Welsh costume doll D36

number : D36

D36 front D36 reverse

NMW, St Fagans : 59.133

Costume: cap, apron, bedgown, skirt, chemise, drawers, shawl, neckerchief and separate sleeves.

Body: wooden articulated limbs, joints at shoulders, elbows, hips and knees.

Hat: none

Cap: net with lace trim

Height : 29cm

General observations: The long blue flannel gown over a plain red skirt. The shawl is brocade fabric.

Date: mid 19th century

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : Wooden doll wearing cap, apron, bedgown, skirt, chemise, drawers, shawl, neckerchief and separate sleeves. The doll has articulated limbs, joints at shoulders, elbows, hips and knees. The head neck and upper torso have been covered with an unknown substance possibly plaster, on to which facial features are painted; black eyebrows and eye outlines, red lips and nostrils, blue and white eyes. The face is not varnished and has a matt appearance. The lower arms are thickly painted in pink and varnished. The legs, from the knee joint down are painted white with blue shoes and also varnished. The crown of the head is not covered in plaster but painted black; a long plait of real brown hair has been wound round her head with 1 end forming a fringe and a length of plait circling round over the fringe (hair is currently attached with four small tabs of double-sided tape, presumably a later repair. But it appears as though the hair was originally stitched in place as there are remains of brown thread.
measurements : length 29cm x width 20cm

item : Cap
number : D36.1
component : Whole
construction : Cap made from fine net with a gathered lace trim around the edge. The cap is fastened with a satin ribbon under chin which is tied in a bow at the right side. The bow has become detached from the RH side and is currently held by a pin.
measurements : length 7cm x width 7cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Fine net.
pattern : Hexagonal mesh
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : machine?
twist yarn : ?,2Z
material – other : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : lace
construction : Band of narrow lace applied around the edges of the net cap. The lace is left flat across the back of the head but is gathered into pleats at the top and sides with additional shorter lengths applied to both sides of face.
measurements : Width 1.2cm
pattern : Diamond shaped net with leaf desgin and looped edging.
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : machine?
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Satin ribbon with picot edges. The ribbon is sewn to the left side of the cap and attached by a pin to the right side. A separate piece of ribbon has been made into a six pointed bow with two long tails, which is sewn to the right side of the ribbon under the chin.
measurements : Width 0.8cm
pattern : picot edging
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : satin
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 34
twist warp : no spin detected
twist weft : no spin detected
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to attach the lace to the edges of the cap, create the bow and fix the ribbons to the cap.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : back stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : ?,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Apron
number : D36.2
component : Whole
construction : Apron made in one piece from checked fabric. The top of the apron is made into a channel through which a woven tape is threaded to gather the waist. The tape is tied in a double-bow at back. The edges are turned and finished.
measurements : length 10cm x width 25cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Twill woven fabric with a checked pattern
pattern : check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 34
thread count picks / rows per cm : 22
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : repeat – 8 white, 8 brown
colour – weft : repeat – 6 white, 6 brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Waistband
construction : Narrow plain woven tape used to gather the waist of the apron and tie it on to the doll.
measurements : Width 0.6cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 44
thread count picks / rows per cm : 32
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Stitching
construction : used to make the channel in the apron and turn the edges.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : very neatly stitched, using the colours in the wool fabric to disguise the stitching.

item : Bedgown
number : D36.3
component : Whole
construction : Bedgown currently being worn back to front. The skirt is made from one piece and gathered into a strip of piping around waist which is sewn to the bodice, the edges are turned and finished. The bodice is made in three pieces, seamed at sides and shoulders. It has short, elbow length sleeves with a narrow cuff, the fabric is gathered at shoulder and cuff. The bodice is lined with fine woven fabric also constructed from three pieces but the sleeves are not lined. There is also a strip of piping around neck. The front of the bedgown is fastened with two lacquered metal hooks and stitched loops at neck and waist.
measurements : length 18.5cm x circumference of hem 73.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain weave flannel with raised surface.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 20
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : blue
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 2
construction : Plain weave lawn used to line bodice
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 48
thread count picks / rows per cm : 48
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to construct the bedgown, and turn the edges. At the waist and side seams of the bodice the thread has been used double.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : ?,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : over stich is also used to fix the edges of the seams inside the bodice

item : Sleeves
number : D36.4
component : Whole
construction : Separate printed cotton sleeves extending from the elbow down to the wrist. Each sleeve is made in one piece with a neat French seam on the inside, the seam is open at the cuff. The cuff is gathered with stitches and the top edge is made into a casing and threaded with a draw-string to fasten it to the arm. The right sleeve is secured to sleeve of bedgown with a short metal pin. On upper part of right sleeve a narrow red silk ribbon has been tied into a bow it is assumed that the left sleeve had a ribbbon too but this has been lost.
measurements : length 6.3cm x width 3cm. Length of slit at cuff 1.6cm.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Printed plain woven fabric
pattern : Small scale print on white ground with black branches and berries and red and purple flowers.
technique 1 : printed, woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 32
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Fine plain woven ribbon
measurements : Width 0.3cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 64
twist warp : unable to detect
twist weft : unable to detect
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to construct the sleeves, gather the cuff, make the casing and turn the edges.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : ?, 3S

component : Cord
construction : Thick yarn used to thread through the top of each sleeve to pull it tight to the arm.
technique 1 : spinning
thread count ends / wales per cm :
twist yarn : Z,6Z
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Skirt
number : D36.5
component : Whole
construction : Skirt made in three pieces consisting of a skirt, bodice and waistband. The skirt is made from one piece with a seam at the CB it has a broad hem and a 6cm long slit at waist. The skirt is gathered at the waist and stitched to a white cotton waistband which is folded lengthways with the open end at the top. There is a small button sewn on to the right side of the waistband but no corresponding buttonhole. The bodice is made from the same white cotton and is joined to the petticoat by gathering at waist and sandwiching in-between folded waistband. There are round arm-holes cut into the bodice which are finished along the top but left raw underneath the arm.There are turned edges along neckline, down centre back opening. A different button to the first is sewn to the top of the bodice on the right side, this button has corresponding buttonhole
measurements : whole length 22cm, length of skirt 16.5cm x inner circumference 66.5cm length of bodice and waist band 5.5cm
general observations : Both buttons appear to be mother of pearl, but have not been tested.

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven flannel with raised surface
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 18
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Fabric 2
construction : Plain woven lawn
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 44
thread count picks / rows per cm : 52
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to construct the skirt and turn the edges.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, herringbone stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : yellow
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Used to construct the bodice, attach the buttons, make the button hole, turn the edges and atatch the skirt to the waistband.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, buttonhole stitch
twist yarn : Z,4S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Chemise
number : D36.6
component : Whole
construction : Full length chemise made from 2 pieces of fabric with seams along sides. There is 4cm long slit at CF and a small pleat at lower end of slit secured with one stitch, the neck is held together with a white thread attached to either side of slit and tied in a double-knot. It has small sleeves made from the same piece of fabric with seams at the shoulders and underarms. Lace has been used to trim the neck and cuffs.
measurements : length 17cm x inner circumference 29cm
general observations : possibly fitted back to front,

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven fabric
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : linen
fibre – warp : linen?
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : lace
construction : Band of narrow machine made lace used to trim the neckline and sleeves
measurements : 0.6cm wide
pattern : three rows of ring shapes
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : ?
twist yarn : ?,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : this may be tatting? crochet?

component : Tie
construction : Thread used to tie the bodice closed at the front.
technique 1 : spinning
thread count ends / wales per cm :
twist yarn : ?,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to construct the chemise and attach the timmings. Same as the thread used in D36.5 stitching 2
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : Z,4S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Drawers
number : D36.7
component : Whole
construction : Wide drawers made in 2 pieces with seams on inside leg and and the CF and CB of the upper part. There is a slit 3cm down from the waist which is made into a casing to thread a tape through for fastening, it is tied at back with single bow.
measurements : length 12cm x circumference of leg 9cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Same as used in D36.6.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 26
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : linen
fibre – warp : linen?
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Same as used in D36.6.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : slip stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : Z,4S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Drawstring
construction : Same as the waistband tape used in D36.2.
measurements : Width 0.6cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 44
thread count picks / rows per cm : 32
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Shawl
number : D36.8
component : Whole
construction : Triangular shaped woven shawl with looped fringe stitched to its two shorter sides. The shawl is made from one piece of fabric with a woven abstract floral pattern. The top side of the triangle is folded at the CB to conform to curve of neck, the folds are held together with small stitch. The top edge is turned and finished and the lower edges are folded over to the front of the garment and held in place by the stitches securing the fringe. The shawl is not secured but simply held by ends tucked under waistband of apron.
measurements : length not inc fringe 19cm x Width 6.6 cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : A figured brocade fabric in a twill weave with an abstract pattern in four colours.
pattern : abstract floral desgin in green, white, red and blue.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/1 twill brocade
thread count ends / wales per cm : 44
thread count picks / rows per cm : 56
twist warp : S
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : blue
colour – weft : blue, red, green and white
finish : cotton mercerised?
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : more analysis required

component : Fringe
construction : A looped fringe.
measurements : width 2cm
technique 1 : braid making
twist yarn : looped cord is 2Z
material – other : silk and wool
colour – other : blue
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to attach the fringe and turn the edges of the shawl. The same thread as used in D36.2
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch, herringbone stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : brown
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Neckerchief
number : D36.9
component : Whole
construction : Triangular white cotton neckerchief made from one piece of fabric, folded at upper CB to conform to curve of neck; folds held together with small stitch. Small, slip-stitched turned edges.The neckerchief is not stitched in place and is barely visible beneath shawl.
measurements : length 13.4cm x width 3.8cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven ground with a twill woven grid pattern.
pattern : Plain ground weave with 5/1 twill every c.40 yarns, creating a pattern of small squares. Every second square is filled with a 4-lobed motif, also woven in.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain and 5/1 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 42
thread count picks / rows per cm : 42
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed

component : Stitching
construction : Used to turn the edges and secure the fold at the top. Same thread as used in D36.5 stitching 2
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : back stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : Z,4S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

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