Welsh costume doll D35

number : D35

D35 front D35 reverse

NMW, St Fagans : 39.581

Costume: apron, dress, 2 underskirts, 2 shawls, socks and a chemise.

Body: composition wax head and shoulder plate. The body is made from fabric, probably stuffed with rags.

Hat: none

Cap: none

Height : 42cm

General observations: This doll has a dress rather than a gown or bedgown and there is nothing particularly Welsh about the doll other than, perhaps, the woven fabric of the dress.

Date: 1825-1830, given to a member of the donor’s family in 1841.

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Doll with compostion wax head and shoulder plate.The doll wears an apron, dress, 2 underskirts, 2 shawls, socks and a chemise. The body is made from fabric, probably stuffed with rags. The legs are made as part of the body and shaped to form the feet. The soles of the feet are lined with kid leather. The arms are made from the same fabric as the body with leather for the hands and stuffed with sawdust. There are only two fingers on each hand. The facial features of the doll are painted on before the wax layers, they include red lips and nostrils, pink cheeks and black eyebrows. The eyes are blue, white and black glass. The doll has no remaining hair.
measurements : length 42cm x width 22cm

item : Apron
number : D35.1
component : Whole
construction : Short, printed apron made in one piece gathered into a waistband which extends to tie at the back in a double knot, the waistband is folded in on both sides but not sewn, there is a pin through the centre of the waistband and the top of the apron. The tie is made in two pieces with a seam under the left arm. The front of the apron is decorated with two rossettes made from ribbon and a band of lace along the hem.
measurements : length 11.3cm x 15cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Printed twill woven fabric used to make the main part of the apron.
pattern : polychrome floral design, 1/2 twill, weft faced
technique 1 : printed, woven
technique 2 : 1/2 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 32
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : undyed before printing
colour – weft : undyed before printing
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : The warp is more tightly spun than the weft. Fabric possibly Indian in origin.

component : Fabric 2
construction : Printed twill woven fabric used to make the waistband and ties.
measurements : folded width 1.5cm
pattern : polychrome floral design, 2/2 twill, weft faced
technique 1 : printed, woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 40
thread count picks / rows per cm : 40
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : blue before printing?
colour – weft : blue before printing?
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : Possibly block printed and discharged. Indian in origin?

component : Fabric 3
construction : plain woven fabric used to make two small circular shaped rossettes for the apron. Attached 2cm down from the bottom of the waistband
measurements : Diameter 2.5cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 40
thread count picks / rows per cm : 64
twist warp : spin not detected
twist weft : spin not detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : blue
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Lace
construction : Narrow band of lace with open pattern attached to the bottom of the apron.
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : bobbin?
twist yarn : ?, 2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to attach the waistband, rosettes and lace to the apron, and turn the edges of the apron.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, over stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : wool
colour – other : green
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Used to extend the length of the waistband by making a vertical seam. Also used to construct the rosettes
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : ?,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Dress
number : D35.2
component : Whole
construction : Mid Victorian style dress with skirt, bodice and sleeves in a tartan fabric. The skirt is made in two pieces with seams at the right side and one at the CB with an opening at the top. The lower part of the inside is lined with a strip of a different fabric, made from three pieces. It extends to the mid calf and is gathered in at the waist and sewn to the bodice. The bodice is made in two pieces with seams underboth arms. The neckline is high at the front but drops a little lower at the back. It is fastened with two lacquered metal hook and eye clasps (the top one is made from thread), one at either end. Both sides of the bodice are decorated with one length of gimp, attached to form a v-shape which starts and ends at the back, the lower part of the bodice front comes to a point. The neckline, lower edge, sleeve heads and cuffs are trimmed with silk cord piping. The neckline and cuff are trimmed with a band of narrow lace over the silk. The bodice is fully lined with cotton and the lower part is reinforced with a strip of linen. The sleeves are full length, with gathers at the sleeve head but tight at the wrist. Each is made in one piece with a seam under the arm and sewn into the bodice. The seams are loosely overcast but still fraying.
measurements : Skirt length 19.5cm x inner circumference 81cm, bodice length 9cm, sleeve length 7.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Used to construct the main part of the dress, including skirt, bodice and sleeves. Twill woven wool with a three colour tartan pattern.
pattern : Tartan 2/2 twill pattern:
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 22
thread count picks / rows per cm : 22
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : repeat – 10 brown, 4 red, 10 brown, 6 white, 4 red, 6 white, 4 red, 6 white.
colour – weft : repeat – 8 brown, 4 red, 8 brown, 6 white, 4 red, 6 white, 4 red, 6 brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 2
construction : Plain woven fabric used to line the inside of the lower part of the skirt, covering the hem.
measurements : Width of the strip of lining 5.6cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
finish : glazed or calendered surface
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Fabric 3
construction : Plain woven calico used to line the inside of the bodice.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 36
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 4
construction : plain woven fabric used to reinforce the waist of the lining
measurements : Width 1.5cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Piping
construction : Bias cut plain woven fabric used to encase a cord and use as a decorative trim on the neckline, bodice edge and sleeves.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 48
twist warp : no spin detected
twist weft : no spin detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : The cord is not visible for examination.

component : Lace
construction : Narrow band of lace sewn along all sides to the bodice and cuffs.
measurements : Width 1.4cm
pattern : Honeycomb open work and solid circles along the edge.
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : bobbin?
twist yarn : Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Braid
construction : Simple looped gimp used to trim the front and back of the bodice. Applied in one piece with the ends at the back.
measurements : Width 0.7cm
technique 1 : cord making
technique 2 : braid making
twist yarn : Z
material – other : silk
colour – other : black threads
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : cord appears to be a brown cellulosic fibre but it is not fully accessible.

component : Stitching 2
construction : Used to construct the dress and apply the linings. And to secure the gimp and hook and eye fastenings
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, over stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Used to attach the back bodice panels to the front and secure the lace.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, over stitch
twist yarn : S,3Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Underskirt 1
number : D35.3
component : Whole
construction : Made in one piece with a neat, turned seam at CB. There is a wide turning on the hem 3.2cm and it is secured with two lines of stitching. The top edge is turned to make a casing which is then threaded with a cord to gather. There is an opening in the seam at the top for undressing.
measurements : length 18cm x inner circumference 57.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Twill woven fabric
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 44
thread count picks / rows per cm : 40
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used in construction and turn the edges. Same as D35.2 stitching 2
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : S,3Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Cord
construction : Used to gather the skirt into the waist. It is threaded through the casing, wrapped around the front and tied in a bow.
technique 1 : cord making
twist yarn : Z,2S,6?
material – other : cotton
colour – warp : un-dyed
colour – weft : un-dyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Underskirt 2
number : D35.4
component : Whole
construction : Made in three pieces with a waistband of a different material. The skirt is sewn with two side seams and seam at CB with an opening for undressing. The hem is turned and finished but the seams are raw (there is a selvedge on the left side). The skirt is pleated into the waistband which is made into a casing to thread a cord through for fastening. The cord is wrapped over at the back, taken around to the right side and tied in a bow.
measurements : length 16cm x inner circumference 60cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : plain woven flannel
technique 1 : woven
thread count ends / wales per cm : 10
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : pale green
colour – weft : pale green
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 2
construction : plain woven fabric
measurements : width 1.7cm
technique 1 : woven
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 32
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : linen
fibre – warp : linen
colour – warp : un-dyed
colour – weft : un-dyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Cord
construction : Used to gather the waist. It is threaded through the casing, wrapped around to the right side and tied in a bow.
technique 1 : cord making
twist yarn : Z,2S,12?
material – other : cotton
colour – other : un-dyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : This is a thicker cord than the one in underskirt 1 but it is made in the same way.

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to construct the skirt, attach the waistband and turn the edges. The same thread as used in D35.2 stitching 2
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : S,3Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Chemise
number : D35.5
component : Whole
construction : Chemise made in two pieces with seams at the sides. The bodice is cut low to match the dress bodice and has straps over the shoulders. The edges are turned and finished.
measurements : length from shoulder to hem 19cm x inner circumference 36cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven fine lawn.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 52
thread count picks / rows per cm : 52
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to construct the chemise and turn the edges. The same thread as used in D35.2 stitching 2
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : S,3Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Shawl 1
number : D35.6
component : Whole
construction : Shoulder shawl made from one piece of net with applied braid decoration and a band of lace sewn to the bottom edge. It is dressed with the ends crossed right over left but not secured to the layers beneath.
measurements : length 27cm x width 8cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : machine made net
pattern : honyecomb pattern
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : machine?
twist yarn : Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Lace
construction : Narrow band of lace sewn to the bottom edge of the shawl (one piece) the net part of the design looks identical to the main part of the shawl and the thread is the same.
measurements : length 43.5cm width 1.3cm
pattern : honeycomb with a wave and spot desgin and scalloped edge.
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : machine?

component : Stitching 1
construction : The same thread as used to construct the lace and net is used to attach the lace edge and turn the top edge so it is virtually invisible.

item : Shawl 2
number : D35.7
component : Whole
construction : Short shoulder shawl crocheted in two yarns. It is made in one piece with a pointed shape for the back and long ends which are wrapped left over right across the front and taken around to meet the point at the back.
measurements : length 33cm x width 9.8cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Fabric constructed from one continuous yarn with a second used for the edging.
pattern : simple knotted technique to create a diamond pattern with scalloped edges.
technique 1 : crochet
twist yarn : S
material – other : wool
colour – other : main part pale green, edging yellow
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Socks
number : D35.8
component : Whole
construction : Short knitted socks made in one piece and shaped to fit the foot.
measurements : length top to sole 3cm x length of sole 4cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : knitting wool used to construct the socks
technique 1 : knitting
technique 2 : moss stitch
thread count ends / wales per cm : 7
thread count picks / rows per cm : 8
twist yarn : ?,2Z
material – other : wool
colour – other : purple