Welsh costume doll D34

number : D34

D34 front D34 reverse

NMW, St Fagans : 51.141

Costume: apron, bedgown, skirt, petticoat, 2 shawls and neckerchief.

Body: painted wood. The doll has fully articulated limbs, with joints at shoulders, elbows, hips and knees, carved from pine with pegged joints.

Baby: wood with lower legs painted white with red shoes.

Hat: silk plush

Cap: none

Height : 32cm

General observations: The black nursing shawl encloses a doll and covers a plain red shawl.

Date: mid 19th century

Provenance and history: formerly owned by a woman from Abergavenny.

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Wooden doll and baby wearing apron, bedgown, skirt, petticoat, 2 shawls and neckerchief. The doll has fully articulated limbs, with joints at shoulders, elbows, hips and knees, carved from pine with pegged joints. The upper torso, neck and head of both doll and baby are painted white with a layer of varnish. Other features include black hair, red lips and nostrils, blue and black eyes and pink cheeks. The lower sections of the arms and legs are painted with a white pigment. The baby also has a carved nose whereas the doll has a completely flat face. The lower right arm is painted and varnished but the left arm is a replacement (conservation treatment). The legs are painted white from the knee down with black boots painted on from the lower calf, this does not appear to be varnished. The baby has lower legs painted white with red shoes.
measurements : length 32cm x width 14.5cm

item : Apron
number : D34.1
component : Whole
construction : Apron made in one piece with turned but un-finished edges, the stitches are machine sewn. The top of the apron is gathered into a waistband made from a strip of fabric with frayed edges which is tied in the back using a double-knot, one end is long, the other short.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven checked fabric, balanced weave.
measurements : length 18.3cm x width 16.5cm
pattern : checked
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : Repeat – 6 white and, 4 blue
colour – weft : Repeat – 8 white, 4 blue.
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine stitching used to turn the edges of the apron. (2 different threads)
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : both threads: Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown and white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : The white is the top-stitching thread and the brown is the bobbin thread. The apron was sewn from the wrong side so the bobbin thread is on the right side.

component : Waistband
construction : Plain woven fabric no pattern
measurements : width 0.9cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : used to attach the waistband to the skirt same as the white thread used to construct the apron.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Bedgown
number : D34.2
component : Whole
construction : Bedgown made mostly in the same material as the skirt but with stripes running horizontally. Made in four pieces consisting of a train, two sleeves and a strip of different fabric wrapped around the torso to which the other parts are attached.The train is gathered at the waist and tacked to the underside of the bodice strip. The hem has two pleats and the corners are turned in to create a rounded effect. The bodice consists of a wide strip of fabric with unfinished edges, which lies across the back of the waist and crosses upwards over the chest, left over right.The sleeves are seamed under the arm and the edge is turned under at the cuff but unfinished. The sleeve head is left raw and simply tacked to the bodice strip.
measurements : Train length 18.5cm x width 13cm. Sleeve length 10cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven fabric with an equally spaced weft stripe and use of a slubby yarn in the weft.
pattern : weft -stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 36
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : repeat – 6 yellow, 13 brown, 5 yellow, 13 brown.
finish : warp is mercerised?
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : The brown weft is a slightly slubby yarn which adds texture to the fabric.

component : Fabric 2
construction : Plain woven fabric, balanced weave no pattern
measurements : width 3cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 24
thread count picks / rows per cm : 24
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : used to attach the train to the bodice, construct the sleeves and turn the edges on the bedgown. Same as the brown thread used in D34.1 stitching 1
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, blind hemming stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching 2
construction : Used to attach the sleeves to the bodice
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : random tacking stitches
twist yarn : S,6Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Skirt
number : D34.3
component : Whole
construction : Made from the same fabric as the bedgown, constructed in one piece with the seam at the back, just to the right of centre it is opened out flat but left raw. The upper edge is folded into random pleats which are stitched to the underskirt below. The hem is turned and finished.
measurements : length 21cm x inner circumference 41cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven fabric with an equally spaced weft stripe and use of a slubby yarn in the weft. Same fabric as bedgown.
pattern : weft -stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 36
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : repeat – 6 yellow, 13 brown, 5 yellow, 13 brown.
finish : warp is mercerised?
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : The brown weft is a slightly slubby yarn which adds texture to the fabric.

component : Stitching
construction : Same thread as D34.2 used to construct the skirt, turn the edges and attach it to the underlying layers.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, slip sticth
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Underskirt
number : D34.4
component : Whole
construction : Made in one piece with machine-stitched seam at CB doll is dressed with seam facing outwards. Selvedge along lower hem and raw edge at waist, the waist is pleated and held in place with random stitches.
measurements : length approx 19cm x inner circumference 28cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : plain woven muslin
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Machine stitching used to construct the skirt, same white thread used in D34.1 stitching 1.
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching
construction : Hand stitching used to secure the waist, both the same white thread used in D34.1 stitching 1.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Shawl 1
number : D34.5
component : Whole
construction : Black woollen nursing shawl made in one piece with unfinished edges cut to an uneven strip with a point at the widest end and a straight edge at the shortest end. It is wrapped around the right shoulder, but underneath the left arm. The right end is tucked under the left end. The baby is lying underneath right end but on top of left end; the left end of the shawl is pinned in place at the front.
measurements : length 36cm x width 6.3cm
general observations : There are several rust marks on either end of the shawl where the pin has been moved around in the past.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Fulled, woven fabric, unable to detect the type of weave
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : ?
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : fulled and calendered on the warp face
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Shawl 2
number : D34.6
component : Whole
construction : Shawl made in one triangular shaped piece with a folded edges across the top. All the edges are unfinished, the ends are tucked in underneath the apron.
measurements : length 30cm x width from top of folded edge to point 12cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven flannel with raised surface
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : rasied

item : Neckerchief
number : D34.7
component : Whole
construction : Neckerchief made from one piece of fabric which is wrapped and stitched tightly around the torso in a random fashion the edges are unfinished and fraying.
measurements : unable to gain full access

component : Fabric 1
construction : Mixed fibre plain weave.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 40
thread count picks / rows per cm : 36
twist warp : S
twist weft : unable to detect
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : un-dyed
finish : the warp appears to have be coated with an unidentified substance
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching
construction : used to secure the neckerchief to the torso. The same brown thread as used in D34.1 stitching 1
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : random tacking stitches
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Baby’s dress
number : D34.8
component : Whole
construction : Dress made in one piece with an outward facing seam at CB. It is wrapped around arms and secured with stitches, it extends beyond the baby~s feet and the hem is a selvedge.
measurements : length 14cm x inner circumference 13cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven muslin, same as used in D34.4
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to construct the dress and secure it to the doll. The same white thread as used in D34.1
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Baby’s shawl
number : D34.9
component : Whole
construction : Shoulder shawl made in one piece with unfinished edges.The upper edge is folded inwards and the shawl lies right over left across the chest. It is secured with two stitches underneath left arm.
measurements : width with folded edge 4cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven muslin, same as used in D34.4
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to secure the shawl to the doll. The same white thread as used in D34.1
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Baby’s cap
number : D34.10
component : Whole
construction : Cap made from one piece of fabric folded in half with the fold edge surrounding the face. The edges are unfinished and the back of the cap is gathered at the back and secured underneath the chin with a few stitches.
measurements : length 2.5cm x width 4.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Fine open weave muslin
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : Possibly starched
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to gather the cap and secure it to the doll. The same white thread as used in D34.1
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, tacking stitches
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

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