in to a waistband made from the same fabric.
measurements : Length approx 16cm x inner circumference 33cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain balanced weave cotton fabric
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used in construction, to turn the edges and attach the waistband.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : ?,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Underskirt 2
number : D33.6
component : Whole
construction : Made from one piece of fabric joined with flat unfinished seam at the CB.The lower edge is turned and finished with a line of running stitches at the lower hem and slip stitches along the upper edge. It is unclear how the skirt is fixed at the waist because it is inaccessable
measurements : length 12.5cm x inner circumference 23.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : cream fulled wool plain weave.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : fulled and raised
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to construct the skirt and turn the edges. Same thread as used in D33.4 stitching 2
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : coated with un known substance possibly wax
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Shawl
number : D33.7
component : Whole
construction : Nursing shawl made from one large piece of fabric folded in half lengthways creating a double layer, both selvedges folded on top of each other on the right side. The top and bottom edges are unfinished. Shawl held together at centre front with several small stitches using red thread.
measurements : Width of fabric 76cm selvedge to selvedge length of shawl 12cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : red plain woven wool flannel with a raised surface.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 16
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to fasten the shawl at the front .
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : back stitch
twist yarn : S,3Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : red
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Neckerchief
number : D33.8
component : Whole
construction : Triangular piece of printed cotton. Selvedge on right side, other edges unfinished. Held together with small stitches at CF
measurements : length from nape of neck to point of triangle on scarf 7.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Fine balanced plain weave
pattern : dark brown thorny branch design on brown ground
technique 1 : printed, woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 36
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : dark brown printing ink
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Stitches used to hold the neckerchief closed at the front, same thread as used in D33.5.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : ?,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Baby’s cloak
number : D33.9
component : Whole
construction : Baby wears a cloak made from 1 square piece of fabric which is bound in blue silk ribbon on all four edges. The cloak is held in place by some small stitches at the doll’s neck, which turn into running stitches that continue around the back of the neck.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Same as used in D33.6
measurements : length 9cm x width 9cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : fulled and raised
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Blue silk ribbon with ribbed edge detail.
measurements : width 1.7cm
pattern : 2 thicker s spun warp yarns woven in to create the ribbed edge
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 48
thread count picks / rows per cm : 48
twist warp : S
twist weft : unable to detect
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : blue
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : used to attach the ribbon around the edge of the cloak and fasten the cloak under the chin.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : back stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Baby’s underskirt 1
number : D33.10
component : Whole
construction : Underskirt made in one piece with a French seam at CB and turned and finished hem. The top edge is turned in and gathered with a thread around the torso.
measurements : length 8.3cm x inner circumference 12.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven balanced weave
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching
construction : Used to construct the skirt, turn the edges and gather the top. Same as thread used in D33.9
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : over stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Baby’s underskirt 2
number : D33.11
component : Whole
construction : Short, knee length underskirt made in one piece with a flat seam at CB. The waist is gathered up with stitches and the hem is turned once. The seam is sewn with herringbone stitches and the hem is sewn with a combination of herringbone and feather stitch.
measurements : length approx 4cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : white fulled plain woven wool with a raised surface, same as that used in D33.6
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : fulled and raised
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to construct the skirt and turn the edges. Same thread as used in D33.9
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : herringbone and feather stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

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