Welsh costume doll D37

number : D37

D37 front D37 reverse

NMW, St Fagans : 67.289

Costume: hat, cap, apron, cloak, bedgown, skirt, 2 underskirts, chemise and stockings.

Body: The head, shoulders, forearms, and calves made from composition material and the body made from fabric stuffed with woodchip.

Hat: silk plush

Cap: cotton gauze

Height : 39cm without hat

General observations: The doll is unusual in having the features of an old woman. She has a full-length red cloak of red flannel with feather stitch decoration. The bedgown has long sleeves with a short tail.

Date: late 19th century (dated by Tecwyn Vaughan Jones)

CONSERVATOR’S REPORT
For an explanation of the structure of this report see Welsh doll project. See also glossary of terms

component : Whole
construction : A compostion doll wearing hat, cap, apron, cloak, bedgown, skirt, 2 underskirts, chemise and stockings. The head, shoulders, forearms, and calves made from compostition material and the body made from fabric stuffed with woodchip. The facial features are painted as follows; grey eyebrows, white, blue and black eyes, pink cheeks, red lips, nostrils and forehead wrinkles and white teeth. The hair is lengths of mohair (?) joined together with a line of stitching along the centre of the head where a parting would be.
measurements : Length without hat 39cm x width 20cm

item : Hat
number : D37.1
component : Whole
construction : Tall hat constructed in three main sections, brim, crown and crown top. It is siffened with cardboard and covered in plush, adhered and stitched. The underside of the brim is patched together from three pieces, the upper side of the brim, crown top and crown are each made from one piece of plush. The inside is not lined so the cardbord is visible. There is a hatband. An elastic strap under the chin appears to be a later addition.
measurements : Height 8.5cm, brim diameter 11.5cm, brim width 3cm, height of crown 6.5cm, top of crown 11cm, base of crown 17cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : cotton ground weave with additional silk wefts which creates a long pile
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain? with napped pile
thread count ends / wales per cm : 48
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z,2S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton and silk
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : brown
colour – other : black silk pile
finish : napped
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stiffening Material
construction : Thin cardboard in two colours, used to line the inside of the crown. The brim is made from a thicker cardboard.
technique 1 : paper making
material – other : cardboard
colour – other : red and pale orange
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Hatband
construction : Gros-grain ribbon wrapped around the base of the crown and stitched in place. The ribbon is tied in a small bow at the front.
technique 1 : woven
thread count ends / wales per cm : 68
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : no spin detected
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : silk
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Tie
construction : Synthetic cord with an elastic core, attached to both sides of the crown base to fasten the hat on to the doll. Probably not original.
measurements : length 15cm
technique 1 : ?
twist yarn : at least 4 yarns making up the cord which is braided around the elastic
material – other : synthetic fibre and elastic
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to construct the hat and attach the tie and hat band.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking stitch, over stitch
twist yarn : Z,6S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Cap
number : D37.2
component : Whole
construction : Cap constructed in one piece with a stitch gathered edge to fit the head and create a decorative frill.
measurements : length 12cm x width 11cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain open woven fabric
technique 1 : woven
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 28
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to gather the edge of the cap.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,4S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Cloak
number : D37.3
component : Whole
construction : Long red cloak made in two pieces, a rectangular shape for the main part and a hood. The hem and sides are sewn with a decorative embroidery stitch and left raw. The top edge is turned and gathered

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven flannel with a raised surface.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain weave
thread count ends / wales per cm : 18
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : red
colour – weft : red
finish : raised
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : possibly piece dyed

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to turn the edges and embroider the cloak. The thread is similar to knitting yarn.
technique 1 : embroidered
technique 2 : herringbone stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : wool
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : loosley spun and plyed

component : Stitching 2
construction : Used to gather the cloak and hood and attach the hood and ribbon tie to the cloak.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : back stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : Z,4S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Ribbon
construction : Mixed fibre corded ribbon with prominent selvedges
measurements : width 1.5cm length 12cm
pattern : multicoloured warp in selvedges
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 48
thread count picks / rows per cm : 48
twist warp : Z,2S
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : silk and cotton
fibre – warp : silk
colour – warp : black and brown, warp threads bundled together at the edges to create prominent selvedges: 2 brown, 1 black, 4 brown, 8 black, 4 brown, 28 black, 4 brown, 8 black, 4 brown, 1 black, 2 brown
colour – weft : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Apron
number : D37.4
component : Whole
construction : Apron made in one piece with turned machine sewn edges on the hem and left side and a selvedge on the right side which is not turned. The top edge of the apron is gatherd and machine sewn into a waistband but the edges are left raw. There is evidence of previous stitching on the waistband, but it is unclear if this relates to the doll or not.
measurements : length 17cm x width 30.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven checked pattern fabric with double yarns in the warp direction.
pattern : check
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : All ends are doubled; repeat 10 white, 4 blue, 2 white, 2 red, 2 white, 4 blue.
colour – weft : Repeat; 10 white, 4 blue, 2 white, 2 red, 2 white, 4 blue.
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Waistband
construction : Narrow plain woven tape with unfinished ends, the bottom edge of the tape is folded back and the top of the apron is machine sewn to it. The tape is then folded back and tacked to itself in a different thread. The tape is then tied in a knot and bow at the back.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 28
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18
twist warp : S,2Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to turn the edges and attach the waistband, on the top and bobbin threads for the machine stitch and for hand stitch on the waistband.
technique 1 : machine sewn, hand sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch, running stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Old tacking stitches on the waistband which no longer have a function.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : tacking
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : mercerised?
microscopic analysis? : yes

item : Bedgown
number : D37.5
component : Whole
construction : Short bedgown made from piece of fabric which has been cut and shaped to create sleeves and create fullness at the hem. The sleeves are seamed under the arm and the joining of front and back is at the sides. The edges are turned and machine stitched but left unfinished. The cuffs are turned in but not sewn.
measurements : length 18cm x 21cm sleeve length 7cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven striped pattern print.
pattern : undyed ground with a pale purple warp stripe approx 0.3cm and then 3 thinner stripes (repeat)
technique 1 : printed, woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 32
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
colour – other : pale purple printing dye
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : used to construct the bedgown and turn the edges. The same thread as used in D 37.4 stitching 1
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Skirt
number : D37.6
component : Whole
construction : Skirt made in one piece with a machine sewn CB seam and an opening at the top of that seam. The hem turned twice is hand sewn. The top edge is machine sewn to a waistband tape and turned in to hide the raw edge.
measurements : length 20cm x inner circumference 48.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven fabric with wide weft stripes including the use of a fancy yarn and yellow weft face stripes made by weaving with double ends at each binding point.
pattern : weft stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 18
thread count picks / rows per cm : 18, (20 in yellow weft face stripe)
twist warp : Z
twist weft : All yarns Z, except the fine yellow Z,2S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : brown
colour – weft : repeat – 72 blue/green 2 yellow, 16 purple, 2 yellow, 6 green, 2 light brown, 2 green, 4 l brown, 2 d brown, 4 l brown, 4 d brown, 4 l brown, 2 d brown, 4 l brown, 2 green, 2 l brown, 6 green, 2 yellow, 16 purple, 20 yellow
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes
general observations : The light brown yarn is a fancy yarn with white and yellow slubs in it.

component : Waistband
construction : Narrow waistband tape, flattened out and machine stitched to right side of the skirt then turned in so it is not visible at the front. Ends are cut and fraying. Tied in a double knot and a bow at the back.
measurements : width 0.5cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 36
thread count picks / rows per cm : 22
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : undyed
colour – weft : undyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 1
construction : Machine stitch used to sew the CB seam in the petticoat and attach the waistband. The same thread as used in D37.4 stitching 1
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching 2
construction : Hand stitch used to turn the hem of the petticoat. Same thread as used for D37.3 stitching 2
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,4S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Underskirt 1
number : D37.7
component : Whole
construction : Underskirt made in one piece with a seam at the CB, the seam is finished and is left open at the top. The hem is turned but the edges are raw. The top of the skirt is gathered and sewn to a narrow waistband tape, with the tape on the inside and the edges unfinished. The tape is tied at the back in a bow, the ends are cut and frayed. All sewing is done by machine
measurements : length 13.5cm x inner circumference 39cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Twill weave with a raised surface and warp stripe used in a horizontal direction.
pattern : warp stripe
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : 2/2 twill
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 20
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : wool
fibre – warp : wool
colour – warp : repeat – 10 pink, 2 white, 2 blue, 4 pink, 2 white, 6 blue, 6 white
colour – weft : white
finish : Raised surface
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Waistband
construction : Narrow waistband tape, flattened out and machine stitched to inside of the underskirt. Ends are cut and fraying. Tied in a single loop bow at the back.
measurements : width 1cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 32
thread count picks / rows per cm : 16
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to construct the skirt, turn the hem and attach the waistband. The same thread as used in D37.4 stitching 1.
technique 1 : machine stitch
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Underskirt 2
number : D37.8
component : Whole
construction : Underskirt made in one piece with a seam at the CB, the seam is facing outwards and is left open at the top, the edges of the seam are turned under an caught in the single line of machine stitching. The hem is a selvedge, the top of the skirt is gathered and sewn to a narrow waistband tape, with the tape on the outside, It is tied into a bow at the back and the edges of the tape are cut and frayed.
measurements : length 17.5cm x inner circumference 44.5cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven fabric.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 22
twist warp : Z
twist weft : S
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : yes

component : Waistband
construction : Narrow waistband tape, flattened out and machine stitched to outside of the underskirt. Ends are cut and fraying. Tied in a bow at the back.
measurements : Width 1cm
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 30
thread count picks / rows per cm : 14
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to construct the skirt and attach the waistband. The same thread as used in D37.4 stitching 1.
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Chemise
number : D37.9
component : Whole
construction : Full length chemise made in one piece with seams under the arms and down the sides. There is a high neckline and short sleeves, each trimmed with lace. There is a slit cut in the CB from the neck down and the edges are fastened with a thread at the back of the neck. The hem is turned but not finished. All stitching is done by machine.
measurements : length 22.5cm x inner circumference 33cm x length of slit 8cm

component : Fabric 1
construction : Plain woven muslin.
technique 1 : woven
technique 2 : plain
thread count ends / wales per cm : 26
thread count picks / rows per cm : 22
twist warp : Z
twist weft : Z
fibre – warp : cotton
fibre – warp : cotton
colour – warp : white
colour – weft : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Lace
construction : Two bands of machine made lace used to trim the neckline and sleeve cuffs. A narrow band is used to trim the entire edge of the neckine and the cuffs and an additional, wider band is used at the front of the neckline but only extends as far as the shoulders.
measurements : Narrow band width 1.2cm wider band width 3cm
pattern : Floral design with looped edging using two different yarns.
technique 1 : lace
technique 2 : machine
twist yarn : finer yarn z spun thicker yarn Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Stitching
construction : Used to construct the chemise, turn the hem and attach the lace cuffs. The same thread as used in D37.4 stitching 1.
technique 1 : machine sewn
technique 2 : straight stitch
twist yarn : Z,3S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

component : Tie
construction : Thread used to attach both pieces of lace to the neckline and fasten the chemise. Tied in a bow.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : cotton
colour – warp : un-dyed
colour – weft : un-dyed
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

item : Stockings
number : D37.10
component : Whole
construction : Knee length stockings, hand knitted flat and sewn along the sole and up the back of the leg.
measurements : length 7cm
component : Fabric 1
construction : Two colour yarn used to construct the stockings
pattern : ribbed
technique 1 : knitting
technique 2 : 1/1 rib
thread count ends / wales per cm : 3
thread count picks / rows per cm : 6
twist yarn : Z,2S
material – other : wool
colour – other : green and white
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no
general observations : The knitting is quite stretched out and distorted.
component : Stitching 1
construction : Used to sew the stockings along the sole and up the back of the leg. The same thread as used in D37.3 stitching 2.
technique 1 : hand sewn
technique 2 : running stitch
twist yarn : Z,4S
material – other : cotton
colour – other : black
finish : none
microscopic analysis? : no

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